O-demari ( Japanese snowballs) in Tsukuba (May 2011)

By Avi Landau

They`ve changed the bus routes! As of April 1st  2011, the Tsuku Bus- the city`s subsidized transport service, no longer stops in front of my house- though it still does pass by as it follows its route ( as if to mock me)!

Now if I want to get around town by bus I have to walk over to the old Sakura City Office. The fastest way for me to get there is to take a short-cut through one of Tsukuba`s most beautiful undeveloped areas- the wilds between the Sakura Junior High School and the former city office, which is a rich ( though unmarked) archaeoligical site ( a government office stood there more than 1,000 years ago) that is now something of a small, very unofficial, nature preserve- replete with all sorts of small animals and birds, and of course plenty of interesting vegetation.

One night last week, I decided to take the bus back home, and I got out at the lonely Former City-Office stop at about 10 PM. It certainly IS a creepy place to get dropped off at that hour, but still, instead of walking around the LONG WAY, taking the street-lit and paved sidewalks, I headed on, without flashlight, into the wilds- with the crazed frog choruses from nearby rice fields as background music!

As my eyes adjusted to the darkness, I realized that the moon, though not full, would provide adequate illumination for me to navigate the dirt paths.

Very soon along  my way, I noticed the silhouettes of two large Ural Owls ( FUKURO) perched on a tree. They were unnerved by my presence, and silently took off into flight, displaying the outlines of their broad wingspans in the moonlit sky. MAGICAL!

Transfixed, I stopped in my tracks to admire them, though in less than an instant they had vanished from sight.

Straining my eyes in the dark to see the birds, I noticed something unusual up ahead-  large and glowing ghostly white. A chill ran down my spine.

I approached slowly, and realized that it was no spectre I had come across, but a tree- more than two meters tall and fully bedecked with  surprisingly large, round, white flowers. From the size and shape of the blossoms I realized it was an O-Demari tree (Viburnum plicatum var. plicatum f. plicatum), whose flowers in English have come to be called ( quite appropriately) JAPANESE SNOWBALLS!

I stood transfixed for a few moments beneath the tree which glowed in the weak moonlight and seemed to come to life with each breeze- before continuing on my way home.

A closer look

The next morning, I knew that I just HAD TO take the bus into town, so that on my way to the stop I could get a look at the tree in the daylight.

And it WAS as spectacular as it had been the previous night. And though not as mysterious as it had been in the moonlight, I still missed my bus.

The O- demari, also known as the TEMARI BANA（手鞠花 ) in Japanese, is a member of the Honeysuckle Family, and is in fact a cultivar developed over the centuries by Japanese horticulturalists, of a native species called the YABU DEMARI (ヤブデマリ,V. plicatum var.tomentosum).

The flowers of the O-demari bloom in May, giving us what look like snowballs just when the weather is finally warming up ( they look so tempting that you want to pull one off and throw it at someone!)

It is interesting that if I show a close-up photo of these flowers to botanically-savy Japanese they all immediately assume that what they are looking at is HYDRANGEA. In fact, the O-demari DO look uncannilly like those much more famous ( and commonly found) blossoms.

Another confusing point, is that there is another decorative plant in Japan called the KODEMARI, which is usually assumed to be a relative of the snowballs. There are two reasons for this. One is that they look quite similar, especially from afar. More importantly, however, are the names of these plants, which can be taken to mean LARGE DEMARI ( O-demari), and SMALL DEMARI ( kodemari).They are in fact, not even of the same family.

Snowball petals on the ground

Anyway, my mysterious encounter with the O-demari was so impressive, that I think I will have to try to get to a tree nursery and buy one for my garden. I hope to enjoy its SNOWBALLS in future Mays- especially on moonlit nights!

Check here for some pictures of KODEMARI ( more commonly seen than, and completely UNRELATED to O-DEMARI):

http://www.hana300.com/kodema1.html

Yesterday as I pulled back the curtain, I expected to have a further look at Tsukuba's descent into the dried out browns and straw yellows of December. Instead, what I saw had me calling out "Come quick, and look!" Just then the phone rang. It was a friend saying, "Look towards the mountain! It's a rainbow!" After saying thanks (for telling me what I had already known), the phone rang again, with the same news! Surely, few natural phenomena can bring such a thrill!

We savoured the spectacle for the few minutes that it lasted, and I then set out for work with the feeling that this would be a special day. I also couldn't stop thinking about rainbows, or as they are called in Japanese NIJI (虹）, and how until modern science came along to finally (and de-mystifyingly) explain their occurrence, they were the true stuff of myth, with the various cultures and religions of the world each offering their own unique answer to the question: Why are there rainbows?

