TsukuBlog A Local Perspective on Life in Tsukuba, Ibaraki, Japan.

Convenience Stores and Suprmarkets Promote an Osaka Custom Pointing Kanto Area Setsubun Celebrations in a NEW DIRECTION! (again)

By Avi Landau

Convenience stores and supermarkets have had a huge impact on Japan and they play a major role in the shaping of contemporary Japanese culture and lifestyles. And though in many ways it could be said that these stores are helping to bring about the END of TRADITIONAL JAPAN, it could also be said that they are unlikely repositories of certain aspects of Japanese culture , always displaying traditional sweets of the season and never missing a chance to promote and sell foods and other paraphanalia related to traditional events and festivals. The quest for new products to sell has also led to some innovative ideas which have spiced up certain traditional events. An example of this can be seen if you go to any combini ( convenience store) or supermarket (supa) in the 3 or 4 weeks leading up to February 3 , which is the day on which the SESTUBUN festival is celebrated.

Sestubun (節分) , is sometimes called the BEAN THROWING FESTIVAL in English. This is because the main feature of the event is the throwing of soy beans , as a way of excorsizing evil and bad luck. In homes with small children, the man of the house usually dons a paper DEMON MASK (available at combinis and supas) on the evening of the 3rd, and the children proceed to hurl the beans at him crying out – ONI WA SOTO ( Demon out! ). They then continue throwing beans in various directions, shouting FUKU WA UCHI- good fortune in ! Family members then go on to eat the same number of beans as their age. This ritual is called MAME MAKI (bean throwing), and it is also performed at various temples and shrines around Japan. It is usual for adults who are in their UNLUCKY AGES(especially men of 42 and women of 33) to attend these bean throwing events as a form of YAKU YOKE (purification for those of unlucky age). Famous temples and shrines often invite celebrities (sumo wrestlers, movie stars etc) to hurl the beans, and these scenes are often televised. Just watch the news on the night of the 3rd (the night of this year`s mame maki).

Nearly all convenience stores and supermarkets have for the past few weeks been displaying a wide array of demon masks and soy bean packages .

Another custom, though far less popular these days, is the the posting of a sardine head fit onto thorny leaves called hiiragi on the front door. This is done to keep evil and bad fortune away. It is believed that the foul odor of the fish and the uninviting thorns should be effective in keeping any demons OUT. Supermarkets, including the one in the basement of Tsukuba`s Seibu Department Store have been promoting sardines for the making of these protective wreaths which are called YAIKAGASHI. Instead of sardines, other strong smaelling object have also sometimes been used- garlic, welsh onions (negi) or even singed strands of hair!

Hiiragi, and especially bean throwing have been the generally accepted, standard ways of celebrating setsubun throughout Japan.

However, in recent years combinis and supas have been vigorously promoting an ADDITIONAL WAY of celebrating setsubun. Well… new to all people who have never lived in Osaka(and other parts of KANSAI).

I`m talking of course of the large sushi rolls called EHO-MAKI (恵方巻), which can be seen in promotional posters all over town. These oversized nori-maki (they look like quite a mouthfull) are to be eaten by each family member, in silence, while facing the lucky direction of this year(according to the traditional Japanese almanac). Though most people in Tsukuba had never heard of this ritual until recently, many now reserve their EHO-MAKI weeks before setsubun. More purchase them on the day of the festival.

Eating Eho maki while facing the lucky direction ( this year- 2012, it is North by North-West), is in fact a custom, though not very old, which originated(along with so many other great business ideas) in Osaka. Osakan friends living in Tsukuba tell me that they had faithfully eaten their setsubun sushi-rolls every year of their lives, and had imagined that ALL Japanese did the same. Some Tsukubans of Osakan birth used to have Eho Maki sent to them each year by their mothers, before they became available nation-wide.

