First let`s look at the origin of the term Osechi ( 御節), which an abbreviation of Osechiku (御節供),  literally meaning Offerings for Days of Seasonal Change. Traditionally, besides New Year`s, five special seasonal change days (originally brought over from China) were celebrated in Japan. These are all linked to the fact that according to Chinese thought, ODD NUMBERS are auspicious. Thus  we have:

 O-shogatsu ( the New Year) on the first day of the first month ( 1/1)

 Jinjitsu no Sekku ( 人日の節句) on the seventh day of the first month (1/7)

Joshi no Sekku (　上巳の節句 ) on the third day of the third month ( 3/3)

Tango no Sekku ( 端午の節句) on the fifth day of the fifth month (5/5)

Shichiseki (七夕) on the seventh day of the seventh month (7/7)

and Choyo no Sekku (重陽の節句) on the 9th day of the ninth month

on which special foods were given as offerings to the gods. These Sechiku (offerings) were later eaten by the family or group that presented them.  

Since  the first day of the first month was, and still is, the most important of these seasonal change days, the term Osechi is now  used ONLY to refer to the  special dishes of New Year`s.

(the other seasonal change days ( sekku) are still recognized in Japan  to varying degrees and  have their OWN special dishes which have evolved over the generations. The fifth day of the fifth month is even a national holiday ( Childrens Day), while 3/3 is the popular Doll Festival ( Hina Matsuri) and 7/7 , the Tanabata star Festival. Interestingly, 9/9, the most important of the sekku for the ancient Chinese, besides New Years Day ( because nine is the largest ODD number), did not become truly popular in Japan because in the Japanese language the pronounciation of the number nine -KU-can also mean to suffer.)

Each of the separate dishes which make up what is now called Osechi ( and there can be dozens) are meant to  symbolically represent ( through similarities of sound or shape etc) a good harvest, long healthy life,  the success of ones descendants and conjure up other positive, auspicious  images for the future.

 Osechi dishes also usually include representative foods from the mountain and foods from the sea, as well as foods which are cooked in various styles( grilling,boiling, etc.), and different tastes ( sweet, sour, salty).

As with Japanese cooking in general, they also show deep consideration for healthfulness with  a good balance of vegetables and protein.

The other characteristic of Osechi dishes, is that they must keep for at least three days and can be eaten as they are, that is, without heating up- because over the New Year`s holiday there was NO cooking, traditionally.

Of course, there are variations in, how many, and what dishes comprise the Osechi from family to family , so it goes without saying that their can be great regional variation.

GOMAME 

In the Kanto Area ( around Tokyo), there are 3 dishes which are considered essential ( iwai sakana sanshu- 祝い肴三種), which are-  GOMAME ( boiled and dried sardines, also called TAZUKURI), KUROMAME (黒豆)- boiled black beans, and KAZU NO KO ( 数の子)- herring eggs.

Kazu no ko ( herring roe) 

In Kansai ( around Kyoto and Osaka), the GOMAME, while probably included somewhere in the Osechi, in not considered to be one of the essential three. Instead there is TATAKI GOBO (burdock root boiled in Soy sauce) which is considered a MUST ( the other two are the same).

Traditionally these dishes are packed into a set of stacked laquered boxes, four tiers high ( though now 2 or three tiers is the norm and these are often of cheaper material). This makes for convenient serving.

Besides this utilitarian aspect, all the dishes, with their celebratory colors,  packed into these small boxes makes  a feast for the eyes ( some would say that it is more beautiful than delicious!) and is also symbolic of how the millions of residents of this mountainous island nation have lived cramped together, yet in harmony.

kuromame 

As I mentioned before there is no ONE set way of packing or stacking these boxes but here is a typical way:

The first tier ( ICHI NO JU 一の重) would have the essentials- the KUROMAME ( representing HARD WORK, DILIGENCE and health- because MAME means beans, diligence , energy and health. Their black color bearing the power to drive away bad energies), the Kazu no ko ( herring roe) which represents many descendants ( there are made up of countless eggs) and health of parents ( NISHIN, herring, is a homophone for NISHIN 二親- two parents), and the GOMAME fish, which represent a good harvest ( sardines would traditionally be used to fertilize the rice fields).Date Maki-伊達巻, an egg and fish paste roll shaped to form a swirl were said to have bee a favorite of the great daimyo Date Masamune. Their scroll shaped also can be seen as a celebration of Japan`s traditional literature, which was written and illustrated on scrolls. 

The second tier ( NI NO JU 二の重), contains grilled foods and sea foods- yellowtail (BURI- which represents promotion, as this fish has different names in its different growth stages), shrimp ( whose bent back represents achieving old age), Sea bream ( TAI, which for the Japanese conjures up images of omedeTAI- celebration, etc…

The third tier ( SAN NO JU 三の重) contained vinegared dishes

and the fourth tier ( YO NO JU 与の重, please note that the character here 与 is not the standard character for the number 4 ( 四), which could also be read SHI (death), and is thus avoid. This might also be the reason that four tiers are no longer popular) contained boiled dishes including KONBUMAKI ( kelp) which represents happiness ( because the sound of KONBU is similar to that of yoroKOBU- to be glad) and lotus root, whose holes, which can be peered through, represent the looking toward the future, etc…

As I said, the above does NOT represent the rule and will find variations of this arrangement.

(And there are many more dishes that I have not  mentioned yet. I will add to this list little by little and promise a more comprehensive list by next O-Shogatsu) 

In Japan today many people order their osechi ( each tier costs at least 5,000 Yen and the price can go much higher than that), but many houswives make some of the dishes themselves even if they do order a set.