The Japanese traditionally associate rainbows with bridges (now you know why the famous Rainbow Bridge is so named ). In the KOJIKI, Japan's oldest (8th century) surviving text which recounts its creation myths in an archaic Sino-Japanese, we are told of how the Gods brought into existence a divine couple (Izanagi no Mikoto and Izanami no Mikoto) who were called upon to create the LAND. For this they used a special rod called a HOKO (this is what the long poles featured on the floats of the famous festival in Kyoto are called) with which they stirred the sea while standing on a heavenly bridge called AME NO UKI HASHI, thus creating Terra-Firma. This celestial bridge was interpreted as being a rainbow.

Thus the scene of a rainbow over Mt. Tsukuba has special significance, as its twin peaks are where Izanagi and Izanami are enshrined.

I have not found any evidence for this yet, but think about all the old bridges you've seen at shrines around Japan. In fact have a look at any of the bridges shown in old wood-block prints. They are arc shaped, like rainbows.

Rainbows can be seen any time of year, but in Japan are most likely to appear in the summer rainy season.

As you can imagine, there are numerous poems (dating back to the MANYOSHU) which try to capture the WONDER that one senses when seeing these tantalizingly ephemeral colored arches.

• Bird Sanctuary or Mortuary (May 2007)
• Bird Rescue Underway: Six Saved Thousands to go (December 2007)
• Save the Birds (December 2007)
• Kasumigaura Bird Rescue (January 2008)
• Bird Rescue Stuck in the Mud (February 2008)
• Kasumigaura Bird Rescue Meeting (February 2008)
• Still Caught up in Kasumigaura Bird Rescue (December 2008)

Today, I decided to shadow Avi on one of his trips to survey the situation and rescue any birds that were caught in the nets. As we pulled up to one of the sites, Avi spotted a duck that was hanging from one of its feet and ran out to rescue it -- almost before I could stop the car! He only had one set of hip waders, so I had to watch on the sidelines, but that was probably for the best anyway, as the fields that he had to traverse today were really difficult to manoeuvre in and my short little legs would probably not have been able to propel me forward very effectively.

He rescued a small duck and a coot in one field and then we moved along the shore until we spotted a larger duck that was caught up in a net but still actively struggling to get free. The larger duck (a mallard) was located far into one of the fields and it took Avi a long time to reach him. Once the duck was free, he swam away into a neighbouring pond and then flew up and away with a vigorous flap of his wings. Unfortunately, the smaller duck and the coot did not seem to be very far off from perishing when Avi rescued them. They both must have been hanging upside down for a long time because even after they were rescued, they just sort of sat in the water, dazed. By the time we returned to where they had been rescued, there was no sign of either one of them. We think they both must have died in the interim.

Avi says that there is definite progress being made on this issue. Many fields that were completely covered in nets are now either open or only covered on the sides. Also, just as we were leaving, we think we spotted some city hall people who had come to remove the birds and the carcasses. I guess it is a bit of an embarrassment for the city to have a bird mortuary on the shores of one of their biggest tourist draws.

However, there is still work to be done. We saw many, many carcasses of birds who had gotten stuck and perished, and Avi assures me that I only saw a very, very small percentage of the fields today. It is important not to let people forget that so many birds are out there hanging from their feet or wings, starving (or freezing) to death. The worst part of it is that the nets are not even effective at keeping the birds out! The fact that the birds get inside the nets is proof enough of that fact, but even worse is the fact that some of the birds can also fly out of the nets -- proving that the nets are not really effective at keeping the birds away at all.

If you have some time to spare, I would urge you to contact Avi (avi[at]tora.email.ne.jp) and volunteer to go out to Kasumigaura with him. If you are strong enough (and tall enough), you can help him with the rescuing, but if you aren't, you can help by taking photos, getting the word out to your friends, helping to find ways to publicize this issue in the Japanese media or on blogs, translating information into Japanese, etc. As with any animal-welfare issue, the faster you offer to help, the fewer animals end up suffering.

Learning to ride a Segue Human Transporter in Tsukuba

I cant remember exactly when it was, but it must have been more than a decade ago when there were rumors of a new invention, soon to be revealed, which would radically tranform the way we all lived.  When I finally DID find out what this contraption was, a silly sort of battery-powered scooter upon which the rider stands upright, I could not help but feel GREATLY LET DOWN ( and I guess that MOST people felt the same way), and in all the years since I had only seen this environmentally friendly machine ONCE- at Narita Airport being ridden by a patrolling security guard.

