As Chinese cultural influence in Japan waned and the Japanese gained more self-confidence over the ensuing centuries, the customs regarding the celebration of longevity, along with almost everything else adopted from China, were eventually given a uniquely Japanese twist. Records show that the still standard series of eight special birthdays celebrated between (and including) the 60th and 100th years had been firmly established among the Japanese ruling warrior class and the aristocracy by the Muromachi Period (1338-1573). Instead of merely following the original Chinese lead of celebrating the start of each new age-decade, the Japanese also selected certain ages from which auspicious (or amusing) meanings could be derived from how the ages were written in Kanji characters. Thus, today we have the following.

The 60th year (kanreki, 還暦), meaning a return to the beginning of the cycle, as it heralds completing the path through the full five cycles of the Sino-Japanese zodiac (jikkan-junishi), and coming back once again to the original combination of signs that you were born with. This event is commonly celebrated throughout East-Asia.

The 70th year (koki, 古希), the name of which derives from a popular verse by the great Chinese poet Tufu (Toho, 杜甫, in Japanese). The poem goes: Jinsei nanaju korai mare nari (人生七十古来稀なり),meaning that (in those days) reaching the age of 70 was a rare occurrence.

The 77th year (kiju, 喜寿）, which was celebrated because an archaic form of writing the character ki (good fortune, this form cannot be written out with this computer), can be broken down to the components 七　十　七、 which means 77. Because of this round-about connection, that age is seen as related to GOOD FORTUNE. 

The 80th year (sanju, 傘寿). The character 傘 (umbrella) can be broken down to components which can be rearranged as 八十(eighty).

The 81st year (hanju,半寿). The character 半 (half) can be broken down and rearranged as 八十一, or 81. However, celebrating hanju has become extremely rare these days.

The 88th year (beiju,米寿). The character for rice, 米, which symbolizes wealth, nutrition and other wholesome things can be broken down to its basic components and rearranged as 八十八、or 88.

The 90th year (sotsuju, 卒寿). The character 卒 (graduation) can be rearranged as 九十、or 90.

The 99th year (hakuju,白寿）. When the element meaning one (一) is removed from the top of the character 百 (100), you get the character haku (白,white). Thus haku is 100 minus one. In other words 99.

Then, at the 100th year, there is hyakuga (百賀), and after that a celebration every year (hyaku-ichi no ga, etc...).

During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the custom of celebrating these special ages filtered down to the common people, though even for the easy living elite it probably still remained quite rare at that time to celebrate anything beyond Kanreki (the 60th year).

Since Kanareki marked the completion of a full journey through the oriental zodiac and a rebirth, or return to childhood, 60 was traditionally the age at which men would retire. The main feature of the kanreki banquet was the presentation of a red coat (chanchanko) and cap (zukin). This style of garment symbolizes a return to childhood. The red color represented warmth and was also believed to have powers to ward off evil and bad luck. The cushion (zabuton) on which the guest of honor sits, should also be red. A red fan might also be provided. You can find everything you need online.

These days of course, most 60-year-olds in Japan are still working, and most likely feel that their whole life still lies in front of them. They might be embarrassed by the silly chanchanko and cap. Still, if you decide to give a sweater or blanket, shirt or tie, red would be an appropriate (traditionally speaking) color.

For Koki (70) and Kiju (77) celebrations, the color purple is considered appropriate, as it is the mostly highly regarded color in Sino-Japanese divination (omyodo). This color provides protective and curative benefits to those bodies which might just be starting to feel the aches and pains of age.

Though once extremely rare, sanju (80), hanju (81), and especially beiju (88) celebrations are now common events! The color for presents, clothing and cushions should be GOLDEN BROWN (kincha iro 金茶) or yellow. And since 88 years of age is associated with RICE (米,bei) with all its positive associations in Japanese culture, beiju celebrations are popular and feature several special gift items. Golden brown (or yellow) furoshiki or fukusa cloths and zabuton cushions with cranes or the character 米 on them are usual.

The most interesting traditional gift for beiju is a HATO NO TSUE (a walking stick with a pigeon carved on the handle). It seems that giving such a gift was practiced in the ancient Chinese and later Japanese courts. Among the reasons for such a gift being appropriate are that HATO (pigeon) can also be written using the characters 八 and 十, which can also mean 80. It is also said that pigeons do not choke (a serious problem for the elderly in Japan, especially with New Year's O-Mochi). These pigeon-handled walking sticks can be given at any of the  longevity celebrations for someone in their 80s. Have a look at a hato no tsue here.

For sotsuju (90) and hakuju (99) celebrations, the appropriate traditional color is white. Have a look at each age group color.

In contemporary Japan there are dozens of reference books available for those wanting to hold, or for those who have been invited to, a special LONGEVITY birthday celebration. They not only recommend appropriate gifts such as travel or restaurant coupons, ceramics or electronic equipment, but also detail the correct way to address the special festive envelopes and recommend appropriate amounts for cash gifts.

One thing that all these books agree on is that the most important point, especially for the older-age celebrations, is to bring family together, create a warm and festive atmosphere, and maybe have an extended family photo portrait taken. Commemorative gifts should also be given to all those who attend. These parties can be held at home, though usually a restaurant is reserved and special celebratory dishes served, for example fish (TAI) or sea bream.

