Many older women I have spoken to in Tsukuba can remember painstakingly removing the seeds from the delicate pods as children to make toy noise makers which were blown into -- something kids today probably don't have the patience or desire to do!

The beautiful hozuki plants, the excitement in the air, and the cool tingling of countless wind-chimes makes for a perfect summer excursion -- and you can get yourself PLENTY of merit to boot!

Alas, tomorrow is a weekday. But for those who can't make it to Asakusa's Sensoji, a final look can be had at the beautiful hozuki arrangement in the lobby of the Okura Hotel at Tsukuba Center. The lobby flowers are changed every Thursday at the Okura, so you had better get there early. I've been going EVERY DAY!

In contrast to the always tasteful floral inventions which can be encountered at the hotel, the managers of the Tsukuba Center Complex have put up a tacky display of poster-sized photos, cheaply framed, of VIPs who have visited the center over the past 20 years. You might imagine that these would be shots of great scientists or scholars, as many have been through Tsukuba over the years. The organizers of this particular display, however, have selected only pictures of royalty: the Showa Emperor, the current Emperor and his wife as Crown Prince and Princess, the Kings of Belgium and Sweden, the Princess of Thailand, Margaret Thatcher, etc.

Seems a bit out of touch with what Tsukuba is supposed to be about, but these unartfully hung posters can't help help but make one stop a moment, have a look at each one and wonder where all the time goes.

This day in mid-August has come to be accepted as the day of remembrance for those who perished in that war, which actually began with Japan's incursion into Manchuria in 1931 and its brutal ten-year struggle to gain the upper-hand in China before fatefully deciding to attack the United States. August 15 has also become a day of controversy, especially because of visits to Tokyo's Yasukuni Shrine (靖国神社, Yasukuni Jinja).

Yasukuni Shrine is where the souls of all soldiers who have died fighting for the Imperial Cause (since the struggle for the Meiji Restoration began in 1853) are enshrined as Kami (Gods). Japanese soldiers were indoctrinated to believe that if they died in battle they would live on forever at Yasukuni. Many of the last letters of soldiers and especially Kamikaze pilots to their parents end with a "Lets meet at Yasukuni!"

You might ask what the problem would be for people to visit such a shrine, as most countries have similar ceremonies commemorating their war dead. Well, the problem (especially for Japan's Asian neighbors) is that among the millions enshrined are numerous convicted war criminals. Thus visits to the shrine by Japanese politicians arouse great anger in China and Korea (and among many Japanese). This foreign criticism then arouses the anger of Japan's Right-Wingers (u-yoku, 右翼), who feel that Japan has bowed to hypocritical foreign pressure and has had to conceal its true self. This cycle of accusations has made Yasukuni Shrine the center point of the struggle over how the history of WWII should be perceived. It has subsequently become a symbol and rallying point for Japan's numerous and very vocal right-wing groups.

These days there is little talk of The War in Japan, and in fact most foreign residents are surprised and disappointed to find that there is almost no political discussion of ANY SORT in this country. Topics which lead to an expression of one's true feelings or opinions (except for which foods you like or dislike) or any controversial subjects are usually avoided. For that reason many foreigners living in Japan LONG FOR the excitement of a good debate, and of hearing some heartfelt political opinions, even those that might be SERIOUSLY DISAGREED WITH.

Spending an August 15th at Yasukuni Shrine (as I usually do) provides a sufficient dose of opinions and political stimulation to last for a long, long while. Also, for those interested in Ibaraki, there is also strong relevance, as the xenophobic Emperor worship which had Japan in its grip for decades, and now lives on in numerous fringe groups, was originally promoted by the Mito Clan (Mito is now Ibaraki's capital) whose sponsorship of Mito Studies (Mito-Gaku,水戸学) provided the intellectual framework which eventually led to the Meiji Restoration and a whole slew of extreme slogans (the most famous being SONNO JO-I (尊王攘夷, Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians!)).

Let me tell you what my day was like.

I took TX to Kita-Senju, changed to the Hibiya Line and then changed again at Kayabacho to the Tozai Line and got out at Kudanshita, which is the nearest station to the shrine. Heading to exit no. 1, I first came face to face with the reality of the day and the occasion. A group of young riot police (kidotai) in full battle-gear. I headed up the escalator and onto street level which was very hot, both temperature-wise and emotionally. The street up Kudanzaka, towards the shrine was crowded and excited. There were many activists who had set up booths on the side walk. They were handing out leaflets and asking for signatures for various petitions. It was like being at the Student Union Building of an American or European university, except for where at those institutions students tend to push liberal or left-wing causes, these activists were all decidedly leaning to the right or far right.

Mostly, this was not expressed in a personal way, and I, a foreigner, was given pamphlets (even one demanding that political rights not be granted to foreign residents in Japan!), asked for my signature (which I politely refused) and was patiently and passionately told about each particular cause (after I showed interest). One Watanabe-san provided me with painstaking details about what he was gathering signatures for. He told me how, at the end of the Battle of Okinawa, hundreds of villagers on a small island had committed suicide. After the war, survivors claimed that they were ordered to do so by the Japanese military commanders on the island, and they demanded compensation. The court ruled in favor of the islanders. Mr. Watanabe, 63 years later, was standing in the hellish heat all day long trying to get signatures to CLEAR THE NAMES OF THE OFFICERS IN CHARGE! Other groups were calling for the independence from China of various regions including Taiwan and Tibet.