Once, until TODAY, when I saw three or four SEGUE Human Transporters ( as these vehicles have been dubbed), which have been lent by Segue Japan to Tsukuba City for a special event focusing on CLEAN ENERGY! 

That means that YOU, or anyone else with the gumption to try riding one of these crazy machines ( as you have probably heard the man who had bought the company from its original owner died after falling off a cliff while riding his Segue), can give it a try- completely free of charge!

To assist you in getting the hang of it, several Tsukuba university students, who have been trained by the Segue company, will  be there, as instructors.

You will be able to take advantage of this opportunity through February 16th, from 10AM to 4 PM- at the building in the middle of the pond, just across from Tsukuba`s Expo Center.  

While there, you can also try riding a battery powered bicycle. While waiting for your turn you can soak your feet in the warmth of a solar- powered foot bath.

I gave the Segue a try myself, and I must say that I enjoyed it alot. It IS quite amazing! You can learn the basics in a couple of minutes and then can guide the scooter with the merest shifting of your weight.

It will not revolutionize society, but it sure is fun.

Getting the hang of it!

 Those of you who tried the Segue today (Feb. 13th 2011), or were just enjoying a stroll through Tsukuba`s Central Park, were in for an EXTRA treat- The Cosplay Festival- which was held a mere 100 meters away from the Green Living Event!

Dozens of young men and women ( and some not so very young) were dressed up as their favorite ANIME or game characters! What did they do? Well, nothing much- just alot of preening and posing before the cameras. Yes, there were plenty of eager photographers ( professional, or at least with professional looking equipment!) shooting away. It seemed as if some were even paying money for the Cosplayers to pose.

I found out the hard way that you had better ask for permission before taking pictures at such events. As I was taking a couple of candid shots ( with my cell phone), three girls came over to scold me for my poor manners. Then again, by being so authoritarian they might have just been getting into their characters- they were dressed as Nazis! 

Cos-Play in Tsukuba`s Central Park- right in front of the library ( Feb. 13th 2011)

It was all quite bizzarre! A conversation that I overheard between a 40- ish Japanese couple sums it up. Shocked by the scene of so many photographers snapping away at the Cosplayers, the wife disapporvingly said- Why are they paying them so much attention? Why are they taking pictures?

Her husband cooly responded:  Its....... CULTURE.

And what brings all this culture to Tsukuba? The Tsukuba Express! Yes, train-lines, like rivers of old, are conduits of culture- and now brainy, bookish conservative Tsukuba is linked directly to Akihabara- the OTAKU Capital of Japan!

TX has brought the commuters, the Mt.Tsukuba Day-Hikers, and now the Cos-players!

But sorry, if you werent there today, you will probably have to wait a while before before such a scene at Chuo Koen ( Tsukuba`s Central Park) 

More Cos-Play in Tsukuba

For more about the Segue:

http://www.answers.com/topic/segway

One of the many Cos-Players around the pond at Tsukuba`s Chuo-Koen Park (Feb. 13th 2011)

8 Comments

• At February 14, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  That transporter is very strange as a human-transporting machine, I agree with Avi-san . It looks like it would be much easier to use 3 or 4 wheels-battery-powered vehicles like those which already are used by the elderly in Japan.

  But now I can understand from this article there is an appropriate area for using this funny transporter. In a wide open crowded area like an airport, for those like security-persons or the like to patrol it might be suitable, because it could give its rider a higher view, even higher than the mounted police! Without dung-dropping or exhaust gas, it is very clean and much to maintain!! For this purpose I recommend standing place of this vehicle should at least 30cm high. Then one can get a distant view like Giant or someone on stilts. With a showy dress like cos-play.

  My interest turns toward much more towards the “ Robot suit ”HAL” which assists human movement of the arms, hands, legs by using a motor with a very sophisticated mechanism. They say a show about this one will be held near Kenkyu-Gakuen station 16th Feb.

  Cos-Play-Festival! Near Akihabara-Station, dancing or stop-walking have been prohibited after recovery of Hokosya-Tenngoku (Heaven for pedestrians) as an effect of that awful indiscriminate killing two years ago. So those Cos-Players and people who want to take photographs in Tsukuba might be refugees? For them Tsukuba center should be very attractive place! It is wide open and clean,can dance or sing also there they can expect many queer spectators (like researchers) who like queer or originally invented things.Otakus too.