This might all sound quite simple. However, a more detailed explanation of these customs might set your head spinning. For example, individual birthdays were never actually celebrated in Japan (except for a divination ceremony, isho mochi, held on the first birthday). All Japanese grew a year older on New Year's Day. Thus, these celebrations were not actually held on the celebrant's birthday, but on New Year's or another auspicious day. The situation now of course is quite different and the celebration of birthdays has become as popular (for younger people) as it is in the West.

Another complicated point is that until this century the Japanese considered themselves to be 1 year old at birth. If they were born a day before the New Year, they would be considered 2 years old after the New Year, when by contemporary standards they would be just 2 days old. The traditional way of counting ages is called KAZOE-DOSHI. Many older people still use this term when talking about age. In fact, while now the other longevity celebrations are usually based on Western-style age-counting (MAN NENREI), Kanreki (60) is still counted as 61 years in KAZOE DOSHI. If you are confused, you are not alone.

Anyway, with the average age in Japan skyrocketing, the events I've just told you a little about are being held more than ever before, by a huge margin. A celebration of the once extremely rare has  become commonplace.

1 Comments

• At October 25, 2008, Dan Waldhoff wrote:

  Aloha,

  I think that at about the same time(s) in ancient Western cultures (culture ?) life spans were considerably shorter (especially if one were a "heretic" in various Catholic eras or of Judaic persuasion during most of the eras intervening BCE to a relative few years ago). In any case, then or now, Japan is a good place to enjoy longevity!

  As always, thanks to Avi for doing the leg work. We are lucky to have been drawn here and luckier still to have an excellent Guide to the significant details of being here.

  Dan

By Avi Landau

1964 was a pivotal year in post-war Japanese history. With the inauguration of the first SHINKANSEN bullet train, the introduction of the first color TVs, and most importantly, the hosting of the Olympic Games, it was a year which now symbolizes Japan’s economic recovery and marks its return to the forefront of the international scene after a two decade period of frenzied rebuilding following the total devastation of WWII.

In 1966, the Japanese government designated October 10th as Taiiku no Hi (Sports Day) to commemorate the Games. If you are wondering why October was selected as a day to remember the Summer Olympics, you are not alone. The fact is, however, that in 1966, the Opening Ceremonies were held on the 10th of October! The wise decision to hold the Tokyo Summer Games in Autumn was made in deference to Japans cruelly humid summer weather (why wasn’t the same change made for Beijing when the games were held there?).

Since the year 2000, as part of the HAPPY MONDAY MOVEMENT (having national holidays on Monday to make a 3-day weekend), Taiiku No Hi has been moved to the second Monday of October, giving us a nice break in what is probably Japan’s best season weather-wise ( not this year, though!).

Over the Sports Day weekend you are likely to hear signal fireworks (aizu no hanabi) announcing that school and university sports festivals (UNDO KAI) are being held. For the Japanese, these events are MAJOR markers of the passage of years. It is common for grandparents to come from afar to be present, and in Tsukuba, parents often go out in the middle of the night to stake out a good place to put down their plastic sheet for the next morning’s festivities. You can get a glimpse of what goes on at an UNDOKAI on YouTube.

If you turn on the TV on a Sports Day morning, you will most probably see some of Japan’s Olympic medalists and other celebrated athletes giving workshops for schoolchildren. Two years ago I remember watching scenes of little Aiko (the daughter of the Crown Prince and Princess) running (victoriously, of course) in her first Sports Festival.

Many Tsukubans set aside time every year during the second weekend in October to attend Tsukuba University’s three day Culture Festival. All of those who do have their own favorite attractions. For me, there is the music, especially the jazz cafe and the Andean Folk Music Troupe. With a wide range of cheap and delicious foods, live music in all genres, arcade games, scientific displays, and technological exhibitions all served up with youthful enthusiasm, for me the GAKUEN-SAI is the true TSUKUBA FESTIVAL (Tsukuba Matsuri).

As I have written before, one noticeable thing for many graduates of foreign universities is the lack of any political or INTELLECTUAL presence in the Tsukuba University festival. In recent years, however, environmental awareness has started to be felt with several booths selling organic produce or showing data from research on GREENER LIVING. Still walking the length of the campus this weekend, I felt pessimistic about recent calls to lower the voting age in Japan to 18.

For LOTS OF INTERESTING DETAILS ON THE TOKYO OLYMPICS SEE THIS PAGE and THIS ONE. (You should read more about this event!)

11th Dragon boat race competition in Kasumigaura
When: July 1, Sunday, from 9:00 to 15:15
Where: Kasumigaura Lake in front of Ayumisaki Park in Kasumigaura City (Map)

It looks like this is a very serious competition unlike the kind of dragon boat race where participants decorate their boats for fun. Click here to see the picture from last year's competition.

Ayumisaki Park is a tiny park with a VERY tiny aquarium, but it still is a nice to place to spend your day. I see many sons and fathers fish while moms and other kids play in the park every time I go there. A castle-shaped local historical museum and a really good nature park for kids and families are within walking distance of Ayumisaki Park. The competition site (Ayumisaki Park) is about 30 to 40-minute drive from Tsukuba.

Many older women I have spoken to in Tsukuba can remember painstakingly removing the seeds from the delicate pods as children to make toy noise makers which were blown into -- something kids today probably don't have the patience or desire to do!