Of course the police presence was enormous and you could not help but feel sorry for the young guys who were all padded and helmeted in the heat. The road which goes up the slope parallel to the shrine was lined with the loud-speaker trucks (gaisensha) of the various right-wing groups who had gathered for the occasion. As I entered the main worshipper's path to the shrine I also started to see the Yasukuni COS-PLAY people, those who don Imperial Army costumes and paraphernalia. They sit in the shade on the side of the path, sometimes singing old war songs (gunka) to the accompaniment of a harmonica. Also, uniformed u-yoku sit in groups drinking, singing, posing and posturing, before or after having prayed before the shrine.

It is important to remember, however, that among all the tens of thousands who came to the shrine on that day, 99% were typical looking Japanese people, of all ages, who came to quietly, and as quickly as possible, pay their respects to the fallen dead. There are many elderly people who probably lost dear ones in the war. These people even come in groups, by the busload. The extremists and other fringe-elements who end up being featured in the media are a tiny but VERY NOTICEABLE minority.

As I passed through the main gate of the shrine, the line to reach the Main Hall began and those who came to worship had to stand in line for a LONG TIME, fully exposed to the sun. Nobody was complaining, but I couldn't help but wonder why they couldn't put up some sort of canopy for some shade.

Though tourists and journalists like to photograph the costumed, posturing right-wing cranks who line-up in front of the shrine (with the general public), the real powerful and shadowy u-yoku groups, in their very expensive suits and haircuts (or shaved heads) can be seen through the wooden grill to the right of the main hall. Within the confines of the shrine itself they are given food and are taken into the inner sanctuaries for purification and blessing before they join in singing KIMIGAYO, Japan's national anthem. These characters seemed much more ominous to me than the riff-raff u-yoku hanging out in the front.

This inner-hall ceremony is open to anyone, including foreigners, who want to pay the fee. The most celebrated visitor this year was Tokyo's outspoken governor Shintaro Ishihara who was greeted with cheers and flag waving. I asked bystanders by if Prime Minister Fukuda would be coming to the shrine and they disgustedly told me that he wouldn't be coming.

As usual, I stopped to look at the monuments to the various animals who died in Japan's various war efforts. The dog, the horse, and the pigeon. There were offerings for the animals -- dog food, carrots, water, rice balls -- but much fewer than previous years.

Also drawing the attention of many Japanese visitors was the monument to Radhabinod Pal, the only dissenting judge at the Tokyo War Crimes Trial.

At 2:30, about a kilometer from the shrine's Main Hall, a demonstration by groups who oppose the Emperor system and militarism was scheduled to be held. The right-wingers who just earlier had been hanging out in the shade, were now ready to rumble. When the police blocked off the road so that their loud-speaker trucks could not pass, pandemonium broke loose. I had imagined that nearby the shrine the u-yoku would not use the blaring speakers and especially not use foul language while so many worshippers were nearby. But logical thinking is a not a strong-point of these guys. All the loudspeakers went at it at once. I HAVE NEVER HEARD SUCH A DIN (it was like 50 rock concerts at once!). Though I have always felt there was some cooperation between the police and u-yoku, I was surprised by the barrage of insults hurled at the police and riot squad, for all of Tokyo to hear. I was even more surprised to hear how many bystanders, mostly suit-wearing salary-men shouted support to the right-wingers.

As I walked over toward the demonstration there were many more Caucasian foreigners who had come to gawk and take pictures. The right-wing groups were blocked off by phalanxes of riot police, but that did not stop them from using their loudspeakers. Any overexcited u-yoku who wanted to show his dedication to the Emperor by beating up an anti-war activist was held back or tackled by the police.

The real trouble happened after the demonstration, as the left-wingers (sa-yoku) started to leave. As they got further away from the allotted demonstration site, there was less protection and some thugs were waiting to beat them up. Interestingly, none of the elderly or female protesters were attacked. The u-yoku would pick out the able-bodied men and proceed to gang up on them.

The leftists were no softies, and actually held their ground. The police of course intervened, and finally showed their bias shouting at the protesters to just go the hell home.

After spending so many hours in the heat without sitting down, I was physically exhausted and the real battling I had seen had me shaken. On the train back home I certainly had a lot to think about and had some thoughts about what I had experienced. This entry is getting much longer than I planned it to be however, so I will leave them for another time. What do you think? Please let me know.

5 Comments

• At August 17, 2008, Dan Waldhoff wrote:

  Aloha Avi,

  As a Judge in the Tokyo War Crimes Trial (the movie version) I know that the winner writes the rules and history.

  As a coward (in real life) I avoid any situation in which I might take the stray bullet (in the USA) or punch (in Japan) when things get out of control - and Yasukuni seems to be building to that kind of situation. It is certainly becoming a most highly charged place on August 15.

  I observe that much of Japan's foreign and domestic policy seems to be formulated in Washington and can appreciate that many Japanese might disapprove of external pressures. I think that the Class A War Criminals at Yasukuni, regardless of what they did and how bad they might have been, are and will remain dead and thus not likely to trouble anyone again except when August 15 rolls around next year.