Each of the dishes can also be bought separately at department stores just before O-shogatsu.

Its fun to sit around the house for three days, noshing now and then out of the osechi trays ( with plenty of SAKE, of course!), enjoying not only the taste and beautiful presentation of the food but also each little tidbit`s symbolic significance.

Some more O-Sechi favorites: Date Maki (伊達巻), on the left- made of eggs and fish meal, and Kamaboko- made of fish paste. These were part of my own O-Sechi ( 2011)

By the way, though O-Sechi can be picked at freely at any time diring the first three days of the year, at MEAL TIMES it is always taken together with O-ZONI (お雑煮), which is a soup containing O-Mochi ( pounded rice cakes). O-zoni is interesting in that though O-Shogatsu is celebrated by just about everyone in Japan in quite a similar way- there is great variation in O-Zoni, depending on the region. There is even a saying TONARI NO ZONI (隣りの雑煮) which means that even within the same region, or neighborhood, O-Zoni varies from household to household.

I have heard that this sometimes leads to spats in the first year of marriage, since a new bride might make O-Zoni which to her husband is NOT O-Zoni. Or since a brides new family might insist that she make O-Zoni THEIR WAY.

Generally speaking,, speaking in Western Japan the Mochi in the soup is usually round, while in Eastern Japan ( including Tsukuba), it is square.

A famous O-Zoni oddity is that in Kagawa Prefecture ( on the island of Shikoku) the Mochi ( which is round) contains AN (餡)- sweet adzuki beans!.

Also, in the Kinki Region ( Nara and Kyoto), the soup is made of white miso paste,

Since in Tsukuba there are  residents who have come from all over Japan, I have always thought it would be fun to have a ZONI event in which the various types of New Year`s soup would be made and served at one place.

Anyway, I hope you get a chance to taste O-Sechi and O-Zoni. Though you can buy the former, the latter is pretty much only made at home. But I think if you mention that you are interested in trying some New Year`s soup with MOCHI to a Japanese friend, that just might bring you some to try! 

And one more thing!

The chopsticks used for eating O-Sechi and O-Zoni are different from normal chopsticks- they are slender at BOTH ENDS! That is because while you are eating, the God of The New Year TOSHI-GAMI SAMA is eating with you! They are also often made of willow wood, which is believed o have the power to drive away evil!

Have a great year!

Junko Takasaki`s O-Zoni (2011) in the style of Iwaki (Fukushima Prefecture)-Taro,Carrots, burdock, fried tofu, mushrooms, leaks and chicken in a soy sauce based broth- topped with citron (yuzu) peel shavings

5 Comments

• At January 2, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu!

  Then,「Kotoshi Mo Douzo Yorosiku Onegaishimasu」(rather ritual expression, we very often used this one, literally meaning: Wish your same good relationship with me this year too; but this one is rather merely a matter of routine. It depends upon the importance of the other party to the speaker.

  Mine one in this particular comment toward this Avi-san Kingdom is sincere!! How could one start making lie from the beginning of the New Year!!

  Recently I try to use this expression with sincerity, because there are few occasions for me to have to contact in business.

  Pensioner’s merit!!

  Like to introduce a You-Tube Osyougatu-song, very newly made 2011.1.1

  You-Tube

  お正月の歌 「1月1日」 唱歌 [ 歌詞 ]

  rough traslation

  ①As the first day of the New Year, we should worship endless this World

  Build Pine-Bamboo decorations by gate by gate, it is joyful day

  ②--worship beauty of Mt Fuji-------

• At January 3, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Mamoru-San! A sincere KOTOSHI MO YORSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU to you, too. Please continue sending your interesting memories and insights to TsukuBlog. They are valuable for anyone interested in Japanese culture!

  I have an interesting story about the custom of saying YOROSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU at the beginning of the new year.It is also an illusration of why you should never DIRECTLY TRANSLATE( if possible) from your own language when you are speaking in another.

  Many years ago, a Japanese friend of mine, a medical doctor,was in the US for one year working at a hospital. At the beginning of January he made the rounds to all his colleagues and other staff to make a proper New Year`s greeting, which for a Japanese person is AKEMASHITE OMEDETO GOZAIMASU,and then KOTOSHI MO YORSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU.

  Now the first greeting, which literally means CONGRATULATION UPON THE OPENING OF THE NEW YEAR, has a well known English equivalent- Happy New Year.

  The second expression, however, has NO ENGLISH EQUIVALENT, so at a loss as to what to say, my friend translated directly saying to each doctor, nurse, etc he greeted: PLEASE BE KIND TO ME AGAIN THIS YEAR!

  Since Americans do not say anything even resembling this expression at the new year, ( or at any other time, really), those he greeted were surprised, puzzled, and sometimes outright worried- their faces sayinf what does this guy WANT from me!

  When my friend, after having realized that he caused some discomfort by using this expression asked me what he should have said, all I could say was: We (Americans)have no equivalent of the expression YOROSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU. I then suggested more typical New Year`s greetings such as: Have a Happy and Healthy Year, etc.

  The problem of using YOROSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU extends well beyond New Year`s time, because the Japanese use this expression everyday in a variety of situations.

  For Japanese people speaking in English, I would recommend just saying NOTHING ( or maybe a simple thank you)at the point at which they naturally want to add YOSHIKU ONEGAI SHIMASU.

  And for foreign students of Japanese, I would recommend not forgetting to use the expression in the MANY situatuations in which it is used- and there are MANY!- especially when meeting someone. or when saying good bye to someone with whom you have a continuing relationship!