The beautiful hozuki plants, the excitement in the air, and the cool tingling of countless wind-chimes makes for a perfect summer excursion -- and you can get yourself PLENTY of merit to boot!

Alas, tomorrow is a weekday. But for those who can't make it to Asakusa's Sensoji, a final look can be had at the beautiful hozuki arrangement in the lobby of the Okura Hotel at Tsukuba Center. The lobby flowers are changed every Thursday at the Okura, so you had better get there early. I've been going EVERY DAY!

In contrast to the always tasteful floral inventions which can be encountered at the hotel, the managers of the Tsukuba Center Complex have put up a tacky display of poster-sized photos, cheaply framed, of VIPs who have visited the center over the past 20 years. You might imagine that these would be shots of great scientists or scholars, as many have been through Tsukuba over the years. The organizers of this particular display, however, have selected only pictures of royalty: the Showa Emperor, the current Emperor and his wife as Crown Prince and Princess, the Kings of Belgium and Sweden, the Princess of Thailand, Margaret Thatcher, etc.

Seems a bit out of touch with what Tsukuba is supposed to be about, but these unartfully hung posters can't help help but make one stop a moment, have a look at each one and wonder where all the time goes.

Tsukuba You World is currently celebrating its 7th Anniversary, and you can take advantage of their special offers and events.

Cineplex Tsukuba
1) 1000yen admission day - July 8, Sunday
2) Meet Picachu and Shrek - July 7 and 8
11:25AM, 13:30PM, and 15:40PM on both days.
(Expect the chaos!)
3) Quiz rally

Spa You World
1) Special drama performances from July 1 to July 30
2) 1050yen admission day and free gifts to first 250 people - July 8

For You World's free bus services, please read this post:
Parking at You World & Free bus service
Shrek 3 Schedule:
Schedule for Shrek3 at Cineplex Tsukuba

Repsa Mall, a strip mall along Route 354, just minutes from You World will also be holding their big summer event this weekend, so it's not hard to imagine how horrible the traiffic on that stretch of Route 354 will be this weekend.

It is ironic that with Japan's often gloomy summer rainy season, there is usually plenty more sunshine in mid-winter than there is in mid-summer. And so, though today, the To-Ji (冬至), or winter solstice was certainly the shortest day of the year, it was also one of the sweetest -- with clear blue skies, no winds, and temperatures which were neither too hot nor too cold. In other words, a perfect day for fire-walking, which is what was going on today at Makabe's Kabasan Jinja Shrine, just as it has been on every winter solstice day for more than five hundred years.

When I arrived at the shrine at noon, a dense and excited crowd had already gathered tightly round the area which had been marked off earlier in the day with sacred bamboo (imitake) and rope (shimenawa). Standing on tip-toes (I am not your stereotypical TALL gaijin) I could have a look at what was going on within the sacred space. At the far end, a portable shrine had been set up, with various offerings from the sea (umi no mono), from the fields (yama no mono), and plenty of O-Miki (ritual sake) neatly arranged on an altar which was also adorned with branches of sacred sakaki, which would attract the GODS to this spot.

In the center of the cordoned off space was a neat pyre of chopped pine wood, with some ritual paper representing the deity of the shrine placed on top in the center. Five men, two of them younger, and three much older who were dressed in white robes and head-dresses more reminiscent of the Sahara or Arabia than China or Japan, were busy with various preparations. The oldest gentleman, who I later learned is in his mid-80s, was performing various purification rituals, consecutively waving sakaki, a sword, and blowing a conch (hora-gai).

Quickly tiring of standing on tip-toes, I set about exploring the precincts of this venerable shrine, which legend says was first founded by the semi-mythical barbarian subduer Yamato Takeru, who supposedly prayed at this site for victory in his campaigns of Eastern conquest. Today scores of parishioners clad in white HAPI coats and head-bands were busy chatting in the various shrine offices. Other visitors, from far and near, were buying votive tablets, tossing coins into the main offering box, taking pictures, or just waiting around impatiently for the ceremony to begin.

I was also able to chat with some of the shrine staff about the history of the shrine and the fire walking ceremony (Hi-Watari), which I will relay to you later. But now it was time to get into position for watching and photographing the ritual, and relying on plenty of pent up New York wile and CHUZTPAH I was able to manoeuvre myself into a favorable spot.

At this point, the old men in white were kneeling in front of the altar, muttering incantations with great concentration and solemnity. They then went ahead and lit the pyre, which on the windless day burned beautifully. The crowd watched the flames, as if intoxicated, for more than thirty minutes, as the old priests circled, chanting to themselves, and going through what looked like martial arts KATA (pattern practices), sometimes miming sword strikes which included strong KIAI (cries of EEII). They also would occasionally take colorful amulets from their belts and hold them up to the fire as they circled, looking as if they were seeking the fire's weak points which they would  attack.

As the fire burned down, the younger men used long sticks to create a path down the center of the pyre. When this was ready, the oldest man drew his sword and performed another purification ritual. Building up his courage he let out a strong kiai as he passed through the center of the flames. He then stopped in front of the altar acknowledged the KAMI (Gods) and took a swig of O-Miki. He was quickly followed by the other white-men.

When they were finished, it was the parishioners' turns. They all filed through the fire, and then on to the altar, as if drawn uncontrollably to the sacred SAKE.