  Thanks for your interesting report!

  Dan

• At August 18, 2008, Shaney wrote:

  Great article, Avi. I was interested to hear about the animals that are enshrined there.

• At August 19, 2008, Avi wrote:

  Dan, You always come to mind when I think about the Tokyo Tribunals! The DVD version of PRIDE seemed to be selling well at The Yasukuni Shrine gift shop. I hope you are getting royalties.

  It would be intertesting if you could write about your experience of being involved in the making of that film.I remember you telling me how Scott Wilson(who played prosecutor Joseph Keenan) was not very much fun to work with.

  What was director Shunya Itoh like?

  One thing that I realized years after seeing the film was that

  star Masahiko Tsugawa,must be an old friend of outspoken Right Wing Tokyo Governor Ishihara.His film debut in 1956 was in the classic KURUTTA KAJITSU(CRAZED FRUIT) starring beside Ishihara`s late great brother Yujiro. The then youthful governor makes a cameo appearance, AND he wrote the script.

  You should watch this film ,which even back then has Ishihara warning about the evils of westernization. After you see it, watch A Place In the Sun, with Elizabeth Taylor. You`ll be in for a surprise. Anyway Tsuguwa and Ishihara go way back.

  Its always puzzling that Japanese Right-Wingers are so eager to have Hideki Tojo`s reputation rehabilitated. He was a rich and powerful man whose incompetence, poor judgement, and especially ambition and PRIDE led to the deaths of millions(of common Japanese) and the destruction of the country. More importantly from the standpoint of the Emperor-Revering Rightists should be that

  he greatly ENDANGERED the life of the Emperor through his policies. If it were not for MacArthurs obssessive Anti-Communism and desire to use Japan to help stop expansion of the USSR, the Emperor would surely have been tried as well.

  Also, as a proper Japanese warrior, he should have taken his own life, thus avoiding trial and atoning for his failure. He even failed at that.

  I think that if the Revisionists want to make a stronger point, instead of making Tojo into a victim ,a film should be made about the Americans who would have been tried as war criminals if Japan had won the war. Leading the list in my opinion is Curtis Lemay, who pushed through the policy of aerial bombing which was devised with THE INTENTION TO KILL AS MANY CIVILIANS AS POSSIBLE. He did a fine job of that.

  Ironically he was decorated by the Showa Emperor for his services.

  Im waiting for your ON THE SET notes, Dan.

  Aloha

• At August 19, 2008, Avi wrote:

  Yes, Shaney, it is interesting and also VERY MOVING for me. Especially how people bring offerings of food and water.I was surprised that none of the major English language guide books to Tokyo mention the animal monuments in their entries on Yasukuni. I think it is worthy of note even amidst all the controversy of the shrine.

  Have you ever noticed the memorials for sacrificed experimental animals in Tsukuba? They are also well attended to and regularly given offerings.

  Check out Elmer Veldkamps`s recent presentation at a workshop at Yale. Its entitled- Animal Monuments and Memorials

  in pre-war Japan and post war developments. It might be interesting for you.

  I think that it would be interesting for him to come to Tsukuba and see how the spirits ofs animal are appealed or consoled to in local folk customs.

• At August 20, 2008, Anna H wrote:

  Hi Avi-san,

  Your articles are always full of interesting stuff.

  A lot of it new even to an oldtimer like myself.

  I heard about memorials for animals used in experiments

  but I never attened one.

  In my house now we have a nest of swallows. the mom & dad is feeding their young ones and they are not at all afraid of us anymore and we get to have a glimpse of the tiny tiny

  birds. My father in law absolutely belives that having their nest at our house will bring us luck and politely but sternly ignores the neighbours complaint about the birds being unsanitary.....anyway, just wanted to say that I really enjoy your articles.

  Anna Hamakoji

The flower has a long history in these islands and  many scholars actually assert that it is indigenous to Japan and in fact introduced to China from here. After centuries of breeding, numerous varieties have been developed and new colors, pinks and whites, brought out. By taking a look at the etymology of the Japanese name AJISAI, we can see that in earlier times the flowers were mainly blue, as the sounds used to make up the name originally meant a GATHERING OF BLUES (aji-from atsu (集まる) or gather , and ai (藍), indigo blue.

Hydrangea have another Japanese name, however, nanahenge (七変化), or seven transformations, which derives from the flower's unique characteristic. The colors of the petals change according to the chemical make-up of the soil! This feature has given the flower rich symbolic meaning in Japanese art and poetry -- especially to represent a fickle and changing heart. It is because of this characteristic too, that hydrangea were shunned by the warrior class in the feudal period, because for them, changing colors, or by extension loyalties, was anathema .

For Westerners, however, hydrangea can be seen as a symbol of silent devotion, as its scientific name, otaksa, appears to refer to Otaki-San, a woman from Nagasaki's pleasure quarter, who was the  mistress of the German naturalist P.F. von Siebold, who went on to introduce ajisai to Europe .

One more point. These flowers are to be looked at and NOT EATEN. Recently, there was a nationally reported case of food poisoning which occurred down the road from my house in Tsukuba at the curious and pricey Italian restaurant Toeimon Sakae. The chef, in keeping with the season-conscious aesthetics of Japanese cooking(despite this being an Italian eatery), garnished a dish with the very IN SEASON leaves of hydrangea. These were subsequently consumed by the unsuspecting  diners.