  I agreed it is Japanese culture to put on costume quite different of one’s being like Kabuki-Players,Takarazuka-Girls,New-Half-Dancers,Berusaiyu-no-bara-players(Famous comic for girls, Rose in Versailles palace), even the Samurai warrior wore very gorgeous colorful clothes and armors to compare everyday life.

  Japanese have not needed to be caring about religious authorities when they put on clothes not like people of Judaism, Christianity, Islam, or Communism, except during WWⅡ.

  It could be thought somehow symbol of free expression of oneself and peace Japan enjoyed recent 65 years beside violent demonstration of 1960s. Some young people don’t know Nazis nor such the fact Japan fought ABCD countries during WWⅡ. They don’t mind other than their own environment which effect directly. But they can get information easy if they want, this is very important aspect in East Asia.

• At February 15, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Mamoru-San, I agree with you very much about DRESSING UP in Japan. If one could say that there is one or more particular GENIUS to a particualr people or culture, maybe overall, looking at its entire history. I guess we could say that FASHION and dressing up have always been one of Japan most brilliant features.

  When I first started reading Japanese classical texts, The Tale of Genji ( Genji Monogatari) for example, one thing that really stood out for me, was the constant and detailed reference to what each character was wearing.

  Walking around Japan itself, especially Tokyo, but really anywhere in the country, one can always spot some people with their own unique and very creative way of dressing-

  and just look at how many Japanese are among the most successful fashion designers in the world!

  In the case of Cos-Play, we surely have an interesting cultural, sociological, or even ANTHRPOLOGICAL phenomenon!

  In a country where finding your own GROUP can be very important, we can see more and more people finding place and comfort by BECOMING ANIME CHARACTERS! I guess this can sometimes be easier than being ONESELF.

  To tell the truth, growing up in New York, I might have witnessed the true birth of Cos-Play.

  Back in the 1980`s there was a movie, which had not been successful during its first run but which became hugely popular, a so-called cult-movie, as a regular MIDNIGHT FEATURE which played at certain theaters. The film is called the Rocky Horror Picture Show ( you can rent it in Tsukuba).

  Near my family`s apartment in The Village, was a theater which was probably the most famous place to see the show.

  It was quite amazing.

  Many in the audience would dress up as their favorite

  characters ( or the ones which they could resemble most).

  Then as the movie played, some of the cos-players would actually stand up in front of the screen and perform along with the movie- moving with the on screen characters motion by motion!

  An unforgattable scene!

  And getting back to freedom in fashion.

  I agree with you, that NOW Japan is one of the FREE-EST places that the earth has ever known.

  In past ages, howeverm dress was extremely restricted.

  One reason why you can find just as many refrences to WEAR in The Heike Monogatari, a tale of war, as in the Tale of Genji, is the fact that certain colors and style were worn by persons of specific ranks.

  There had always been restriction on color, material, and design, which related to the very detailed system of social ranking which existed in Japan.

  During the Tokugawa Period the austerity orders restricted the populance from wearing SHOWY ( HADE, 派手) clothes.

  That is why YUUKI TSUMUGI, the famous type of textile produced in Ibaraki Prefecture`s Yuki City is so famously subdued ( JIMI).

• At February 15, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  I agree Avi-san that Japanese have been so called group-oriented, it was said Japanese people were relay depended on cultivation-agriculture especially Rice-production using water. To use water there need much cooperation with other people of using same water resource. They were not like people of nomadic nor animal husbandry-agriculture life where they rely mostly on themselves. Those people were more dependant or accustomed individual-decision making. I have learned so and think so now. This aspect is not so simple like you wrote but easily understand the difference.

  Tokugawa-Era Tokugawa Government sometime forbid to wear certain gaudy clothes because when people became rich(especially merchant class) and had worn such gaudy clothes then government prohibited to consider feeling of peasant who had spent subdued life, even their official class-rank were higher to compare merchant class. Also it was warning to Samurai-class mostly their Domain had been near Bankruptcy. A few Japanese people were tending to wear gaudy clothes if they can afford. So modest person like Ryoukan-san, load Uesugi-Yozan,Ninomiya-Sontoku have been intentionally praised.

  I remind famous singer Kobayashi-Sachiko’s clothes in Kohaku-Utagassens especially at 31/Dec. last year. I could not close my mouse even I forced to close. To compare her gaudiness Marilyn Monroe in “Gentlemen like Blonde” or Cos-play girls in Akihabara were nothing!?