After leaving the sacred area these locals proceeded to the shrine office where they cleaned their feet, received a certificate of having participated and settled down for some beverages and snacks. After all the parishioners had passed through the flames, it was time for anyone else who wanted to to do so.

This took quite a long time, as all sorts of folks, young old, mothers carrying babies, passed through the fire.

When I asked those who had just passed through if their feet burned, they all seemed to agree that more than hot feet, it was their faces that felt the heat, from the flames on both sides.

When the last person FINALLY passed through, the old man called out - FINISHED. Then pandemonium broke out; as the crowd rushed into the sacred compound.

Many locals bring metal containers into which they put some burnt wood or embers from the fire. They then keep this in their houses for one year as protection from colds. The mad scramble for these red hot pieces of wood seemed very dangerous, but luckily no one seemed to have gotten burned.

The Mt. Kaba Shrine Fire Walking Ritual had come to an end, and everyone seemed very satisfied indeed.

In 1394, the abbot of the Enryaku-Ji temple, which protects Kyoto from the unlucky North-Eastern direction and is probably Japan's most influential temple, travelled the country making pilgrimages to its sacred sites. One place he and his entourage of monks visited was Mt Kaba, which was supposed to have once been used for sacred rites. This priest, Genkai-Shonin (源海上人), carried out various esoteric rituals which were part of the Tendai Sect and had been brought to Japan from India and perhaps Persia, by way of China where the sect's founder Saicho had come into contact with them. It is from these ancient practices that the current Mt Kaba Shrine's Fire Walking Ritual have evolved, and that is why they have such an exotic air. Please keep in mind that until the Meiji Period (1868-1912) Buddhism and what is now called Shinto (native religious practice) were often combined in a syncretic form of worship.

The fire walking ritual is believed not only to cleanse all those who undergo it of one year's worth of impurities, but also helps to invigorate the sun, which until the day after the solstice gradually becomes weaker and weaker in the sky.

I myself almost took off my shoes and passed through the flames. I was seriously contemplating it... but I got cold feet.

Maybe next year.

2 Comments

• At December 23, 2008, Anja wrote:

  Hi Avi,

  Thank you for this and all your other stories. I always enjoy them a lot. We were all set to go the shrine on Sunday morning, only to find out that there was no bus going to Makabe on that day (and we do not have a car). But thanks to your story I have the feeling that we were still a bit present.

  Anja

• At December 25, 2008, Avi wrote:

  Its too bad that you couldnt have been there, especially on such a fine day! Next time, send me a mail and we can all go together.

  Thanks alot for your comments and have a great holiday season!

Learning to ride a Segue Human Transporter in Tsukuba

I cant remember exactly when it was, but it must have been more than a decade ago when there were rumors of a new invention, soon to be revealed, which would radically tranform the way we all lived.  When I finally DID find out what this contraption was, a silly sort of battery-powered scooter upon which the rider stands upright, I could not help but feel GREATLY LET DOWN ( and I guess that MOST people felt the same way), and in all the years since I had only seen this environmentally friendly machine ONCE- at Narita Airport being ridden by a patrolling security guard.

Once, until TODAY, when I saw three or four SEGUE Human Transporters ( as these vehicles have been dubbed), which have been lent by Segue Japan to Tsukuba City for a special event focusing on CLEAN ENERGY! 

That means that YOU, or anyone else with the gumption to try riding one of these crazy machines ( as you have probably heard the man who had bought the company from its original owner died after falling off a cliff while riding his Segue), can give it a try- completely free of charge!

To assist you in getting the hang of it, several Tsukuba university students, who have been trained by the Segue company, will  be there, as instructors.

You will be able to take advantage of this opportunity through February 16th, from 10AM to 4 PM- at the building in the middle of the pond, just across from Tsukuba`s Expo Center.  

While there, you can also try riding a battery powered bicycle. While waiting for your turn you can soak your feet in the warmth of a solar- powered foot bath.

I gave the Segue a try myself, and I must say that I enjoyed it alot. It IS quite amazing! You can learn the basics in a couple of minutes and then can guide the scooter with the merest shifting of your weight.

It will not revolutionize society, but it sure is fun.

Getting the hang of it!

 Those of you who tried the Segue today (Feb. 13th 2011), or were just enjoying a stroll through Tsukuba`s Central Park, were in for an EXTRA treat- The Cosplay Festival- which was held a mere 100 meters away from the Green Living Event!

Dozens of young men and women ( and some not so very young) were dressed up as their favorite ANIME or game characters! What did they do? Well, nothing much- just alot of preening and posing before the cameras. Yes, there were plenty of eager photographers ( professional, or at least with professional looking equipment!) shooting away. It seemed as if some were even paying money for the Cosplayers to pose.

I found out the hard way that you had better ask for permission before taking pictures at such events. As I was taking a couple of candid shots ( with my cell phone), three girls came over to scold me for my poor manners. Then again, by being so authoritarian they might have just been getting into their characters- they were dressed as Nazis! 

Cos-Play in Tsukuba`s Central Park- right in front of the library ( Feb. 13th 2011)

It was all quite bizzarre! A conversation that I overheard between a 40- ish Japanese couple sums it up. Shocked by the scene of so many photographers snapping away at the Cosplayers, the wife disapporvingly said- Why are they paying them so much attention? Why are they taking pictures?

Her husband cooly responded:  Its....... CULTURE.