This resulted in what must have been an unforgettable scene, right out of Monty Python. You see, the leaves of ajisai have always been used to induce vomiting, especially when poisons were consumed. Imagine then, the eight customers wretching uncontrollably, spewing out their expensive dinners onto the antique furniture and tatami mats (this restaurant is in a magnificent thatched roof farm house!).Surprisingly,the penalty for this chef`s oversight was a mere one-day suspension of business. 

 while you're out there enjoying the last few AJISAI DAYS remember: LOOK BUT DON'T TASTE.

The trip was organized by the International Students Center of the University of Tsukuba. It was a 3-days hop to the three (3) prefectures of Tohoku namely, Iwate, Miyagi and Yamagata.

The first prefecture we went to was Iwate. Take a peek at the photos I took. (1. Inside a restaurant 2. One of the temples in Chusonji compund 3. Miyazawa Kenji Museum)

Next destination was Matsushima, Miyagi prefecture. (1. Akiu Ootaki 2. Inside a museum 3. During the bay cruise)

And the last one was Yamagata prefecture. (1. Inside a museum 2. Yamagata ken souvenir shop 3. Cherry fuits)

Although the trip was a little bit tiresome by just sitting inside the bus, the tour guide's efforts were worth mentioning, trying to be awake and genki (energetic and lively) all the time while all of us are dead tired slumbering in our seats.

The full of memorable stories museums in Iwate, the wonderful splashing waters of the Ootaki in Miyagi, and the tasteful cherries in Yamagata, all made the 3 days trip worth treasuring.

For the rest of the photos in bigger resolution, you may view them in my Zooomr album.

======
dimaks blogs at skamid.com

2 Comments

• At July 13, 2007, Vivian wrote:

  the cherries look absolutely scrumptious!

• At July 13, 2007, dimaks wrote:

  Too bad, nobody is allowed to bring a fukuro and stock some in for a bring home :) You got no option but the omeyage shops across the road.

Most of the year, if you pass through the center of the quaint, though rusting and run-down old town of Makabe, you are unlikely to see a single soul walking about. That is why it is surprising to go there in February, the coldest month of the year, and find the streets filled with throngs of excited visitors wandering from old shop to old shop and old house to old house. What are all these people doing, sometimes even in the rain ad sleet ? Well, eating, drinking (the local sake!), shopping, taking in the dozens of historical buildings, and most prominently, OOHING and AAHING at the dazzling variety of antique Hina Doll sets which are proudly displayed by local residents from February 4 to March 4th. There are about 200 of these family heirlooms, set up for your viewing pleasure, at shops and homes around the city center, and they have proven very successful, as part of the city-promoted Hina Matsuri Doll Festival, in bringing Makabe BACK TO LIFE, even if just for four winter weeks each year, for the past nine years

Though the town can be a bit depressing in the way that TIME SEEMS TO HAVE PASSED IT BY (a by-pass road has diverted traffic from the city center, the old Tsukuba Railroad, which ran from Tsuchiura to Iwase with a station in Makabe has gone out of service, and the stone workers who have made Makabe Stone-Ware famous throughout Japan now have to compete with much cheaper imports from Korea and China), Makabe is ALWAYS a fascinating place to visit, with an old castle ruin, several noteworthy shrines and temples, an almost unchanged early-20th century townscape, dozens of stone works shops displaying their sometimes bizarre wares, an 800 year old bell foundry (!), and its completely different view (as compared with Tsukuba) of Mt Tsukuba and the mountains behind it, Mt Ashio and Mt Kaba. Despite these formidable attractions, in Japan of the Heisei Era, Makabe is far off the beaten tourist path — except, of course, when the calendar comes round to February (and the first 3 days of March), and the local residents bring out their old dolls — a testament to Makabes’s GOLDEN YEARS from the late Edo Period to mid-Showa, when its merchants could afford to splurge on extravagant Hina Doll sets to celebrate their female offspring and pray for their growth, good health and happy marriage.

 Makabe in fact thrived for centuries, first as a castle town established in the late Heian Period under the Makabe-Lords which ruled until just after the battle of Sekigahara (1600) and the assertion of Tokugawa Family hegemony over Japan. The town was then ruled by the Asano Family (mostly doing the ruling from Kasama, however), whose most famous member was Asano Takuminokami (of the 47 Ronin story fame). Hence, the fine temples and shrines in the town and surrounding area.

 During the Edo Period (1600-1868), as the merchants prospered, so did the situation of Hina Doll makers and the dolls themselves. Originally, having been tiny paper or straw figurines which were wiped against a girl’s body to remove impurities, and then cast off, like scape-goats into a river or the sea, the dolls used on the Girls’ Day Festival (Momo no Sekku ) evolved over time into sublime works of art, at first affordable only for the nobility and upper-rung samurai. As the merchant class grew richer, they too were able to buy the dolls, which in their fullest sets portray a prince and princess with their retinue and all the wedding trappings. The custom of putting out Hina dolls for the few weeks before the 3rd day of the 3rd month (now March 3rd), ended up becoming nearly universal. Instead of having these dolls cast-off into water, as the more primitive prototypes were in the old days, they were cast (gently of course) back into their boxes on the day after the festival. Families who did not do this were considered to be endangering their daughters’ chances of a successful marriage.

