Clear skies and plenty of boats ready to be taken out (Jan. 9th, 2011)

Traditionally, the Japanese have always made a fresh start in EVERYTHING after  New Year`s. In fact, this went so far, that on the the first day of the first month of the year everyone was considered to have aged together by one year ( even a baby which had been born a week earlier!).

And though now there are INDIVIDUAL BIRTHDAYS ( though interestingly 20 year-olds still celebrate their coming-of age together in January). as well as additional new beginnings such as the SCHOOL YEAR and FISCAL YEAR ( which start in April in Japan), all sorts of NEW BEGINNINGS are still commonly recognized and celebrated.

The is the first sunrise of the year ( HATSU HINODE, 初日の出), on the morning of January first, the first CALLIGRAPHY of the year (KAKI ZOME, 書初め) on January second, and the first tea ceremony of the year- HATSU GAMA.

There are special expressions for FIRSTS OF THE YEAR of almost every kind.　There is even a special term for omes the first sexual act of the year- HIME-HAJIME!

For the occassion rice was pounded into MOCHI- rice cakes!

One FIRST-OF-THE-YEAR EVENT which has become a tourist attraction throughout Japan is the DEZOME SHIKI (出初式)- the first coming- out- of- the- year of Japan`s firemen- which can often be as spectacular as a circus, with traditional acrobatics performed atop bamboo poles, exhibitions of firefighting techniques ( including fire-hose spray shows), and  displays of new fire-trucks and equipment. Just about every city in Japan has a DEZOME, and as you can imagine they are especially attractive to families with small kids.

Well this year, I wanted to go check out the fire-fighters festival in Tsuchiura, which I heard usually culminated in a spectacular fire-hose show down by the Yacht Harbour on Lake Kasumigaura ( just in front of Tsuchiura Stations East Entrance). I had looked at a web-site that I usually use to get information about traditional events in and around Tsukuba, and found that the DEZOME in Tsuchiura would be held on the morning of January ninth.

We  hurried down to Tsuchiura with great anticipation.

When we got to where I thought the event would be held, however, instead of shiny fire engines and excited crowds we found only a few people lazilly fishing off the pier.

Naturally we were disappointed, and I kicked myself in the pants for not having CONFIRMED the time and place  by phone with Tsuchiura`s City office. It turns out we had arrived a day too late.

But sometimes stupid mistakes can end in great discoveries. 

So while we had missed out on one FIRST-OF-THE-YEAR CEREMONY, we accidentally found ourselves at another one!

Each table at the marina was layed out with a fine spread

Driving a few hundred meters further down the waterside, we came to a fenced off area within which all sorts of small and medium watercraft were PARKED on land. At the gate there was a sign which read something like: LACUS MARINA ハーバー開き　寒風大会　誰でも楽しもう- meaning The Lacus Marina`s Harbour Opening- the Cold Wind Festival- Anyone Can Come and Enjoy!

Since fate seemed to have brought us to this place and also because the weather happened to be just perfect, we decided to take up the invitation offered on the sign and headed on into the marina.

For a thousand yen per person ( 500 for children) we were offered freshly pounded rice cakes ( omochi), and lots of other food and drink which was laid out on tables outside, free rides on all sorts of water craft ( motorboats, canoes, kayaks, and sailboats), and most importantly for me a taste of what it was like in the old days when WATER TRANSPORT had been such a vital part of like in this and other parts of Japan.

In this country,before the rise to dominance of railroads, and then later roads for automobiles, most goods were transported ( whenever possible) via waterways! In the Edo Period ( 1600-1868) , goods produced in the Tsuchiura area, most prominantly soy sauce, firewood, rice, and straw sacks, would be taken to Edo  by wind driven boats called TAKASE BUNE (高瀬船). On the return trip these same ships would bring back salt, sake, textiles, etc. This trip would take take anywhere from 3 days to a couple of weeks ( depending on wind and other conditions), and took the craft from Lake Kasumigaura to the Tone River, and then to the Edo River, before reaching its final destination. A different route would take the boats to the important seaport of Choshi (銚子), now in Chiba Perefecture, from where fresh salt-water fish and salt were brought to Tsuchiura.