  For people who can converse freely in both English and Japanese there is a simple solution when speaking or writing in English. You can mix languages and say:

  Have a Happy and Healthy New Year!

  Yoroshiku Onegai Shimasu!

• At January 11, 2011, alice wrote:

  Could you please explain the meaning of date-maki. Some think that it is related to the feudal lord, Date while others say that it's the fashionable wear during an auspicious occasions in ancient times. I am confused!

• At January 11, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Hi Alice. This is a good question. There is no ONE certain theory regarding the origin of the name of the egg-and-fishpaste-rolls shaped to form a swirl are called DATE MAKI, or why they are included among the New Year`s dished (O-Sechi).

  Some say these were a favorite dish of the great daimyo ( feudal lord) Date Masamune. This would be a one possible reason to include them in the osechi since they give symbolic connection to a great and powerful man.

  However, the word Date, deriving from the said daimyo`s name, also came to mean stylish, showy, and extravagant, in general. Maybe since Date Maki, which contain egg yolks (once a luxury item), were called DATE MAKI to mean FANCY ROLLS.

  The piece of womens clothing you refer to would have the same etymology.

  Another interesting symbolic meaning attributed to Date Maki are that their roll shape represents classical Japanese literature, which instead of being written in BOOKS was written and illustrated on SCROLLS.

  The Date Maki would thus represent a desire to become more cultured or learned in the classics.

• At January 12, 2011, alice wrote:

  Thanks Avi,

  You have done your homework well! To tell you the truth, some Japanese (even my mother-in-law) I asked doesn't know that there is a difference in otoso. In the Kanto regions, it is plain sweet sake whereas in the Kansai regions, otoso served is sweet herbal sake.

The trip was organized by the International Students Center of the University of Tsukuba. It was a 3-days hop to the three (3) prefectures of Tohoku namely, Iwate, Miyagi and Yamagata.

The first prefecture we went to was Iwate. Take a peek at the photos I took. (1. Inside a restaurant 2. One of the temples in Chusonji compund 3. Miyazawa Kenji Museum)

Next destination was Matsushima, Miyagi prefecture. (1. Akiu Ootaki 2. Inside a museum 3. During the bay cruise)

And the last one was Yamagata prefecture. (1. Inside a museum 2. Yamagata ken souvenir shop 3. Cherry fuits)

Although the trip was a little bit tiresome by just sitting inside the bus, the tour guide's efforts were worth mentioning, trying to be awake and genki (energetic and lively) all the time while all of us are dead tired slumbering in our seats.

The full of memorable stories museums in Iwate, the wonderful splashing waters of the Ootaki in Miyagi, and the tasteful cherries in Yamagata, all made the 3 days trip worth treasuring.

For the rest of the photos in bigger resolution, you may view them in my Zooomr album.

======
dimaks blogs at skamid.com

2 Comments

• At July 13, 2007, Vivian wrote:

  the cherries look absolutely scrumptious!

• At July 13, 2007, dimaks wrote:

  Too bad, nobody is allowed to bring a fukuro and stock some in for a bring home :) You got no option but the omeyage shops across the road.

Well, as you might expect, in Japan things are a bit more complex. On the last days of December, when meeting people for what is probably the last time of the year, the Japanese part with an expression which is equivalent to what is used in most languages, YOI O TOSHI O, or Have a Good New Year.

What is difficult to remember ( for foreigners) when speaking Japanese, however, is that this expression is only used UP TO midnight of December 31st. Once the clock strikes midnight, for the next seven days or so, people greet each other with AKEMASHITE OMEDETO- GOZAIMASU, or in its simplest and most casual form OMEDETO-.

Since in modern Japanese OMEDETO is an expression used in very much the same way as the English word CONGRATULATIONS, this New Year`s greeting could now be literally translated as- CONGRATULATIONS UPON THE (OCCASSION OF THE) OPENING (OF THE NEW YEAR).

Besides the fact that there are different greetings for BEFORE and AFTER the ringing in of the new year, both these greetings sound quite usual, aand at first glance simply like two slighty different ways of saying the same thing. 

However, a look at the etymology of the word OMEDETO- shows OMEDETO to have quite an unusual meaning for a New Year`s greeting . It is also quite revealing about the roots of Japanese culture.

 Omedeto, originally derived from the Kanji characters  ome (お芽) de (出） to (度う), which together mean: May your sprouts appear, or May your sprouts sprout forth.

In other words, the opening of the new year, which before the Japanese adopted the Western Calendar took place sometime in February, was a time to pray for good crops and the coming forth of vegetation in general, in the upcoming year.

This use of this expression as a New Year`s Greeting  by the aristocrats and courtiers and the members of the Imperial Family was a reflection of the fact that it was the role of the Emperor , as a high priest of the nation of sorts, to carry out rituals and pray for bountiful crops. I think it could even be said that the romantic ( sexual) daliances so famously associated with the court,(which are celebrated at New Year`s by many Japanese through the card game Hyakunin Isshu- which is based on a collection of classical poetry) were in fact also believed to be part of the ritual function to guarantee success in agriculture throughout the land.

It goes without saying that it would have been only natural for farmers in early spring ( at the old New Year) to greet each other with- may your seeds sprout! 

The connection of New Year`s to agriculture is still clearly evident by the fact that even in big cities Japanese families put up New Year`s decorations consisting of rice stalks and other plant matter. These decorations, and O-Shogatsu( New Year`s) itself, are a celebration of LIFE, RENEWAL and the BOUNTY of NATURE.