In Makabe today, you will be able to see several doll sets from the Edo Period ( 1600-1868). Visiting during the Hina Matsuri will also give you an opportunity to enter and photograph some VERY OLD shops and homes. At some residences, visitors are invited into the family compounds and even into the old KURA (storehouses). The presence of two sake breweries which provide free tasting samples give you the chance to  add a little extra ZIP to your doll viewing experience, if you are not driving , of course.

 You can get to Makabe by car in about 40 minutes from central Tsukuba. Head north to Route 41. As you leave the Tsukuba City limits you will start to see the stone works on both sides of the road (and one curious HANIWA shop, selling large recreations of ancient earthen-ware figurines). You can park at the Sakuragawa City Office ( Makabe is now part of Sakuragawa City). Another option is to take the special buses operating for the festival (recommended for those who plan on tasting SAKE) which leave from the Tsukuba Center bus terminal. The earliest buses leave at 9:00 and 9:30. Roundtrip fare is 1500 yen. This year some other cities in Ibaraki have been trying to copy Makabe’s idea by holding similar month-long events. In the future, it seems that most of the old towns of Ibaraki will be getting DOLLED-UP for February. I hope, however, that a visit to Makabe during the Hina Matsuri might lead to further appreciation of this all too overlooked neighbor of ours. Have a look at some of Makabe’s places of interest at the Sakuragawa City Homepage ( which has English on it):

http://www.city.sakuragawa.lg.jp/

And for more on Hina Dolls and the evolution of the Hina Festival ( MOMO NO SEKKU), read my articles:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2009/03/where-are-the-real-blossoms-at-peach-festival-time/

http://blog.alientimes.org/2008/03/tsukubans-in-no-rush-to-pack-up-hina-dolls/

Some more of Makabe`s spectacular Hina Dolls

See: Article on Amabiki Kannon in Alien Times

1 Comments

• At May 9, 2007, TsukuBlog » Peacock at Amabiki Kannon wrote:

  [...] Amabiki Kannon [...]

Annual Azabu Juban Open Air Ceramic Exhibition
Dates: March 18 (Wed) to 24 (Tue), weather permitting.
Time: 10:00am to 6:00pm
Venue: Patio Juban

“We would like to introduce to you the City of Kasama. It is one of the historical ceramics towns nearest from Tokyo, about 130km north. There are over 300 active artists from all over Japan and the world. With many annual events and sakes to satisfy ceramics enthusiasts, we are looking forward to your visit.”

The events to promote Kasama and Inada granite stone are also held in Yurakucho and two locations in Ginza.

Inada Stone Exhibitions
at Galerie nichido (Ginza 5chome)
March 19 (Thur) to 21 (Sat)
http://www.nichido-garo.co.jp/exhibition/2009/03/post_85.html

at Sukiyabashi Park (Ginza 4chome)
March 20(Fri)

and at Furusato Joho Plaza (Yurakucho 1chome)
March 16(Mon) to 19(Thur)
Kasama products fair also held at the same time.

Well, to be honest, I had no idea what “petanque” was until I read about an upcoming international competition in Suwa City, Nagano this weekend!:
11th Petanque Junior World Championship in Suwa (French/Japanese)

If you are interested in forming a team and compete in petanque and other boule games, all you need to do is get 5 or more people together and apply for JPBU license. The details are on JPBU’s “JPBU License” page.

日本ペタンク・ブール連合 - JPBU
Japan Petanque Boules Union (Japanese/English/French)
F.I.P.J.P. - Fédération Internationale de Pétanque et Jeu Provençal (French/English)

Petanque Clubs in Japan (for the complete list, please visit JPBU site)
Tokyo Area
Himalaya Sugi no shita Petanque Club (English)
Aoyama Petanque (English)
Nagano
Federation Nagano de Petanque (Japanese)

I would love to hear from someone who actually plays this sport!

Takara`s Brazilian Mall next to Mitsukaido Station

The Japanese word ARIGATO and the Portuguese word OBRIGADO, which both mean THANK YOU in their respective languages, can often sound uncannily alike. And since Portugal WAS the first European country to have made contact with Japan ( in 1543), and DID in fact leave several linguistic traces of its presence (not to mention the introduction of Christianity and firearms, among other things!) which continue to live on in Modern Japanese, including the words for bread- PAN, button- BOTAN, cape- KAPPA, alcohol- ARUKORU and even the word TEMPURA, it is not surprising that there are MANY who assume that ARIGATO is also a word of Portuguese origin.

And though I KNOW that the Japanese word for THANK YOU actually derives from the adjective ARIGATAI, which appears in texts as old as the 8th century MANYOSHU, and for this reason CANNOT be related to the Portuguese , whenever I hear a hearty OBRIGADO, I am taken aback by the similarity.

 I have met only one or two Portuguese nationals in Japan in all my years of living here, but I have still been fortunate to have often heard the Portuguese language spoken in Japan-  in its Brazilian form (  it is often said by language lovers  that Brazilian Portuguese is the most beautiful of all tongues!). This is because, since the 1990`s , thousands of Brazilians, mostly with  Japanese ancestry of some degree, have come to Japan to take advantage of its (once) booming economy.