And what brings all this culture to Tsukuba? The Tsukuba Express! Yes, train-lines, like rivers of old, are conduits of culture- and now brainy, bookish conservative Tsukuba is linked directly to Akihabara- the OTAKU Capital of Japan!

TX has brought the commuters, the Mt.Tsukuba Day-Hikers, and now the Cos-players!

But sorry, if you werent there today, you will probably have to wait a while before before such a scene at Chuo Koen ( Tsukuba`s Central Park) 

More Cos-Play in Tsukuba

For more about the Segue:

http://www.answers.com/topic/segway

One of the many Cos-Players around the pond at Tsukuba`s Chuo-Koen Park (Feb. 13th 2011)

8 Comments

• At February 14, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  That transporter is very strange as a human-transporting machine, I agree with Avi-san . It looks like it would be much easier to use 3 or 4 wheels-battery-powered vehicles like those which already are used by the elderly in Japan.

  But now I can understand from this article there is an appropriate area for using this funny transporter. In a wide open crowded area like an airport, for those like security-persons or the like to patrol it might be suitable, because it could give its rider a higher view, even higher than the mounted police! Without dung-dropping or exhaust gas, it is very clean and much to maintain!! For this purpose I recommend standing place of this vehicle should at least 30cm high. Then one can get a distant view like Giant or someone on stilts. With a showy dress like cos-play.

  My interest turns toward much more towards the “ Robot suit ”HAL” which assists human movement of the arms, hands, legs by using a motor with a very sophisticated mechanism. They say a show about this one will be held near Kenkyu-Gakuen station 16th Feb.

  Cos-Play-Festival! Near Akihabara-Station, dancing or stop-walking have been prohibited after recovery of Hokosya-Tenngoku (Heaven for pedestrians) as an effect of that awful indiscriminate killing two years ago. So those Cos-Players and people who want to take photographs in Tsukuba might be refugees? For them Tsukuba center should be very attractive place! It is wide open and clean,can dance or sing also there they can expect many queer spectators (like researchers) who like queer or originally invented things.Otakus too.

  I agreed it is Japanese culture to put on costume quite different of one’s being like Kabuki-Players,Takarazuka-Girls,New-Half-Dancers,Berusaiyu-no-bara-players(Famous comic for girls, Rose in Versailles palace), even the Samurai warrior wore very gorgeous colorful clothes and armors to compare everyday life.

  Japanese have not needed to be caring about religious authorities when they put on clothes not like people of Judaism, Christianity, Islam, or Communism, except during WWⅡ.

  It could be thought somehow symbol of free expression of oneself and peace Japan enjoyed recent 65 years beside violent demonstration of 1960s. Some young people don’t know Nazis nor such the fact Japan fought ABCD countries during WWⅡ. They don’t mind other than their own environment which effect directly. But they can get information easy if they want, this is very important aspect in East Asia.

• At February 15, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Mamoru-San, I agree with you very much about DRESSING UP in Japan. If one could say that there is one or more particular GENIUS to a particualr people or culture, maybe overall, looking at its entire history. I guess we could say that FASHION and dressing up have always been one of Japan most brilliant features.

  When I first started reading Japanese classical texts, The Tale of Genji ( Genji Monogatari) for example, one thing that really stood out for me, was the constant and detailed reference to what each character was wearing.

  Walking around Japan itself, especially Tokyo, but really anywhere in the country, one can always spot some people with their own unique and very creative way of dressing-

  and just look at how many Japanese are among the most successful fashion designers in the world!

  In the case of Cos-Play, we surely have an interesting cultural, sociological, or even ANTHRPOLOGICAL phenomenon!

  In a country where finding your own GROUP can be very important, we can see more and more people finding place and comfort by BECOMING ANIME CHARACTERS! I guess this can sometimes be easier than being ONESELF.

  To tell the truth, growing up in New York, I might have witnessed the true birth of Cos-Play.

  Back in the 1980`s there was a movie, which had not been successful during its first run but which became hugely popular, a so-called cult-movie, as a regular MIDNIGHT FEATURE which played at certain theaters. The film is called the Rocky Horror Picture Show ( you can rent it in Tsukuba).

  Near my family`s apartment in The Village, was a theater which was probably the most famous place to see the show.

  It was quite amazing.

  Many in the audience would dress up as their favorite

  characters ( or the ones which they could resemble most).

  Then as the movie played, some of the cos-players would actually stand up in front of the screen and perform along with the movie- moving with the on screen characters motion by motion!

  An unforgattable scene!

  And getting back to freedom in fashion.

  I agree with you, that NOW Japan is one of the FREE-EST places that the earth has ever known.

  In past ages, howeverm dress was extremely restricted.

  One reason why you can find just as many refrences to WEAR in The Heike Monogatari, a tale of war, as in the Tale of Genji, is the fact that certain colors and style were worn by persons of specific ranks.

  There had always been restriction on color, material, and design, which related to the very detailed system of social ranking which existed in Japan.

  During the Tokugawa Period the austerity orders restricted the populance from wearing SHOWY ( HADE, 派手) clothes.

  That is why YUUKI TSUMUGI, the famous type of textile produced in Ibaraki Prefecture`s Yuki City is so famously subdued ( JIMI).