(It might be surprising to you, but even goods from Mito ( even today about an hour by highway from Tsuchiura) were transported to Edo by water craft. They would travel down a series of canals (built during the Edo Period) until they can to Lake Kasumigaura. They would then take the usual rout to Edo until they could drop their goods off at the Mito Clans store-houses which were in Asakusa.)

Besides the ships used for transport there were all the various types of fishing craft ( from the days before the lake was closed off from the sea and fish and shellfish still abounded) , and the house boats in which people lived on all year round.

Also, after the fall of the Shogunate and the liberalization of travel, and before the completion of the Joban Railway Line, usual Tsuchiurans would travel to and from Tokyo by ship. Naturally, travel between the villages located around the lake was also done almost exclusively by boat. Almost all the boats on the lake remained those either powered by wind or oars until the Taisho Period (1912-1926) even though a few steam-powered ships were introduced as far back as 1891. The Choshi Maru steam liner could shuttle passengers between Choshi and Tsuchiura in 8 hours. 

This vanished world, so centered around the lake and so full of boats, is evoked tenderly in Dr Junichi Saga`s book Memories and Silk and Straw ( a book which I strongly recommend to anyone living in the Tsukuba area), and images from the stories told in his book floated across my mind`s eye that morning as I sailed off out into the lake and watched the modern city of Tsuchiura fade away in the distance.

From the boat I could see the newly renovated YOKAREN (予科練) Museum, which is a moving memorial to the young ( some, VERY young) men, who went off to die in SPECIAL ATTACK MISSIONS as so-called KAMIKAZE pilots. The reason that this museum is located on the shores of Lake Kasumigaura  is that it was on this lake that the many of the young pilots trained ( as did those who participated in the attack on Pearl harbour) because there was once a huge Navy Base in Ami Town, as well as a big naval presence in Tsuchiura. Though there still is ( a greatly reduced) SDF base near the lake in Ami, this strong military presence has also become  a thing of the past.( See my Tsukublog article on the YOKAREN MUSEUM here:

  http://blog.alientimes.org/2010/08/pearl-harbor-and-kamikaze-pilots-have-strong-connection-to-lake-kasumigaura-visiting-the-yokaren-museum-again/ )

All the watercraft teeming with people and goods, the lake itself teemiing with fish and shellfish, the streets packed  shoppers and sailors, the hustle and bustle. All that lives on only in Saga Sensei`s books.  Drifting peacefully on the lakes still waters with only a handful of other boats in sight, all recreational, really drove home the sense of MUJOー　（ 無常）, the fleeting nature of all things.

The city of Tsuchiura, as seen from far out on the lake. Mt. Tsukuba looms in the background

The marina staff was extremely kind and they patiently helped out anyone who wanted to try out the canoes, kayaks or sailboats.

 They will hold similar events 3 more times this year:

On Children`s Day- may 5th

Sea Day ( Umi no Hi)- July 17th

and  Sports Day ( Tai iku no Hi)- Oct. 9th

If you would like to get a feel of what its like to get on the lake-  these days will provide the perfect chance.

The marina itself is also interesting in itself, as it is used by various groups to store their boats- the Kasumigaura High School Yachting Club, for example, which has developed many of Japan`s Olympic sailors, trains there.

One very strange thing for me at the marina, was the rarity having  a pleasant Lake Kasumigaura experience. It was nice to see so much bird-life freely enjoying the lake- since I have spent many hours freeing these same species from the nets which make the shores of Kasumigaura, at the villages of Okijuku and Tamura a veritable execution grounds for birds.  

Oh- lets not forget about the DEZOME ( fire-fighter`s events)! Apparently there will be one held in Yatabe, Tsukuba,  on January 15th.

Here are some photos of past DEZOME in Tsukuba:

http://www.city.tsuchiura.lg.jp/index.php?code=2546

The Lacus Marina`s Website is here:

www.lacusmarina.com

2 Comments

• At January 10, 2011, alice wrote:

  Is omochi nage a New Year event in Tsukuba? I've yet to see dezome. It must have drawn a large crowd every year.

• At January 11, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  Avi-san

  You are lucky to find Harbor-Biraki at Tsuchiura, nice review about water-root Edo-Tokyo until recently, I hope someone will think about cruise from Tsuchiura through Kasumigaura to Nihonbashi, even somewhere we should use bus or other transportation. It might be cruise for intelligent adults with knowledge and time.