Nobody Ive spoken to could actually explain the significance of the sushi-rolls, but my feeling is that by facing the lucky direction, and slowly and silently taking the EHO -MAKI in, the good energies of this years lucky direction are absorbed by the antennae-like roll. Of course, these sushi- rolls are also chock-full of nutritious fillings (these vary according to price), including egg, seafood etc., to help keep the family healthy through the last weeks (or months!) of cold weather.

Of course, the most important point for families is that the EHO MAKI are fun and DELICIOUS!

A sticker at a convenience store indicates the LUCKY DIRECTION for the year 2012- North by Northwest

Let me tell you a little more about setsubun. This word (節分) in fact means SEASONAL TURNING POINT which then means that traditionally there were four setsubuns in Japan, one for the beginning of each season. Nowadays however, only the day marking the coming of spring is acknowledged by the general public with special rituals. Though it is still quite cold,the first day of spring (rishun) is on February 4th according to the traditional calendar. Before the Japanese converted their calendar to the one used by Europeans, a day began at sunset on the previous evening. That is why setsubun is celebrated on the evening of the 3rd. This was considered to be the start of the next day- RISHUN.

The ancient Chinese believed that these seasonal turning points were times when the world and its inhabitants were susceptible to attacks by evil forces. For protection they would carry out a ceremony which the Japanese call TSUINA( 追儺 ), in which ritual bows and arrows were used to excorsize demons and bad fortune.

This ceremony was introduced to Japan as a way of trying to stop an epidemic during the reign of Emperor Mommu (697-707), and during the Heian Period (794-1192), it was carried out anually in the Court, with bow and arrow, on the Traditional New Years Eve.

During the Muromachi Period(1392-1573), the use of bow and arrow gave way to the throwing of beans (though some temples, especially in Kyoto, use the old excorsizing techniques), and the custom began to filter down to the masses. Bean throwing on the eve of RISHUN became a standard part of Japanese life in the Edo Period (1600-1868), and remains so to this day.

The use of beans is probably related to the DEMON EXTERMINATING CEREMONY (鬼退治の際, oni taiji no sai) held at Kurama Yama , Kyoto. According to a legend, the God Bishamon recommended throwing beans into the eyes, as an effective way of combating demons. Demon Eyes can be written with the characters 魔目(which is read - ma me, a homophone for beans) and this sounds the same as 魔滅、which means DEMISE OF THE DEMON.

Also as anyone with an interest in traditional Indian food might know, beans are believed to have special life force powers.

Another interesting point is that the reason you eat the same number of beans as your age (and one for good luck) is that before the Japanese calendar changed to the Gregorian, February was the Month of New Years (usually) and thus all Japanese considered themselves one year older (did you know that the money given to children on New Years called TOSHI DAMA, is not New Years money(toshi can mean year) , but AGE MONEY (toshi can also mean age). Thus people celebrated their BIRTHDAY by eating their ages in beans.

For seniors who dont want to or CAN`T eat dozens of beans, it is customary to put their age worth into a tea cup, pour tea over it and drink the tea.

Eating these beans is also considered to be protection against illness and bad luck.

If you would like to celebrate setsubun this year, the convenience store or supermarket will provide you with everything you need. Bean throwing should begin after the sun goes down. A parent puts the demon mask on and goes to the front door. The demon should stand outside and be pelted by the kids who cry ONI WA SOTO.Then throw beans inside the house shouting FUKU WA UCHI !. I once brought a mask and beans with me to New York and did mame maki with my nieces and nephew. It went over very well. If youve got kids, Id say- give it a try

The Belief in Myoken- the Deified Polar Star and Big Dipper- thrives at Tsukuba`s Hokuto-Ji Temple! Its big festival is THIS COMING SUNDAY (Jan.29)!

By Avi Landau

The ancients found significance in just about everything they saw in the world around them. But in the quest for gaining an understanding of the workings of FATE, man has probably most frequently and consistently turned his eyes to the STARS and other HEAVENLY BODIES, whose positions and movements were often believed to be closely linked with what happened down here on terra firma.