So on the occassion of this New Year`s Day, Id like to wish you a big OMEDETO-

may all your seeds take root and flourish!

And if you are interested I have written about an obscure but fascinating Japanese custom- to refrai from killing mice during the first 3 days of the year, during which the little critters are called YOME GA KIMI (嫁が君):

http://blog.alientimes.org/2009/01/traps-are-back-up-as-three-day-new-years-moratorium-on-mouse-catching-ends/

1 Comments

• At January 1, 2011, NoVo (Nora) wrote:

  OMEDETOOO!

  So, for such connected reason, I received a bag with vegetables from my neighbor with

  'Akemashite Omedetoo Gozaimasu'!))

  Happy New Year with lot's of sunnies smiles from the children first!

I have said it again and again. Japanese culture and the Japanese language are endlessly interesting. The deeper you look the more surprising it gets.To illustrate this point once more, this time on the the first day of the new year, I`d like to talk about something which in most countries and most languages is quite simple- New Year`s Greetings.

Well, as you might expect, in Japan things are a bit more complex. On the last days of December, when meeting people for what is probably the last time of the year, the Japanese part with an expression which is equivalent to what is used in most languages, YOI OTOSHI O, or Have a Good New Year.

What is difficult to remember ( for foreigners) when speaking Japanese, however, is that this expression is only used UP TO midnight of December 31st. Once the clock strikes midnight, for the next seven days or so, people greet each other with AKEMASHITE OMEDETO- GOZAIMASU, or in its simplest and most casual form OMEDETO-.

Since in modern Japanese OMEDETO is an expression used in very much the same way as the English word CONGRATULATIONS, this New Year`s greeting could now be literally translated as- CONGRATULATIONS UPON THE (OCCASSION OF THE) OPENING (OF THE NEW YEAR).

Besides the fact that there are different greetings for BEFORE and AFTER the ringing in of the new year, both these greetings sound quite usual, aand at first glance simply like two slighty different ways of saying the same thing.

However, a look at the etymology of the word OMEDETO- shows OMEDETO to have quite an unusual meaning for a New Year`s greeting . It is also quite revealing about the roots of Japanese culture.

Omedeto, originally derived from the Kanji characters ome (お芽) de (出） to (度う), which together mean: May your sprouts appear, or May your sprouts sprout forth.

In other words, the opening of the new year, which before the Japanese adopted the Western Calendar took place sometime in February, was a time to pray for good crops and the coming forth of vegetation in general, in the upcoming year.

This use of this expression as a New Year`s Greeting by the aristocrats and courtiers and the members of the Imperial Family was a reflection of the fact that it was the role of the Emperor , as a high priest of the nation of sorts, to carry out rituals and pray for bountiful crops. I think it could even be said that the romantic ( sexual) daliances so famously associated with the court,(which are celebrated at New Year`s by many Japanese through the card game Hyakunin Isshu- which is based on a collection of classical poetry) were in fact also believed to be part of the ritual function to guarantee success in agriculture throughout the land.

It goes without saying that it would have been only natural for farmers in early spring ( at the old New Year) to greet each other with- may your seeds sprout!

The connection of New Year`s to agriculture is still clearly evident by the fact that even in big cities Japanese families put up New Year`s decorations consisting of rice stalks and other plant matter. These decorations, and O-Shogatsu ( New Year`s) itself, are a celebration of LIFE, RENEWAL and the BOUNTY of NATURE.

So on the occassion of this New Year`s Day, Id like to wish you a big OMEDETO-

may all your seeds take root and flourish!

And if you are interested I have written about an obscure but fascinating Japanese custom- to refrai from killing mice during the first 3 days of the year, during which the little critters are called YOME GA KIMI (嫁が君):

http://blog.alientimes.org/2009/01/traps-are-back-up-as-three-day-new-years-moratorium-on-mouse-catching-ends/

2 Comments

• At January 1, 2012, Rurousha wrote:

  Hallo! This is a long-time fan of your blog finally leaving her first comment to say happy dragon year! I'm looking forward to your stories in the next 12 months!

• At January 2, 2012, ginni-California North Coast wrote:

  Omedeto! Happy New Year - Avi & All!

  So - please tell this 'foreigner' trying to get it right - can you give the kanji for "Omedoto" pretty please? I'll put it in my Japanese Glossary! Thanks ever so much - and Have A Really Good One! May You Be Happy!

  ginni, California North Coast

  you gave this:

  > originally derived from the Kanji characters ome (お芽) de (出） to (度う) <

An old grave with flowers for O-Higan

As the daylight hours grow longer, and the air, soil, and water gradually begin to warm up, all around us things begin to stir. Plants, animals, and humans gradually emerge from their state of FUYUGOMORI (冬篭り, hibernation, holing up or bundling up for the winter), and by the week of the spring equinox, when daytime and nighttime hours are just about equal, Tsukuba (and the rest of the Kanto Plain) is bursting with life and activity -- EVEN THE GRAVEYARDS !

This is because, in Japan, the two equinox days, and the three days before and after them, are a traditional time to visit the family graves (O-Haka Mairi , お墓参り), clean them and the area around them, and make offerings of flowers, incense, and even the favorite foods and/or beverages of the deceased. Thus during the equinox weeks, or O-Higan (お彼岸) , the cemeteries of Japan are teeming with activity (sweeping, sprinkling, and praying), smells (various types of incense) and color (all sorts of unusual flowers left as offerings).