They settled primarily in 3 areas. Aichi Prefecture, in the towns with Toyota related factories, in Ota City in Gunma, and-  in our very own Ibaraki Prefecture, especially in  Mitsukaido and Ishige (which have now merged into Joso City).  While most of these immigrants were working at factories (such as Cannon) and had their own special visa status as NIKKEI-JIN, there were of course some entrepreneurs among them who went out and started up businesses of their own, many of these catering mostly to the  Brazilian community.

That is why, when you drive to or get out at Mitsukaido Station (on the Joso line, which you can catch in Moriya), not only will you surely be able to catch the melifluous tones of  Brazilian speech in your ears, but you will also be able to stock up on , lunch on, or just nosh on your favorite Brazilian foods and snacks. Close by the station`s exit, you will find the little mall called TAKARA, which has a supermarket, fresh bakery, and a kitchen where you can get all sorts of goodies that you cannot  normally find in Japan ( or outside of Brazil for that matter).

Leila Kondo serving it up

Maybe its because I always need a little VARIETY, but sometimes I cant contol the urge to head on out to Mitsukaido (by train or car it takes less than an hour) for some Pastel or Conxinhas (these are fried pastries made from flour or casava) which might contain chicken, cheese , ham, or my favorite - palmitas (palm fruit). Leila Kondo, who is behind the counter can also whip up a tasty burger. Whatever she cooks up can be spiced up with the various sauces left out at the tables.At the supermarket, there are several things that are special- the famous Brazilian sausages (perfect for barbecues ) the cashew juice or acai juice, and the baked goods. The breads have a unique CHEWINESS which is brought about by the use of casava flour. I like the bite-sized cheese breads called pao de queijo (47 Yen), especially when eaten just out of the oven.

Cashew Juice

For those who want to try other Brazilian dishes ( including the famous feijao, a  hearty and flavorfull bean and meat stew, or sit down for a bigger,more leisurely meal, a short walk around the corner will take you to the restaurant OPCAO. There you can expect your stomach to be more than comfortably weighed down, while your wallet is hardly lightened at all.

 Immigration to Brazil from Japan began back in 1908 when close to 800  Japanese sailed to the port of Santos (half the expense having been paid by the State of Sao Paolo) to work on the coffee plantations. Over  the next 70 years, about a quarter of a million Japanese  settled in Brazil as contract labourers or more rarely, as independant farmers. The large majority settled in the State of Sao Paolo and the remainder in the States of Parana and Para. Naturally, there was a trend for later genrations to head to the cities and go into other trades and professions. In Japan`s booming late 80`s and through the 90`s , some of the descendants of these immigrants (and sometimes their spouses) came back to their ancestral homeland , though they have tended to stick together, forming an intersting subculture in Japan.

Freshly baked Brazilian breads

If  you need a little variety , why not take half a day to spice up your life with a little Brazilian food around Mitsukaido Station.

3 Comments

• At August 7, 2009, drebes wrote:

  Actually, the word in portuguese is "obrigado", not "obligado". You may heard it as "obligado" from a Brazilian nikkeijin who grew up in a Japanese colony with Japanese as his/her first language, though.

• At August 7, 2009, Avi Landau wrote:

  Thanks drebes, or should I say- OBRIGADO ! Yes, surely after years in Japan, I too have begun to confuse my L`s and R`s, but in this case, as I typed, I must have been under the spell of the English word OBLIGED, which we also use to mean thank you!

  I have changed the text accordingly.

• At August 9, 2009, Sumiko wrote:

  Quite interesting! It's said Japanese language sounds very flat

  and doesn't have much strong accent.I wonder if the middle sound of the words mainly stimulates our hearing organs when spoken in a flat tone.

Entering the precincts of the Yasukuni Shrine on August 15 2010 at 1PM

For important background material on this article, read my earlier Tsukublog post on visiting Yasukuni Jinja:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2008/08/a-day-at-yasukuni-shrine/

August 15th, 1945  has been called Japan`s Longest Day.  It was on that very date that the Emperor Hirohito (now known as The Showa Emperor) told his subjects, in a voice heard for the first time ever over the radio, that they would have to ACCEPT THE UNACCEPTABLE and surrender unconditionally to the allied forces. This announcement, coming after years of hardship and determined struggle, was met with tears, stunned confusion, and surely, by many millions of Japanese, with a great  sense of relief.

Outside the shrine, barriers ( more effective than the traffic cones and plastic poles used in previous years) were set up early

Over the years since the years since the war, August 15th has also come to be what is most certainly the LONGEST DAY OF THE YEAR for Tokyo`s police department- especially its riot squad. This is because in recent years it has been their duty, on that day, to protect the procession of anti-emperor system-, and other left-wing-cause activists who ( bravely?  INSANELY???) march towards the entrance of the controversial Yasukuni Shrine, which on the SHU-SEN KINENBI (終戦記念日- the End of the War Day ), has become a mecca for the Japanese extreme right and ultra-nationalists ( besides being the place where hundreds of thousands of average citizens quietly and reverently pay their respects to those soldiers who have died in Japan`s wars).

A better look at this year`s barriers- Much more effective than the usual traffic cones and plastic poles!