As certain civilizations became more developed, they were able to amass extremely detailed data which led to the creation of sophisticated systems of astrology (which I guess could be said to be the foundation of modern astronomy).

India and China were two such civilizations. Their complicated beliefs connected with the stars　(some scholars believe these originated back in ancient Babylonia), were introduced to Japan along with Buddhism- especially the Esoteric Type (密教, Mikkyo)- of the Tendai (天台宗) and Shingon (真言宗) Sects.

And since the Shingon Sect of Buddhism has long predominated in many of the hamlets which are now part of Tsukuba City, it is only natural that certain ceremonies related to star worship should still exist around here.

Many DO find it surprising, however, to hear that the Hokuto-Ji Temple (北斗寺),　in the rustic (and rusting) hamlet of KURIHARA, is the most important of Japan`s three great temples dedicated to the Pole Star and the Seven Stars of the Big Dipper(三大北斗)- in the form of the Deity MYOKEN-BOSATSU (妙見菩薩). In fact, when this temple, usually referred to by the locals as MYOKEN-SAMA, holds its STAR FESTIVAL (hoshi matsuri,星祭) on the seventh day of the first month according to the lunar calendar each year ( this year Jan. 29th, 2012), devotees come from far and wide.

It is not difficult to imagine why the polar star , and the nearby constellation of the Big Dipper, would have gained such a prominent role in religions in which astrology played a role. These are the MOST CONSTANT of the heavenly bodies, and to the long term observer on Earth, it would seem as if everything else in the sky was moving around them. For this reason they could even be seen as symbols of the Emperor himself (whether Chinese, or Japanese), around whom their respective societies were supposed to revolve. These stars were also crucial for navigation, and the Japanese priests who safely made the journey to and back from China must have felt they owed a debt of honor to them.

Praying to, or making offerings to the Pole Star were believed to be efficacious in keeping peace in the realm and in preventing disasters. During the Heian Period ceremonies related to the Pole Star were held for such puposes at certain major temples (ie. Mii-Dera, 三井寺 and　Onjoji, 園城寺).

The Imperial Court also held similar rites focusing on Myoken in the Hokutosai (北斗際) which was carried out by Yin-Yang diviners (Omyoshi).

In the year 1153, the Retired Emperor Toba prayed to Myoken for relief from an eye ailment ( Myoken literally means Divine sight). When a cure was in fact achieved, it became common to pray to this deity when one suffers from eye trouble ( and interestingly since the name Myoken could also be taken to mean -LOOK DIVINE, as in beautiful, many show business people have been devotees over the years).

As you can imagine, sailors would also be great devotees of these stars which helped them find their ways.

During Japan`s middle ages Myoken became a popular Deity among the Samurai, as the Pole Star was believed to be crucial in determining the results of battle.

As time passed farmers took to praying to the Pole Star for good harvests and merchants for success in business.

Of great importance is also the fact that the priest Nichiren, the founder of the Nichiren Sect of Buddhism, believed that he had been helped from trouble after praying to Myoken. Because of this, Myoken devotion was taken up with enthusiasm by members of that sect and to this day, at Nichiren Temples, you will more than likely find a Myoken Hall within their precincts.

The subject of Myoken, however, is extremely complex, and it is not my intention here to give you any more than this brief ( and inadequate) explanation of the deity ( which after the Meiji Period`s forced separation of Buddhism and Shintoism was enshrined in Shinto Shrines as the God Ame no Minakanushi no Mikoto 天御中主尊）.

I would like instead to go onto a brief introduction to Tsukuba`s Hokuto-Ji Temple and its Hoshi Matsuri.

According to extant documents, the Hokuto-Ji Temple was founded in the year 810 by the priest Saisen (最仙) for the purpose of praying for the peace and prosperity of the nation through the pole star and the big dipper. Like with many other older temples, however, the history of Hokuto-Ji is quite complex, having moved location ( within the same general area) several times for various reasons, before returning to the hamlet of Kurihara and its ORIGINAL location in 1659.