Unusual mound type grave in Tsukuba

Though the word HIGAN (彼岸) is of Indian origin and refers to THE OTHER SHORE (as opposed to THIS SHORE, the world we live in), or the Buddhist Paradise, this way of observing the equinox days by visiting the family graves is UNIQUELY Japanese. It seems to have developed as an amalgamation of traditional ancestor worship, ancient agricultural rites, and Buddhism.

In ancient times, farmers would visit the graves of their ancestors on the equinox days, in spring, just before preparing the fields for planting, and then again in autumn, just before the harvest, and pray that the spirits intervene in helping to bring about abundant crops. After the introduction of Buddhism, and especially the concept of the Saiho-Gokuraku-Jodo (the Western Paradise), the  equinoxes became more significant still, as the sun sets almost exactly DUE WEST on those days, giving the universe a perfect alignment with paradise.

The first recorded Buddhist ceremonies referred to as O-Higan were held in the early ninth century by the Emperor Heizei, in an effort to pacify the spirit of the Emperor Sudo, who had died after having been accused of involvement in an assassination. However, some scholars suggest that Prince Shotoku (Shotoku Taishi 573-621), an early and enthusiastic promoter of Buddhism, held Buddhist style rites on the day that the Japanese traditionally worshiped their ancestors, in order to link the two.

It is also interesting that in the Heian Period, Higan lasted for eleven days after the equinox days. It was only in the 1830s that Higan began to be celebrated for a one-week period, the 3 days before and after the equinoxes. The reason for the additional six days around the actual equinox days is that they are meant to represent the Six Cardinal Virtues of Buddhism (rokuharamitsu, 六波羅蜜).

I have written about O-Higan before, so for additional information please have a look at my other articles (e.g. In Line With the Far Side) and for some more on this season, see Bitter Herbs in this Season’s Sweet.

O-Higan Offerings

A Bonenkai in Tsukuba

In Japan, there is a time of year when-

Mornings:  -throbbing, hungover heads, grogilly take note of  expanding waistlines.  Nights: the Japanese restaurants and IZAKAYA are fuller and more boisterous than usual , while outside taxis and DAIKO ( surrogate driver services) predominate on the roads. Later into the night, you are SURE to find more than a few salarymen lying passed out somewhere, especially in entertainment districts, around train stations, or on the trains themselves!

Yes, it is December, and Japan`s BONENKAI ( Year-end Party) season has come rolling around again, lightening your wallets ( and  heads), weighing down your tummies, and filling up your schedules. And except for those who want to diet or save money, in other words, those who attend out of obligation ( GIRI)- there are lots of good times to be had.

As you might have guessed from the above, these parties, which might be held anytime in December ( and in recent years even in late November- when its cheaper!), always involve lots of eating and often ( especially for those held at night) the consumption of LARGE quantities of alcohol. They could be held at either lunchtime ( for housewives) or at night, at western style restaurants or much more frequently at IZAKAYA- Japanese-style restaurant pubs.

Since these parties are held by GROUPS, and the Japanese often consider themselves as belonging to several groups at once- company sections, clubs, hobby groups, teams or classes, family, a circle of old friends or even just a pair of friends, etc..., one person can often have a heavy load of BONENKAI at the end of the year.

For a foreigner living in Japan with a few hobbies, a job and some private English classes on the side, the party frequency can reach dangerous levels, sometimes  with a string of days doubled up for lunch and dinner! Not very good for the liver or the cholesterol levels!

Since these parties ( especially the nocturnal ones), involve so much eating and drinking ( with the total cost usually being  added up and split evenly among the members without regard to how much you actually ate or drank), you usually end up spending alot of money. Seven thound Yen for one night is not unusual. New arrivals to Japan will often be shocked to find that they will have to pay ( and not be treated) for the BONENKAI of certain company English classes ( the companies might subsidize the classes, but not the parties!). Many foreigners trying to save up some money try to avoid these parties, but my advise would be, if you want to experience Japan to the fullest- go with the flow and shell out the dough!

Izakaya Bonenkai in Tsukuba

Bonenkai （忘年会) literally means a Forget-the-Year-Party, and the Japanese dictionary  explains that its intended function, as expressed in the name, is to help participants forget all the troubles and hardships of the past year.

Looking deeper at the expression BONENKAI, we can find, as we can with so many things  Japanese, a Chinese source. The great Philosopher Chuang Tzu ( 369 BC-286BC), So-shi ( 荘子) in Japanese, advised his disciples to FORGET YOUR AGE ( forget the years), FORGET DISTINCTIONS (忘年忘義...）! Wise advice indeed, for those seeking the way!

So it seems that Bo-nen (忘年) might have originally meant to forget your age, as the Chinese character for year and age are the same. It is also interesting to note that traditionally in China and Japan EVERYONE celebrated their birthday at the New Year. Thus we can imagine the aristocrats and noblemen of ancient capitals of Nara and Heian-Kyo ( Kyoto) , emulating Chinese culture by forgetting their age at the end of the year, just before they aged another year, with plenty of wine, food and song.

Over the years, however, this original meaning has become completely lost, and though BONENKAI participants certainly DO forget alot with all the drinking they do, these parties probably involve alot more reminiscing than active forgetting.

What Bonenkai do reflect, in my opinion, is the strong consciousness in Japan of making a clear spiritual distinction between calendar years ( as opposed to school years or fiscal years) . I am still surprised how in early January, Japanese would refer to two weeks earlier in late December as LAST YEAR etc. This expression, along with -NEXT YEAR- in English, usually connote a long time into the past or future, while in Japan the days before and after New Year Day are a year apart.