• At February 15, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  I agree Avi-san that Japanese have been so called group-oriented, it was said Japanese people were relay depended on cultivation-agriculture especially Rice-production using water. To use water there need much cooperation with other people of using same water resource. They were not like people of nomadic nor animal husbandry-agriculture life where they rely mostly on themselves. Those people were more dependant or accustomed individual-decision making. I have learned so and think so now. This aspect is not so simple like you wrote but easily understand the difference.

  Tokugawa-Era Tokugawa Government sometime forbid to wear certain gaudy clothes because when people became rich(especially merchant class) and had worn such gaudy clothes then government prohibited to consider feeling of peasant who had spent subdued life, even their official class-rank were higher to compare merchant class. Also it was warning to Samurai-class mostly their Domain had been near Bankruptcy. A few Japanese people were tending to wear gaudy clothes if they can afford. So modest person like Ryoukan-san, load Uesugi-Yozan,Ninomiya-Sontoku have been intentionally praised.

  I remind famous singer Kobayashi-Sachiko’s clothes in Kohaku-Utagassens especially at 31/Dec. last year. I could not close my mouse even I forced to close. To compare her gaudiness Marilyn Monroe in “Gentlemen like Blonde” or Cos-play girls in Akihabara were nothing!?

• At February 15, 2011, Alice wrote:

  I saw the SEGUE Human Transformer on TV and a TV reporter trying it out. I wouldn't ride it near a cliff! It's insane!

  Yeah, nowadays those dress-up youngsters in Harajuku doesn't like their photos being taken. This 'culture' has also spread to other countries like Malaysia.

• At February 15, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Hi Alice! Could you tell us more about Cos-Play in Malaysia? Do those into it dress as Japanese ANIME characters? Im very interested.

• At February 16, 2011, Alice wrote:

  Avi,

  Cosplay is "Made in Japan!"

  Here are a few articles on cosplay in Malaysia :

  http://ecentral.my/news/story.asp?file=/2008/8/17/tvnradio/1791923&sec=tvnradio

  http://rage.com.my/writeups/story.asp?file=/2010/12/22/otakuzone/20101221173549&sec=otakuzone

  http://www.thestar.com.my/metro/story.asp?sec=sarawak&file=/2010/11/17/sarawak/7440619

  http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2010/8/7/lifefocus/6752756&sec=lifefocus

• At February 18, 2011, Keiko wrote:

  Riding the segue was easier than I expected and also very fun. The staff told me that in Japan there is no permission for people to ride segue on roads or sidewalks. If there is permission by law in the future, maybe many people will use segue in Tsukuba. The pedestrian walkingway woulld be a convenient place to ride segues.

  Thank you for the information

• At February 20, 2011, midori wrote:

  Hi Avi

  This happened a little while ago but…

  I also experienced riding the Segway.

  At first it was scary but I enjoyed very much and was able to go fast and get used to the speed.

  I thought that it is also quite good fun in addition to being eco.

  I was sorry we could not see the costumes.

The full moon of mid-autumn with pampas grass (susuki)

When they followed their traditional LUNISOLAR calendar, now referred to as the kyu-reki (旧暦, former calendar) or inreki (陰暦), the Japanese were always in tune with the MOON and its PHASES. In fact, under that old system of ordering the days, months and seasons  ( first introduced to Japan from Tang China via  Korea sometime in the mid- 6th century), the days of the month were directly connected to the moons waxing and waning. Thus, it was possible on many specific dates to predict the shape that the moon would take in the sky on that particular night. Most famously, the FULL MOON (満月、mangetsu) would always appear on the night of the 15th (ju-go-ya, 十五夜) of each month.

Since the Japanese government of the Meiji Period ( a time of rabid Westernization and modernization) decided to drop this old lunisolar calendar  in favor of the solar based Gregorian one( in 1873), consciousness of the moon and its cycle  has been ON THE WANE, as the dates of the NEW CALENDAR no longer coincide with the lunar phases. Thus, even though some modern Japanese calendars DO show the KOYOMI dates (in hard to notice, small print) , it is still easy to lose track of when important traditional ceremonies  are coming up. It is ironic, that  it is now CONVENIENCE STORES (an institiution which can be said to bear great responsibility in the precipitous demise of traditional lifestles and family relationships), which help remind the general public about the coming of one of Japan`s MOST ANCIENT AND ENDEARING CUSTOMS-  O-Tsukimi ( お月見, Moon-Viewing). They do this by setting up displays ( which look charmingly home-made) featuring the iconic symbols of the event-  moons and rabbits ( according to Japanese and Chinese legend,  there is a rabbit on the moon!), Tsukimi-Dango ( moon shaped rice dumplings) and Chinese moon cakes, as well as stalks of real pampas grass (susuki, 薄).

Tsukimi-Dango and pampas grass at a conveience store in Tsukuba

 Though the moon`s beauty can be appreciated at any time of year, in Japan doing so is strongly connected with AUTUMN. In fact , in Haiku poetry the word moon- TSUKI (月), by itself , is a keyword indicating the fall. This is not only because at that time of year temperatures and weather conditions are at their most suitable  for such outdoor activity at night, but also because, in the northern hemisphere, the moon seems to be especially large and NEAR to us during the autumn months.　