Some might be (very) surprised to hear that at that time, during the Edo Period ( 1600-1868), Kurihara, which sits by the Sakura River, and has good soil and water for rice production, was partly TENRYO (天領), that is, under direct control of the Shogun, and was ruled through the trusted Hatamoto Family- The Hori. One of the last of the Horis to rule Kurihara, played an important role in negotations with European powers just before the Meiji Restoration ( this will be the subject of a future post) but committed ritual suicide (seppuku) when he was told that his idea of a bilateral treaty with Prussia was not what the Shigunate wanted.

Kurihara is also notable for the fact that about 1,200 years ago it sent some fabric made of hemp  to the capital as a form tax payment. Such linen used to pay taxes was called CHOFU. The original fabric with an india ink inscription indicating its place of origin is kept at the Shosoin Imperial Store-house in Nara ( and conicidentally, through Feb. 19th 2012 there will be an exhibit at the Municipal Museum in Tsuchiura displaying a piece of cloth which was also sent as a tax payment more than a millenium ago- it has come back home after all these years and is worth seeing!)

 

The temple holds two major annual events a year, each based on the lunar calendar ( they usually occur sometime in February and August ), and as I have mentioned before, besides all the Kurihara locals showing up for these events and other Tsukubans, some devotees of Myoken, make the journey to Tsukuba from much farther afield. Especially for the Hoshi Matsuri.

Let me tell you about the event as I experienced it last year.

To tell the truth, since I live so near ( only about 5 minutes by car), I went to the temple several times to check on the progress of the preparations which were being made, which  mostly consisited of cleaning the Myogen Hall and preparing all the ritual instruments to be used for the next days ceremonies.

The next morning, when I got up and looked out the window, I found that there were near blizzard-like conditions. I had to confirm whether or not my work would be cancelled or not, but I KNEW the festival would be on. Before I headed off for the university, I checked in at the temple and found the TEKIYA ( festival stall vendors) struggling to set up there booths.

I also found that already early in the morning, and despite the weather, that dozens of the neighborhood men, who help run the event, as well as several Shingon priests brought in from other temples, were all busy and that some Buddhist ceremonies were already underway. The scene was a bit depressing since there were no visitors at the temple yet- only priests, staff and especially VENDORS!

But first I had to get to work. I was able to get back to Hokuto-Ji at my lunch break- and THANK MY LUCKY STARS- the snow had stopped and it had turned into a beautiful day!

I made my way through the row of ROTEN ( outdoor shops). And let me stress that these were not the kinds of stalls that you find at major festivals like Matsuri Tsukuba- these were like something out of another age- with flamboyant sales talks and performances. Sellers of traditional medicines, citrus fruit, dried persimons, bonsai, handmade farming implements and brooms, pickles and dried fish. A man selling amulets and almanacs, wearing traditional garb was tryng to attract customers using a ventriloquism act.

All the while, among the hawking , eating , and good cheer, the priests had a sacred fire ( GOMA TAKI) going, and devotees were continually plying up into the Myoken Hall to pray- and from what I learned from my own unoffical survey, most of these prayers were for business success, and good harvest.

After offering prayers, most worshipers bought one of the many different Myoken amulets which were being sold by the temple which was staffed by what seemed to be all the adult males in the neighborhood.

The priest would be at it till about 4:30. The vendors, started packing up soon after that ( I came back AGAIN after work!).

With full stomach, arms laden down with my purchases ( including an onioroshi style radish grater!), after having chatted with some old friends and having had the pleasure of making new acquaintance, I headed for home with the drumming , chanting and mystery, with all the HISTORY ringing in my ears. As I approached my front door, I remembered to take take a short look at the stars, twinkling in the crisp , wintery, night-sky