  This time I read your very impressive article last August about Yokaren-and WWⅡ, it was not an simple articles of usual Americans but a deep analysis from the high view point of Historian of man kind. May be many American people did not accept your view about the use of Atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The big changes have occurred in Asia after WWⅡ,from colonies to independent countries. As you suggested almost all young Japanese scarcely know Japanese History from Meiji-era to WWⅡ,luck of time? not knowing how to teach? So they should learn by themselves, I think NHK-Taiga Drama “Sakanoue No Kumo” is very important Drama for many Japanese.

  History can teach us many reasons of Historical occurrences, and to stimulate to consider for future.

  My teacher in primary school 4-6 grade was graduate of Yokaren may be around 28 years old , he was somehow rough like threw chalks to boys who was chatting, using Soroban to strike naughty one’s heads. Even so he was liked because he liked swimming, hiking, skiing and took pupil to such outdoor activities, he is around 80 now, so he can not attend class-meeting. We always hope his good health.

  There was Navy-Air-squadron training field in Yatabe-area, now there are National-Agricultural Institutes. Yokaren were trainee-students, Those who were trained in Yatabe were Real Pilots of “OUKA＝桜花"：a bonb stile aircraft go down from the big airplane.

  I remember there was high attitude photo taken from US-B29 just after the War, it was hang on the wall of Soya-shop near Arakawaoki station. I would like to visit that Shop near future whether the photo is still there or not.

The name of the drama is "自販機男(Jihanki Otoko or the Vending Machine Guy)" which is a part of “世にも奇妙な物語 (Yonimo Kimyou-na Monogatari) Fall Special Version.” Yonimo Kimyou-na Monogatari is a very popular omnibus series which started in 1990. It usually gives the viewers the bizarre (奇妙な) short stories that are just way too weird to be true, but still make you think, “hey, wait a minute, it could happen for real!” Yonimo Kimyou-na Monogatari is like the omnibus of urban legends, in a sense.

It looks like that “Jihanki Otoko” will be the 3rd story in tonight’s “Yonimo….”

世にも奇妙な物語 (Yonimo Kimyou-na Monogatari) Fall Special Version
October 2, Tuesday from 9:00pm to 11:24pm
Fuji TV (or Channel 8)
Tsukuba Film Commission’s announcement
(Japanese, but you can see the pictures)

Please read Shaney's post "Have Your Treasures Appraised in Tsukuba" or visit the Tsukuba City's website for more information. According to the city's announcement, the cityscape and some research institutions will also be on TV.

One of the TV and internet services available in many areas in Tsukuba is provided by ACCS.

Despite its quick internet connection and good customer service, this company’s “credit card only” payment policy has turned away a lot of potential customers. The good news is that ACCS has recently started to offer a couple of other payment options. Now you can also choose to pay your bills at a convenience store or through your bank account. In both cases, a deposit of 10,000 yen (when using either the TV or the internet service) or 20,000 yen (when using both services) will be necessary, but
you can get the money back when terminating the contract. No charge for paying through the banks designated by ACCS (such as Joyo and Kanto banks), but a 105 yen/month transfer fee will be necessary when using non-designated banks. Paying at a convenience store will incur a service fee of 210 yen/month.

Call 029-852-6111 to check out the details.

The musical is in Japanese, but if you read the synopsis (see below), it should be fairly easy to understand what is going on. The performance involves acting, singing, and dancing, so it should be fun for both children and adults to watch.

(By the way, a certain regular contributor to TsukuBlog will be appearing the show as "Queen Shule". Look closely at the second page of the pamphlet and you may spot her!)

Event: Adventures in Jamblini
Date: May 5, 2009
Times: 2pm and 5:30pm (two shows)
Place: Tsukuba Capio (map)
Tickets: JHS students and younger: 1300 yen, HS students 1800 yen, Adults 2200 yen

Tickets are available online or by contacting me (Shaney).

==========================
Adventures in Jamblini - Synopsis

The play opens up at a juku (cram school) where parents are being lectured on the importance of having their children enter a good school. At this particular juku, the head teacher has decided to offer "24-hour cram sessions" and the parents decide that they need to send their children to these sessions in order to secure their future.