Anyway, what I want to say is that with each of their social CIRCLES, the Japanese like to make a clear symbolic ending for the new year, and will often meet again with the same friends for SHINENKAI- New Year Parties.

Another word you might want to remember is a NO-KAI ( 納会), which is a company`s or other organizations official end of the year party, at which a toast will be made by the boss saying- thanks for your efforts- OTSUKARESAMA DESHITA- and then all present will clap their hands in three rapid sets of three, And with that the year is officially closed.

I would like to go on and on like this about Japan`s unique year-end parties, but as you might guess I have a BONENKAI tonight and have to get ready!

To all readers of Tsukublog, a hearty Otsukaresama deshita !

and enjoy your BONENKAI!

1 Comments

• At December 27, 2009, willie wrote:

  Thanks for this informative essay-it will probably come in handy very soon.

The most important things to remember are (1) to withdraw some money before the banks and ATMs close and (2) to make sure you take your garbage out before the trucks stop coming!

Garbage

The last day of garbage collection is tomorrow (Monday, December 29). The next garbage day will be Saturday, January 3 and burnable garbage will be collected on that day in all parts of Tsukuba. The Clean Center is also closed from December 30 to January 2 so if tomorrow is not a burnable garbage day in your area and you cannot take your garbage to the Clean Center, you have to keep it until January 3.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Joyo Bank

Every bank is different, so I will just mention the situation for Joyo. The banks will be operating pretty much as normal on Monday (29) and Tuesday (30). They will then be closed from the 31 to the 4th and open up again on the 5th.

ATMs will have limited or no service between December 30 and January 4. All ATMs will be closed on January 1. This includes accessing your Joyo account through an ATM at 7-11. Some ATMs will be in operation on the other dates, but not all, and the ones that are in operation will mostly be on "holiday" hours. Regular ATM service will resume on Monday, January 5.

Online banking will be completely unavailable on January 1 and will have limited availability on December 31, and January 2 to 4th. All online transactions that occur after December 30 will not be processed until January 5. (So if you want to send money to someone by online furikomi and you want it to arrive before January 5, you will have to send it on December 30 at the latest.)
Sources: http://www.joyobank.co.jp/top/20081217.html and http://www.joyobank.co.jp/access-j/info.html

Postal Banking

Postal banking will be available as usual on Monday (29) and Tuesday (30). Teller services will not be available between December 31 and January 4. Regular teller services will resume on January 5.

Postal ATMs will be available as usual on Monday (29) and Tuesday (30) and they will close early (between 5pm and 8pm) on Wednesday (31). ATMs will not be available between January 1 and 3. They will open again between 7am and 9am on January 4. They will operate as usual on January 5.

Online banking will not be available from 11:50pm on December 31 to 6:30am on January 4.
Source: http://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/news/2008/news_id000345.html

City Hall

Tsukuba City Hall is closed from December 27 to January 4. The Sakura Branch office will be open on Sunday January 4 for limited services relating to issuing certificates such as inkan certificates or certificates of registered matters for foreigners. All branches will resume normal operations on January 5.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Library

Tsukuba Public Library is closed from December 28 to January 5.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Community Centers

All community centers (公民館, kominkan) will be closed from December 29 to January 3.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Children's Centers

All children's centers (児童館, jidokan) will be closed from December 27 to January 4.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Tsukuba Express

The trains will continue to run throughout the holidays, but will be on "holiday" schedules from December 30 to January 4.

Some extra trains have been scheduled on December 31. The last train that will reach Tsukuba on the night of December 31 will leave at 12:40am from Akihabara and arrive in Tsukuba at 1:37am. It will stop at every station. (Three trains will leave after that time, but they will all terminate at Moriya and will not come to Tsukuba.)

The last train to leave Tsukuba will be at 11:47pm and it will arrive in Akihabara at 12:45am, stopping at every station.

Source: https://www.mir.co.jp/uploads/20081211092155.pdf

TsukuBus

TsukuBus will run as usual.
Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

Emergency Services

Call an ambulance (119) if there is an emergency where time is of the essence. In case you ever need to call an ambulance, you should memorize how to say your address in Japanese, and keep a copy of your address in romaji posted near the phone or on the refrigerator so others can call from your house.

Call 029-241-4199 to find out where to bring a sick person whose condition is not in need of urgent attention.

There is also a hotline to call for advice about whether your sick child needs immediate medical care or not: 029-254-9900 (or #8000 from a regular phone or cellphone).

In all cases, you will most likely have to speak Japanese.

The following hospitals will have some services available on the following days (but it is probably better to call 029-241-4199 to find out where to bring a person first).

December 30: Tsukuba Kinen Hospital
January 1: Tsukuba Soai Hospital
January 2: Tsukuba Gakuen Hospital, Tsukuba Kinen Hospital
January 3: Tsukuba Chuo Hospital
January 4: Tsukuba Soai Hospital

Source: http://www.city.tsukuba.ibaraki.jp/266/003391.html

I hope you have a very happy holiday! (Just don't forget to get some money out before the banks close!!!)

Poster promoting EHO-MAKI for Setsubun

Convenience stores and supermarkets have had a huge impact on Japan and they play a major role in the shaping of  contemporary Japanese culture and lifestyles. And though in many ways it could be said that these stores are helping to bring about the END of TRADITIONAL JAPAN, it could also be said that they are unlikely repositories of certain aspects of Japanese culture , always displaying traditional sweets of the season and never missing a chance to promote and sell foods and other paraphanalia related to traditional events and festivals. The quest for new products to sell has also led to some innovative ideas which have spiced up certain events. An example of this can be seen if you go to any combini or supermarket (supa) in the 3 or 4 weeks leading up to February 3 , which is the day on which the SESTUBUN festival is celebrated.