Together with the thousands of run-of-the-mill nationalists , who gather, flags in hand, to protect the honor of the shrine (in their mind) by uniting to form a wall, and shouting the left-wing demonstration down, there are numerous bands of fringe paramilitary groups and gangters (yakuza), whose khaki-clad members wait in ambush and try to lunge into the procession and take as many swings at the demonstrators as they can get in ( though as I have written before they usually target able-bodied young men and not the elderly or women who are marching).

The Anti-Yasukuni demonstration procession surrounded by a phalanx of riot police. The demonstrators were not happy about being totally obscured from view

Protecting the small band of demonstrators from violence as they march the few blocks towards and then away from the entrance of the shrine, is NO EASY TASK- especially considering that it requires wearing FULL RIOT GEAR during the hottest season of the year ( and it really IS extremely hot and humid!!), and involves plenty of running and often physical grappling.

This year the police surrounded most of the right-wing extremists` vehicles early in the day and effectively kept them out of action

To make matters even worse for the police, they have to endure a continual stream of verbal abuse from the nationalists ( and occassionally from the demonstrators they are protecting! ), who while the anti-Emperor-anti-Yasukuni procession is not within hearing distance ( which is most of the time) vent their passions on the police ( taunting them, quite illogically, for wasting the tax-payers money by protecting  so-called traitors. But what are the police supposed to do, let the demonstrators get attacked? It is in fact Governor Ishihara, the Favorite of the right-wing, who should be blamed for allowing the demonstrations. The police are in fact just doing their job!).

All nationalist groups who wanted to join the counter-demontration had to approach their designated spaces in extremely organized fashion. They too were accompanied by a high ratio of riot police once they reached the main road

This  constant and outrageous taunting of the police is not only accomplished  through  the unaided voice.  The leaders of the extremist groups, who sit in their specially decorated ( and air-conditioned!) buses, trucks and jeeps, blare their invectives through huge loudspeakers. When all of these get going at once, as they have in past years, the noise level is louder than several rock concerts combined!

After the procession passed all streets were sealed off so that nationalists could not moved on for an attack after the demonstration had finished

What had always outraged my sense of logic about all the noise these trucks would make, is that although these activists claimed that they were defending the honor of Yasukuni Shrine and The Emperor,  more than anyone, they were disturbing the worshipers, many of whom lost relatives in the war, as they had come to pay their respects the shrine. It is even possible that the Emperor and his family have been disturbed by the racket they make!

The point where the demonstrators are nearest to the shrine. This year the riot squads buses formed a wall between the demonstrators and the nationalists. It also effectively prevented the demonstrators from ever being in view of the shrine

Still, despite  the heat, tension and danger, all the officers have to constantly be on their best behaviour, as there are plenty of video and still cameras as well as eye-witnesses and anything even resembling police brutality or other form of mal-practice would be something which the right-wing groups would have to hold over them ( the mainstream media would NOT get involved, however, as they amazingly do not report what happens at these impassioned and violent demonstrations right in the heart of Tokyo!).

Ultra-rightists in uniform hurl insults at the demonstrators whose banner reads: We Dont Need Yasukuni !

And though I had always been impressed by the way the police had been able to handle everything that went on in the area in front of the Yasukuni Shrine on August 15th ( surprising for many foreigners is there are never any problems WITHIN the precincts of the shrine, though there are dozens of conspicuous plain-clothes officers from special branches of the police who can be seen photographing and taking notes on the members of right-wing groups and organized crime), there have always remained major blemishes on the why past demonstrations have turned out.

Activists handing out literature and gathering signatures between the station and the shrine ( Aug. 15th 2010). This year the group that had intimidated me was not allowed to be present

First, there were the special interest groups standing between the subway station and the shrine that occassionally would intimidate people ( especially foreigners) by encircling them and shouting slogans very loudly.

The Anti-Yasukuni demonstrators completely surrounded and in fact concealed by the riot police

Well, the group that did that to ME last year, was not allowed back! Plain-clothes police who had been closely monitoring that area and who skillfully extracted me unharmed ( physically) from the clutches of the mob had obviously made notes on what this group had been doing, and they were not allowed back. This year, all these activists groups gathered signatures for their petitions and gave out their leaflets in peace.

( for the complete story of my experience last year read:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2009/08/striking-up-a-debate-with-the-right-wing-activists-outside-the-yasukuni-shrine-on-august-15th-might-not-be-a-very-good-idea-after-all/

Another problem from previous year was the large vehicles with the powerful loudspeakers mounted on them which used to rush around the neighborhood trying to find points of access to approach the  anti-Yasukuni demonstrators. This year, the police got to these early, surrounding them for hours, until everything was all finished, never letting them move.

In addition, by some means, either a new law or just by pleading the common sense argument (which I myself had used with the right-wingers) that the noise and bad language blared from the loudspeakers were themselves an insult to the shrine, the police were able to keep most of these vehicles from making too much noise.

In past years, one of the biggest reasons for injuries to the demonstrators was that after the procession had passed its nearest point to the shrine, and excitement was highest, everyone would race through the narrow alleys and tried to pursue the leftists. Things got especially dangerous as the procession came to an end an the police would just say- OK, now go home fast! Suddenly, the demonstrators ( clearly identifiable by their wear) would be completely unprotected and the inflamed ( I would even say RABID) nationalist would ambush them.