The kids go to one of these cram sessions and are on their way home when they meet up with one of their friends, Cook. Cook doesn't attend juku, so she has missed her friends over the past 24 hours. She tries to get them to play with her, but everyone is too tired or too busy to comply. She finally convinces one of the kids to start playing janken (rock, paper, scissors) and that finally wakens the need in all the kids to start playing. Janken turns into tag, and soon all of the kids are remembering how much fun it is to play. Finally, the kids come upon an open manhole and decide to explore what is inside.

What the kids don't realize is that on the other side of the manhole is a whole other kingdom, Jamblini! When we first see Jamblini, we meet the Witch and her apprentices. The Witch is a proud, vengeful woman who has placed a spell on the peaceful inhabitants of Jamblini. Time has been stopped in the kingdom and all of its citizens are frozen in time.

However, all is not lost! When the kids come through the manhole, they sing a song that contains a magic word ("waku waku") that breaks the Witch's spell and frees the citizens of Jamblini and their queen, Shule. The Queen and her subjects are very grateful to the children. However, they have to deliver some bad news: the roads in Jamblini are all ONE WAY! So the kids have to travel all the way through the kingdom in order to get back to the manhole and escape.

The Witch is not going to be happy when she learns that the children have broken her spell. She is going to try to stop the kids with all of her powers. Queen Shule decides to help the kids by giving them some "Queen Dust" that will make a victim laugh for 10 minutes straight if exposed to it. She also tells them to call for her magic mice in a BIIIIIIIIIG voice if they need help. The mice are sure to come running!

Armed with the Queen Dust and Shule's advice, the kids go on their way. At first they are reluctant to go, but then they realize that they all have to work together to get back to the manhole. The Witch and her apprentices do indeed have their fun with the children -- trying to freeze them cold and blocking their way with fire -- but the kids do their best to work together to get past these obstacles and (spoiler alert) find their way back home.

The kids -- and their parents -- learn through these adventures that they should not spend all of their time studying. Play time is important too, and the kids can learn many important things through playing with their peers. One of the most important things that kids can learn is how to work together to accomplish their goals and get what they want out of life.

==========================

For more information about the play and Gekidan Kurie Tsukuba, the drama club that is performing the show, please see the club's website (in Japanese) or contact me.

Favorite past-time (or even obsession) of many an Emperor, aristocrat, and shogun, and inspiration for numerous sublime paintings and poems, falconry and hawking were not OPENED UP to the general public until the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1868. Even then, it was (and still is) a prohibitively expensive and time consuming hobby for the average Japanese.

But being a much older tradition than the tea ceremony, flower arrangement and most (or ALL) of the Japanese martial arts, it is not surprising that in this country where so many average people strive to emulate or take on the habits, manners, tastes, and attainments of the old ruling classes, several schools of hawking and falconry (takagari, 鷹狩り), both classical and modern, live on in Japan. And though the shotgun is the weapon of choice for nearly all of Tsukuba’s hunters, don’t be surprised if you run into a falconer, or a whole group of them, especially along the banks of the Hanamuro River. They are hunting for pheasant, duck, and other small game, which they flush out of the bush with dogs. They are usually armed with sparrow-hawks, goshawks and peregrine falcons.

Evidence for the existence of falconry in Japan predates the appearance of writing, as several clay figurines (haniwa, 埴輪) from the so-called KOFUN Period (5-6th century), portray hunters with birds of prey on their shoulders (of course they could also be interpreted as being pirates with parrots on their shoulders!). These have been unearthed from the tombs of local rulers. One them, shown above, is from nearby Gunma Prefecture.

Falconry is mentioned in Japan’s second oldest official written record, the Nihon Shoki (720), where it is described how a Prince of Paekche, in Korea, came to Japan and taught Emperor Nintoku how to hunt with a trained bird.

In classical times, many of Japan’s great emperors — Saga, Uda, Daigo, Ichijou, and Shirakawa — poets such as Otomo no Yakamochi, Ariwara no Narihira, AND the first official Barbarian Subduing Generallissimo himself – Sakanoue no Tamuromaro, were all falconry fanatics. An official agency for the sport was created by the Heian Court.