For the Japanese, whose culture is so connected to the changing of the seasons and the appreciation of natural beauty, viewing this autumn moon ( the Harvest Moon, in English) came to be one of the most cherished and anticipated activities of the year!. There was (is) even the saying- HARU WA HANA- AKI WA TSUKI- in spring cherry blossoms, in autumn the moon! Countless works of art, especially in poetry and painting  focused on the moon as its major motif, suggesting not only beauty, but continuous change, and even revival. Here is one very famous ( and anonymous) classical poem which expresses the SPECIAL  joy of viewing  the moon in mid-autumn:

Tsukizuki ni tsuki miru tsuki wa oo keredo tsuki miru tsuki wa kono tsuki no tsuki ( 月々に月見る月は多けれど月見る月はこの月の月) , which I translate, using the word moon to mean both MONTH and MOON, as it does in Japanese-

Moon after moon  there are so many moons to be viewed, but as for   a MOON-VIEWING moon there is none other than this moon`s moon!

According to the traditional calendar, the months of autumn are the 7th, 8th and 9th, months. These roughly correspond to the Gregorian late August, September, October and early November. The custom of viewing the mid-autumn full moon (仲秋名月, chu-shu-meigetsu),  which appears in the sky on the 15th day of 8th month (sometime in September or October according to the new calendar) while eating , drinking and  composing and reciting poetry, was introduced to Japan from China. The oldest record of such a formal Chinese- style Moon-Viewing party held by the Japanese Imperial Court dates back to the year 856 ( the third year of the Emperor Saikou). However, many scholars believe that the Japanese people had been making offerings to the moon, in order to pray for or give thanks for a good harvest, since LONG BEFORE the Chinese style celebrations were introduced.

The reason for assuming this, is that among the common people ( and later for anyone doing  Tsuki-Mi), it was (and still is) the custom  to offer SATO-IMO (里芋), taro,  to the moon in this season , as part of a general rite of prayer called the HATSUHO-MATSURI (初穂祭り, Festival of the First Harvest）. In fact, an alternate name for the mid-autumn full moon is the TARO-FULL-MOON (IMO-MEIGETSU. 芋名月）, which might just very well be a LIVING CONNECTION with Japans prehistoric, pre-rice cultivating past, when the taro was the staple food of the inhabitants of these islands.

Taro and Tsuki-mi Dango offered to the Moon

Another indication that there was a native Japanese version of the Chinese custom of moon-viewing is the fact that in Japan, it is considered incomplete, or even UNLUCKY to do TSUKI-MI only on the 15th day of the 8th month ( the day the Chinese do it). Doing so is called KATAMI-TSUKI (片見月）, literally, a half-viewed moon. For a full and satisfactoryTSUKI-MI one also had to view the moon and make offerings  on the 13th DAY OF THE 9th MONTH ( called- Ju-san-ya, 十三夜）. It is possible that before the Chinese custom of formal moon-viewing was introduced that the Japanese had a similar custom, involving offerings and supplications to the moon, which took place about one month later. It has also been  suggested by commentators, that the shape of the moon on the 13th ( 十三夜), not quite, but  just nearly full, is more appealing to the aesthetic sensibilities of the Japanese!

Anyway, no matter what the origins, people continue to do tsukimi to this day. Whereas the Chinese have a national holiday and celebrate by eating large, round moon cakes ( to symbolize family unity), the Japanese make offerings to the moon ( by leaving them in a place exposed to the moon-light) of seasonal crops ( chestnuts, persimons, taro, apples), seasonal plants ( bush clover, etc.) and little round rice dumplings called Tsuki-mi dango. Usually 15 ( for the 15th night) or 12 ( for 12 months of the year) of these dango are placed in a traditional tray called a SANBO (三方) . One very  interesting folk belief related to these dango is that your family will have good luck ( and a good harvest) if these little sweets are stolen from your offering tray! Thus, moon-viewing night was an exciting time for kids, who would be permitted, or even encouraged, to steal the neighbors dango. These kids were (are ) called O-Tsuki-Mi Dorobo ( お月見泥棒）。

An essential element for any Tsukimi event is some pampas grass. One thing that stands out in my memory is that every year at moon viewing time, the 7-11 near Doho Park, in Tsukuba, gives out free susuki to any one who wanted it .

The significance of this plant is not only its being emblematic of the season. It also resembles rice stalks (though much larger, they are a member of the same family), and thus, moon viewing offerings symbolically connect the old slash and burn agriculture of prehistoric Japan ( the taro) with the culture of rice ( by the presence of susuki and the rice dumplings, in former times the real rice would not have been harvested yet). Susuki also has prickly leaves and stems on its leaves and is sharp where it is cut off, making it useful for symbolically driving away evil.

Most importantly, the stalks act as YORISHIRO (依代), antennae which attract the spirit of the moon to the offerings ( at New Years Kadomatsu, bamboo and pine decorations, are yorishiro- and on childrens day the poles of the carp streamers (Koi nobori) originally had the same function.

Last night as I watched the Tsuchiura fireworks from afar. I was lucky enough to be able to occassionally see the mid-autumn moon whenever the clouds presented an opening. The people around me were all alternately viewing the Hanabi and the moon. It is hard to say which was more entrancing. Standing where we were, amid the  fields of pamapas grass was a truly moving Tsukimi experience.

If the moon can fill modern man( for whom it is merely a PIECE OF ROCK orbiting around the Earth), with such wonder, imagine how mysterious and even awesome it was to those who had no scientific explanation for it.