This year, what the police did, was march all the officially registered nationalist groups into fenced off areas from which they could shout and wave flags. When the leftists passed, the nationalist were not permitted to moved. As you can imagine this resulted in a lot of abuse hurled on the police, and in fact, I and another foreigner with a camera, suddenly became the altenate target of everyones frustrations. Thankfully, the police let us ( and us alone) through.

A right-wing extremist tries to make an attack on the anti-Yasukuni procession (2010)

What this meant is that during yesterday`s procession only a few attempts could be made on the procession by paramilitary thugs or yakuza ( and the occassional enraged salaryman). These attacks were all EASILLY contained.

Something else the police did this year that was interesting was that at the point where the procession came closest to the shrine, riot buses were actually lined up as a protective wall shielding the shrine from the view of the demonstrators ( who Im sure were not very happy about that, since they were complaining that the police had been surrounding them so completely during the whole procession that they could hardly be seen by anyone). This not only kept things a little cooler by keeping both extreme groups out of each others sight at what is usually the most climctic poit of the day, but also soothed the feelings of the nationalists by blocking the shrine from the eyes of the demonstrators.

When the day was over, I was relieved at how little violence there had been compared with years past, and by how the police were able to make positive adjustments. 

Completely drained and exhausted, I started back to Tsukuba.

For everyone who was there , especially the police, August 15th proved once again to be Japan`s LONGEST DAY!

Here is a tour of Yasukuni Shrine on August 15th 2010 through my cell phone pictures:

The gigantic steel torii, at the entrance to the shrines precincts. The original steel gate was melted down during the war to make armaments. About 200,000 people passed under it on the 15th of August 2010

Few people stop to appreciate this statue of Omura Masajiro ( 1824-1862)- the father of the modern Japan army, and first Minister of War. It was the first bronze statue ever put on display in Japan (1888). Omura left his home in Choshu to study Dutch Studies which enabled him to gain an understanding of European military tactics

By the chozuya ( the water basin for purifying hands and mouth) some older gentlemen do a little cos-play ( these same guys come back every year in the same costumes)

Across the path near the snack bars there are always harmonica players to accompany anyone who would like to sing some old patriotic songs

The last gate before the worship hall ( haiden) is the beautiful Divine Gate of Twelve Pillars

Passing through the Divine Gate

The White Dove House- the birds are the messengers communicating between this world and the spirits of those enshrined. To find it, turn right at the Divine Gate

Finally, at the Worship Hall ( haiden)

Go to the right and there are statues dedicated to the three animals which helped out the military in various war: dogs. horses and pigeons. Offering are left for their spirits

A commemorative group photo being taken of what is probably a Yakuza FAMILY. Conspicuous plain-clothes agents were closely watching them, photographing each individual (as they walked into the shrines grounds), videoing them throught their stay and took extensive notes. When I asked a scary looking member of this group who they were, he looked at me, or should i say LOOKED THROUGH ME, and then just turned away without acknowledging my existence.

3 Comments

• At August 17, 2010, Tornadoes28 wrote:

  Do foreigners generally avoid this area during this time of year to avoid confrontations or is it still relatively safe?

  I can see the right wingers growing in numbers in the future now due to China's growing power and passing Japan economically. They may feel bitter about China becoming more powerful than Japan.

• At August 17, 2010, Avi Landau wrote:

  Hello there, Tornadoes28 !

  To tell the truth, there are many MORE foreigners than usual to be found within the precincts of Yasukuni Shrine, as well as around it, each Aug. 15th.

  Most do not stay very long, however, as it is usually extremely hot and humid and very crowded.

  As I have said in my posts, there is no danger at all within the shrine grounds. The only act I have ever seen which resembled anything like anti-foreigner violence within the sacred precincts, was an old man stomping joyously on a Peoples Republic of China flag. This scene was of course photographed by tourists, bloggers and journalists alike, and these images might have given the impression that Japan was on the war-path again.I felt that broadcasting such pictures were extremely misleading as that was a single, eccentric ( maybe homeless old man) who was probably drunk.

  In other words, if you act respectfully, everyone is quite friendly. The Japanese worshippers might even express their appreciation for your visit saying: Thank you for coming!

  Outside the shrines territory, things are different ( as I have written before), and you really have to watch what you say. I would not recommend openning up any debates, not matter how much good-will intended.

  Regarding the demonstrations, there are few foreigners who stick around for them ( and those who do are usually the same faces that you see every year).

  First, few people know about what goes on, as it is not advertized. Many who DO come to see the demonstrations mistakenly think they will be held AT the shrine and then leave thinking that they missed it.

  The greatest danger posed to any foreigner who decides to go next year would be after the procession passes its closest point to Yasukuni and then heads on back to its starting point where it eventually breaks up. It is then that roaming right-wingers looking for a fight, many drunk with either alcohol or rage, might mistake you for one of the demonstrators.

  As to the future of Japanese nationalism, you might be right. But then again, as my grandmother used to say- who the hell knows?!

• At August 18, 2010, Sue wrote:

  What an interesting article! I teach at a highschool in Ichibancho, down the road from Yasukuni. As we are in holiday at that time, I've never seen the demonstrations. Our summer vacation begins at about the time that Yasukuni holds its Mitama Matsuri in July.