In medieval times, when Japan was ruled by the warrior class, new schools of falconry were established. One interesting aspect of the popularity of this blood sport was how it was justified by its ostensibly Buddhist practitioners. This was done by emphasizing the connection between falconry and its Guardian Deity — Hachiman, the enshrined spirit of Emperor Ojin — and the God of War, and by offering captured game to the God of the Suwa Shrine.

It was in the the Edo Period (1600-1868), however, that falconry REALLY flourished (with the exception of the tenure of Tsunayoshi, the animal-loving shogun), as the founder of the dynasty, Tokugawa Ieyasu, was probably the greatest supporter of falconry that Japan has ever known. He imposed strict controls on the nobility’s hunting and designated vast tracts as his personal hunting grounds, forbidding farmers in those areas from harming ducks or geese and also making them help out in hunts, which could last days or weeks.

So don’t be too surprised if you come across some people with dogs and large birds. It’s just an old tradition around here.

Here are some websites with pictures and videos.

www.jfa.gr.jp/en/news.htm

www.falcomall.com/h9.html

www.img-f.com/sfs.htm

www.falconers-hermitage.com

takasyoken.exblog.jp

The picture above of the hunter with a goshawk in Tsukuba was taken by Rick Weisburd.

3 Comments

• At January 12, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  Avi-san’s very interesting article about falconry, I am surprised there is such a club existing in Tsukuba, active near Hanamuro river area. Where I live in Onogawa, I sometimes find scattered bird feathers, but I thought these were remains of birds hunted by some wild kites (tombi).

  I used to have a mixed-blood male Labrador-retriever which we adopted as a family member after finding him as a stray. He liked hunting and followed real flying birds which he could not catch. Only once he caught as nest-fallen chick. I was very upset and buried it. If the dog was born in some aristocratic family like that of SAKANOUE NO TAMURURAMARO, he he would have been most welcomed.

  It is very interesting that Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of Tokugawa-Shogunate who made Edo the capital of Japan liked falconry. The first builder of the original Edo-castle Ohta Doukan, (太田道灌,1432 -1486, a war lord of Sengoku-Era: the Civil War Period) seems to have been a lover of Falconry. About him there is a very famous legend ”“Falconry in Yamabuki-no-sato(山吹の里:Yamabuki-village)”.

  One autumn day Ohta Doukan went falconing around Musashino(武蔵野:which is thought to be Waseda, near what is now Waseda-University)

  Suddenly autumn rain began falling. He ran into a small humble farm house and asked to borrow a Rain-coat made of straw (蓑：Mino), but a young girl of that house just held out one branch of Yamabuki with flowers saying nothing. Doukan became irritated ”I asked for a Mino, why she is holding a Yamabuki!” But some attendant said that “there was an old poem that goes “七重八重 花は咲けども 山吹の実のひとつだに 無きぞ悲しき”:Nanaeyae Hanawa Sakedomo Yamabukino Mino Hitotsudani Nakizo Kanashiki: It is pity that the Yamabuki has flowers blooming in seven-to-eight petals but never bears fruit.” By holding out Yamauki-with flowers she Meant to express that she was sorry that there was no Mino(蓑：実の) without mentioning it directly in words.

  Doukan was ashamed of himself for his lack of knowledge regarding old poems, and tried to study poetry ever afte that experience.

  There is the so called “太田道灌鷹狩の図　江戸名所図会：, A Portrait of Ohta Doukan Hunting with Falcons, one of the Views of famous Places in the Edo-Era” a picture made in Edo-era, that Doukan wearing Hunting

  Cloth and beside him a man with a hawk on his shoulder.

  There is a bronze statue of him wearing hunting cloth holding a bow which is located in the Tokyo-Kokusai-Forum near Yurakucyo.

  http://kkubota.cool.ne.jp/doukan.htm

• At January 12, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Mamoru-San! Thank you once again for your valuable comments. I enjoyed the story of Ota Dozan. I too, always feel that I should improve my knowledge of Japanese classics, especially poetry.

  The fethers that you find scattered in Onogawa could be the result of goshawk (O-Taka) kills. However, the birds might also have been eaten by weasels (ITACHI) or even more likely- CATS!

  In my neighborhood, Konda, there are still plenty of owls and there are even some O-Taka. I saw a wild one today. Magnificent!

  I hope tht we can protect their nesting area which is being threatened by development plans!