Sestubun (節分) , is sometimes called the BEAN THROWING FESTIVAL in English. This is because the main feature of the event is the throwing of soy beans , as a way of excorsizing evil and bad luck. In homes with small children, the man of the house usually dons a paper DEMON MASK (available at combinis and supas) on the evening of the 3rd and the children proceed to hurl the beans at him crying out - ONI WA SOTO. They then continue throwing beans in various directions, shouting FUKU WA UCHI- good fortune in ! Family members then go on to eat the same number of beans as their age. This ritual is called MAME MAKI (bean throwing), and it is also performed at various temples and shrines around Japan. It is usual for adults who are in their UNLUCKY AGES(especially men of 42 and women of 33) to attend these bean throwing events as a form of YAKU YOKE (purification for those of unlucky age). Famous temples and shrines often invite celebrities (sumo wrestlers, movie stars etc) to hurl the beans, and these scenes are often televised. Just watch the news on Tuesday night (the night of this years mame maki).

Nearly all convenience stores and supermarkets have for the past few weeks been displaying a wide array of demon masks and soy bean packages .

Another custom, though far less popular these days, is the the posting of a sardine head and fit onto thorny leaves called hiiragi on the front door. This is done to keep evil and bad fortune away. It is believed that the foul odor of the fish and the uninviting thorns should be effective in keeping any demons OUT. Supermarkets, including the one in the basement of Tsukuba`s Seibu Department Store have been promoting sardines for the making of these protective wreaths.

 Hiiragi, and especially bean throwing have been the generally accepted, standard ways of celebrating setsubun throughout Japan.

However, in recent years combinis and supas have been vigorously promoting an ADDITIONAL WAY of celebrating setsubun. Well... new to all people who have never lived in Osaka(and other parts of KANSAI).

I`m talking of course of the large sushi rolls called EHO-MAKI (恵方巻), which can be seen in promotional posters all over town. These oversized nori-maki (they look  like quite a mouthfull) are to be eaten by each family member, in silence, while facing the lucky direction of this year(according to the traditional Japanese almanac). Though most people in Tsukuba had never heard of this ritual until recently, many now reserve their EHO-MAKI weeks before setsubun. More purchase them on the day of the festival.

This year`s (2009) LUCKY DIRECTION

Eating Eho maki while facing the lucky direction, is in fact a custom, though not very old, which originated(along with so many other great business ideas) in Osaka. Osakan friends living in Tsukuba tell me that they had faithfully eaten their setsubun sushi-rolls every year of their lives, and had imagined that ALL Japanese did the same. Some Tsukubans of Osakan birth used to have Eho Maki sent  them each year by their mothers, before they became available nation-wide.

Nobody Ive spoken to could actually explain the significance of the sushi-rolls, but my feeling is that by facing the lucky direction, and slowly and silently taking the EHO -MAKI in, the good energies of this years lucky direction are absorbed by the antennae-like roll. Of course, these sushi- rolls are also chock-full of nutritious fillings (these vary according to price), including egg, seafood etc., to help keep the family healthy through the last weeks (or months!) of cold weather.

Of course, the most important point for families is that the EHO MAKI are fun and DELICIOUS!

Let me tell you a little more about setsubun. This word (節分) in fact means SEASONAL TURNING POINT which then means that traditionally there were four setsubuns in Japan, one for the beginning of each season. Nowadays however, only the day marking the coming of spring is acknowledged by the general public with special rituals. Though it is still quite cold,the first day of spring (rishun) is on February 4th according to the traditional calendar. Before the Japanese converted their calendar to the one used by Europeans, a day began at sunset on the previous evening. That is why setsubun is celebrated on the evening of the 3rd. This was considered to be the start of the next day- RISHUN.

The ancient Chinese believed that these seasonal turning points were times when the world and its inhabitants were susceptible to attacks by evil forces. For protection they would carry out a ceremony which the Japanese call TSUINA( 追儺 ), in which ritual bows and arrows were used to excorsize demons and bad fortune.

This ceremony was introduced to Japan  as a way of trying to stop an epidemic during the reign of Emperor Mommu (697-707), and during the Heian Period(794-1192), it was carried out anually in the  Court, with bow and arrow, on the Traditional New Years Eve.

During the Muromachi Period(1392-1573), the use of bow and arrow gave way to the throwing of beans (though some temples, especially in Kyoto, use the old excorsizing techniques), and the custom began to filter down to the masses. Bean throwing on the eve of RISHUN became a standard part of Japanese life in the Edo Period (1600-1868), and remains so to this day.

The use of beans is probably related to the DEMON EXTERMINATING CEREMONY (鬼退治の際, oni taiji no sai) held at Kurama Yama , Kyoto. According to a legend, the God Bishamon recommended throwing beans into the eyes, as an effective way of combating demons. Demon Eyes can be written with the characters 魔目(which is read - ma me, a homophone for beans) and  this sounds the same as 魔滅、which means DEMISE OF THE DEMON.

Also as anyone with an interest in traditional Indian food might know, beans are believed to have special life force powers.

Another interesting point is that the reason you eat the same number of beans as your age (and one for good luck) is that before the Japanese calendar changed to the Gregorian, February was the Month of New Years (usually) and thus all Japanese considered themselves one year older (did you know that the money given to children on New Years called TOSHI DAMA, is not New Years money(toshi can mean year) , but AGE MONEY (toshi can also mean age). Thus people celebrated their BIRTHDAY by eating their ages in beans.