Besides providing precious light at night, the Japanese realized that the moon did have an influence on the world around them, the tides, the activities of animals (sea turtles lay their eggs on full moon nights), etc. They also felt a strong connection between the moon and womens menstrual cycles and by extension childbirth.

It is because of this that in Japan, besides the autumn moon viewing events, there were regularly held prayer meetings on particular days of the month ( depending on the community). In Tsukuba, such meetings ( O-Koh, お講) are still held on the 19th of the month. Numerous sacred stones attest to the fact that other nights were once popular for holding these  gatherings at which women prayed for easy delivery and family health. Probably the most common of these stones commemorate prayers on the 23rd night  (二十三夜).

Sacred Stone reading- 23rd night ( ni-ju-san ya), indicating that special prayer meeting were held during that phase of the moon

If you didnt do Tsukimi last night, you still have the chance next month.You too can join the minion of LUNATICS. In fact, the moon-viewing afficionados of old would enjoy not only the  full moon of the 15th, but also, in their uncontrollable anticipation, watch the 14th night moon. This night was called MACHIYOI (待宵), the night of excited expectation! Then after the 15th, day by day, the moon rises a little later and its shape grows more and more cut-off. There are specific names the poets have given to each of these phases of the mid-autumn moon. Last night on the 16th ( of the old calendar) I viewed the IZAYOI (十六や), tonight the 17th, will be the TACHIMACHI-ZUKI (立待月), the 18th the IMACHI-ZUKI (居待月, and so on.

 This year the 13th night of the 9th month (ju-san-ya, 十三夜) will fall on October 30th.

For more on this season read:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2008/11/kaki-is-the-color-and-flavor-of-fall-in-rural-japan/

http://blog.alientimes.org/2008/11/zakuro-pomegranates-and-the-goddess-of-fertility-and-easy-delivery-kishibojin/

2 Comments

• At October 4, 2009, willie wrote:

  Thanks so much for this article. A wealth of information.

  I'll mark this site for further reference.

• At October 9, 2009, Keiko wrote:

  Avi I read your blog on moon-viewing and the last night returning to my house I saw the big, near moon. Very mysterious and beautiful.

  I thought about your story!

  Yhank you.

I imagined that most of the Buddhist art enthusiasts patiently waiting in line with me had already been to Nara and visited Yakushiji. I also came to the realization that if I had gotten on the shinkansen it would not take very much longer to reach the temple itself than it would to finally reach the entrance of the museum (though it would have been a BIT more expensive).

What the large crowds had been gathering for, every day for weeks already, was a look from behind. A look at the back-sides of 3 great Buddhist images whose backs are usually covered by ornate, body length, gilded halos or aureoles (光背, kohai). For this exhibition, these figures, most famously the bronze Bodhisatvas Nikko and Gakko, were separated from their back-stand halos allowing their elegantly molded posteriors to be gazed upon by anyone with a ticket and tough enough to endure the lines.

In addition to this rare chance to peek BEHIND the scenes, the exhibition featured treasures which have never been  displayed all at once.These are usually kept in Yakushi-Ji`s treasure house and  are

exhibited as individual pieces or sets at various times around the year.

Centuries of being imbued with the samurai virtues of patience and perseverence has clearly had a huge impact.Not a complaint could be heard from the sun-exposed crowd.Each visitor seemed to be in a heat induced daze by the time they reached the air-conditioned exhibition hall .

Then things really got difficult. All the pent up energy and bridled excitement seemed to burst forth in my elderly fellow museum-goers and it took strength and cunning to jockey myself into a position in which I could see any of the works on display.

This might sound like a nightmare, or a Buddhist version of hell, but  in fact it was fascinating and highly rewarding in many ways. For me observing the visitors and overhearing their comments was what probably sticks in my mind most. Since this was an exhibition of Buddhist works, and not just ART, it seemed to me that most of the visitors were trying their best to have a spiritual experience. Their GAZE was special, like that reserved for cherry blossom viewing or funerals. A typical exclamation that I heard among the crowds viewing the 3 meter tall bronze Boddhisatvas was: They really DO make me feel calm. (yappari miru to iyashi ni naru).

In terms of the works on display themselves, I was more impressed (in terms of beauty) by the three small figures (39cm) of the Hachiman Triad. I prefered them because they are carved from wood, and I have always felt that the Japanese sculptors often showed great genius when working in that medium. When such skillfully carved wooden pieces are aged more than a thousand years, the effect is mysterious and mesmerizing.

It is also of interest to note how Shinto Gods were early adopted into Buddhism, with Hachiman (the deified emperor Ojin) having early on become a protector of the new, imported faith.These figures are some of the earliest,if not THE earliest examples of Shinto sculpture(before Buddhism took hold the Gods had not been

represented as graven images). I can go ON and ON about each piece I saw. By why should you waste your time reading when you still have a few more days to see and experience for yourself.Or check the exhibition web-site.

I left the museum and its bookstore with  heavy feet and even heavier bag, and a light head and even lighter wallet.However, I really did feel serene(exhaustion?) sitting on TX reviewing what I had just seen in the excellent catalogue of the show.

Don't let the lines deter you(bring some good books along). I guess that in the west we also have the notion of growth through hardship: you know NO PAIN, NO GAIN.

The exhibition will be on until June 8 at the National Museum in Ueno.