  I am waiting for your next comments!

• At January 15, 2011, alice wrote:

  Shimuzu-san,

  Haha! Thanks for enlightening me with some ancient poetry and history. Ah, that's the way of the Japanese. One has to read the action or mind of another. That goes for my husband. When he opens the fridge many times before dinner time, it's a sign that it's time to cook dinner!

Well, to be honest, I had no idea what “petanque” was until I read about an upcoming international competition in Suwa City, Nagano this weekend!:
11th Petanque Junior World Championship in Suwa (French/Japanese)

If you are interested in forming a team and compete in petanque and other boule games, all you need to do is get 5 or more people together and apply for JPBU license. The details are on JPBU’s “JPBU License” page.

日本ペタンク・ブール連合 - JPBU
Japan Petanque Boules Union (Japanese/English/French)
F.I.P.J.P. - Fédération Internationale de Pétanque et Jeu Provençal (French/English)

Petanque Clubs in Japan (for the complete list, please visit JPBU site)
Tokyo Area
Himalaya Sugi no shita Petanque Club (English)
Aoyama Petanque (English)
Nagano
Federation Nagano de Petanque (Japanese)

I would love to hear from someone who actually plays this sport!

Tsukuba Expo Center
CLOSED from December 27(Thur) to January 3(Thur)
Event:
"Let’s make a Christmas ornament with glow-in-the-dark beads"
Dec.22, 23, 24 and 25 from 1PM to 3:30PM

Tsukuba Botanical Garden
CLOSED from December 28 (Fri) to January 4(Fri)

Ibaraki Nature Museum
CLOSED from December 28 (Fri) to January 1 (Tue)
Event:
"The 41st Exhibition - The 4th General Research: Nature of North-Western IBARAKI”
October 20(Sat) to January 14(Mon)

Aquaworld Ooarai
OPEN
Events:
"Costume Contest"
Saturdays, Sundays and holidays during Dec. 1 to 24
Those who come to the aquarium in full Santa Claus costumes will receive a gift at the entrance, and there will also be a costume contest.
"Christmas Nights"
Dec. 23 and 24
The aquarium will be open until 8PM and there will be some special events such as a concert and special dolphin shows.

Potiron no Mori
OPEN
Events:
"Free admission days" - Dec. 22, 23 and 24
There will be a lot of events as always, and there will be fireworks display from 7:30pm on Dec.23 and 24. Admission will be free again on January 1.

Ushiku Daibutsu
OPEN
Events:
"初詣(hatsu moude/ new year’s visit)" to the Ushiku Daibutsu
修正会(shoshoue/ Buddhist ritual) from Dec. 31, 11PM to Jan. 1, 2AM and Jan 1, 7AM to 4:30PM. Admissions will be free on Jan. 1, 2 and 3 (and possibly on Dec 31 as well. Please check). Traditional Japanese music performances by area groups, monkey shows, magic shows, calligraphy (performance?), and many more will take place during these 3 days.

14:55 to 15:25
Lecture by ambassador Daniel D. Polski/ Conferencia del Sr. Embajador de la Republica Argentina Daniel D.Polski
Lecture title: “Argentina‚ key drivers for sustainable economic development”/ “Argentina: Factores Claves del Desarrollo Económico Sustentable”
　　　　　　
15:35 to 16:00
Argentina tango evening/ Demonstration and lesson by Luna de Tango Company, Demonstracion y clase de tango a cargo de “Luna de Tango Company.”

16:00 to 17:00
Social gathering/ Let’s talk about Argentine

Please contact Sugimoto at 029-853-6785
or visit the following page for details:
http://www.tsukuba.ac.jp/hall/20080521140055.html

Program:
http://www.tsukuba.ac.jp/up_pdf/20080521140055001.pdf

General admission tickets are being sold for 1,500 yen at the Tsukuba Cultural Foundation or Tsukuba Shinkou Zaidan located at the rear of the Tsukuba Capio Center (029-851-2886) or at Nova Hall (029-852-5881). For more information, call the Tsukuba Cultural Foundation (029-856-7007).

For those of you out there not flying home for the holidays and who are planning to spend your New Year's Holiday here in Japan, come join us during this holiday season. Make the December 30 choral concert a part of your end-of-the-year celebrations.