For seniors who dont want to or cant eat dozens of beans, it is customary to put their age worth into a tea cup, pour tea over it and drink the tea.

Eating these beans is also considered to be protection against illness and bad luck.

If you would like to celebrate setsubun this year, the convenience store or supermarket will provide you with everything you need. Bean throwing should begin after the sun goes down. A parent puts the demon mask on and goes to the front door. The demon should stand outside and be pelted by the kids who cry ONI WA SOTO.Then throw beans inside the house shouting FUKU WA UCHI !. I once brought a mask and beans with me to New York and did mame maki with my nieces and nephew. It went over very well. If youve got kids, Id say- give it a try!

2 Comments

• At February 2, 2009, Kevin wrote:

  Thank you for sharing this with us. Your article is one of the best written that I have found on this subject.

  Your site is bookmarked and I look forward to reading your blog!

• At April 10, 2009, robin d gill wrote:

  Just searched for bow & arrow connection with the oni wa soto fuku wa uchi rite as it is in an old kyouka (comic poem) that will be in Mad In Translation. Good writing -- i was only familiar with the hamaya -- only wish there was more and, as it is a blog, your name, or if translated the name of the writer/editors and translator.

  敬愚

In Canada, we celebrate the birth of our Queen on (or before) May 24. This date is actually Queen Victoria's birthday (May 24, 1819), and not the birthday of our current monarch, Queen Elizabeth (born April 21, 1926). May 24 is considered Queen Elizabeth's "official" birthday. I usually call this day "Victoria Day", but it also has other names. In Ontario, we sometimes call it "May Two Four" because "Two Four" is slang for a case of twenty four bottles of beer, which is the usual amount of beer that people buy for a party. After the long, cold winter, Victoria Day weekend gives people a chance to go outside again and relax. In Canada, it is common for people to have cottages or trailers, but they are often not winterized, so the Victoria Day weekend is the first time that people go to their cottages or trailers in the year. There is a lot of cleaning to be done on that weekend, but we try not to let that interfere with the party spirit. In other parts of Canada, this weekend is apparently known as "May Long" or "May Run". (I have never heard these terms before, but I just found them on Wikipedia.)

I always assumed that monarchs were expected to have an official birthday that didn't move around, so I was surprised to find out that December 23 is the current Emperor's actual birthday. I like the fact that everyone gets a holiday on that day, and that the previous Emperor's birthday has also been preserved.

You can read more about the Emperor's birthday and Victoria Day on Wikipedia.

My toshikoshi soba for the end of 2010- there was a one hour wait to get these noodles- but WELL worth it!

 

After sunset on December 31st, families all across Japan will be sitting down to eat buckwheat noodles, which for the occassion are called TOSHIKOSHI SOBA ( literally,  passing-from-one-year-to-the-next-soba).

This custom became widespread among the merchant class sometime during the Edo Period ( 1600-1868) . It was obviously a convient FAST FOOD, for the busiest time of the year, and this might be a major reason why this custom has remained so universal in Japan ( though there are some regions where other Toshikoshi dishes are eaten, and I might add that buckwheat allergies are not rare, and obviously families with sufferers would opt for something else). 

However, just as with everything else that has become a staple of tradition in Japan, there is a symbolic significance in eating these noodles on New Year`s Eve. In fact there is more than one!

First, noodles are long and represent long life.

Second, buckwheat noodles break easilly, representing a clean break with the old year.

Third, buckwheat noodles are thought be usefull in cleaning out the digestive system, and thus give the body a good end of the year cleansing. 

Fourth, in the Edo Period Japanese goldsmiths used buckwheat dough-balls to gather up gold dust from the floor or table ( which was then separated in water). Buckwheat therefore became a symbol for attracting gold ( wealth).

We can thus see that it is NOT only because they are convenient and delicious that eating  soba on New Years Eve has become such a popular tradition!

It is also important to note that in the Edo Period, that is before the Japanese adopted the Western-Style calendar, eating toshikoshi soba actually took place as one year changed into the next. This is because according to the traditional Japanese calendar, one day ends and the begins at SUNSET. Thus, the New Year would ring in the evening- just about dinner time. In fact, the last sunset of the year also used to come quite a bit later, because according to the old calendar New Year`s was celebrated sometime in February ( as Chinese New Year still is).

You can find soba on sale at any supermarket or even convenience store for tonight. Of course, getting your noodles from a good soba restaurant is even a better idea, as they will probably be more delicious. I will pick up mine at ICHII, in Konda, Tsukuba.

I have written more on SOBA here:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2009/10/ibarakis-rolling-fields-of-buckwheat-%e8%95%8e%e9%ba%a6%e7%95%91-almost-ready-for-harvesting/

(Also remember that buckwheat noodles are presented to neighbors when moving into a new house or apartment. One reason for this is that the word SOBA also means NEXT TO. Another, is the fact that noodles are long and slim- a way of saying, we are now close to each other, but lets not be THAT close! 

Home-made soba noodles and dumplings (soba gaki)

Regular soba noodles made with 80% buckwheat flour on the left- and JU-WARI soba made consisting of 100% buckwheat ( ICHII restaurant in Konda, Tsukuba)

1 Comments

• At January 8, 2011, alice wrote:

  You ate the soba cold? I first ate the toshikoshi soba topped with tempura, cooked by my mother-in-law.