• At February 15, 2011, Alice wrote:

  I saw the SEGUE Human Transformer on TV and a TV reporter trying it out. I wouldn't ride it near a cliff! It's insane!

  Yeah, nowadays those dress-up youngsters in Harajuku doesn't like their photos being taken. This 'culture' has also spread to other countries like Malaysia.

• At February 15, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Hi Alice! Could you tell us more about Cos-Play in Malaysia? Do those into it dress as Japanese ANIME characters? Im very interested.

• At February 16, 2011, Alice wrote:

  Avi,

  Cosplay is "Made in Japan!"

  Here are a few articles on cosplay in Malaysia :

  http://ecentral.my/news/story.asp?file=/2008/8/17/tvnradio/1791923&sec=tvnradio

  http://rage.com.my/writeups/story.asp?file=/2010/12/22/otakuzone/20101221173549&sec=otakuzone

  http://www.thestar.com.my/metro/story.asp?sec=sarawak&file=/2010/11/17/sarawak/7440619

  http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2010/8/7/lifefocus/6752756&sec=lifefocus

• At February 18, 2011, Keiko wrote:

  Riding the segue was easier than I expected and also very fun. The staff told me that in Japan there is no permission for people to ride segue on roads or sidewalks. If there is permission by law in the future, maybe many people will use segue in Tsukuba. The pedestrian walkingway woulld be a convenient place to ride segues.

  Thank you for the information

• At February 20, 2011, midori wrote:

  Hi Avi

  This happened a little while ago but…

  I also experienced riding the Segway.

  At first it was scary but I enjoyed very much and was able to go fast and get used to the speed.

  I thought that it is also quite good fun in addition to being eco.

  I was sorry we could not see the costumes.

Plum Blossoms In Tsukuba - Feb. 4, 2009

Even in Japan's mild-wintered Kanto region, in most years, on February 4th, radio and television weathercasters can do nothing but complain about the inappropriately cold weather. This year, however, on that day, afternoon temperatures actually reached a toasty 14 degrees centigrade, an unusual case of the weather properly befitting the occasion, Risshun (立春), the first day of spring. And, as an extra treat, many of Tsukuba's plum blossoms (ume no hana), Japan's symbolic harbingers of spring, burst into bloom (perfectly on cue) on the very same day! These earliest blooming of Japan's popular flowering trees are also its most fragrant, and yesterday's warm breezes might have carried their thick, sweet, syrupy smell to your nose.

The traditional Japanese calendar is divided into 24 equal sections called SEKKI (節気), which creates an idealized, perfectly balanced four-seasoned year. The first day of spring is determined as the exact middle point between the winter solstice (冬至, toji) and the vernal equinox (春分の日、shunbun no hi), which usually has RISSHUN fall on February 4th. Subsequently, we have the first day of summer (Rikka, 立夏) on May 5th this year, that being the day equidistant from the spring equinox and the summer solstice (geshi, 夏至）. The other two seasonal turning points, the first day of autumn (risshuu, 立秋) and the first day of winter (rittou, 立冬), are determined in the same manner, creating four seasons, each ninety days long.

Plum blossoms In Tsukuba's Botanical Garden - Feb. 4, 2009

When Japan still followed its old calendar, Risshun, the first day of spring, was also the first day of the new year, the day on which all Japanese would grow one year older together. That is why on the evening of the previous day (February 3rd, this year), it is the tradition to eat the same number of soy beans as your age (sometimes plus one!), in what is called the SETSUBUN festival. Another name for the evening before RISSHUN was TOSHI NO YORU (歳の夜), which could be translated as the BIRTHDAY EVENING.

Of course, the Japanese seasonal divisions are not usually in accordance with meteoroloigical realities, as the coldest days of the year usually hit during the weeks AFTER the first day of spring, and in many parts of Japan the snow remains deep. There is even a famous expression and lyric to a well-known song which goes "HARU WA NA NOMI" (春は名のみ), which means "spring in name only". Despite the cold of early spring, for the Japanese it was the OCCASIONAL warm breeze, the stirring of certain plants and animals and the blooming of the plum blossoms (especially on snow covered branches), that is to say the little CHANGES and HINTS which gave hope and expectation of things to come that were what early spring was recognized as and appreciated for.

The blossoms of the plum tree (ume no ki), which has been bred into such numerous varieties since being brought to Japan more than 1000 years ago by returnees of missions to various Chinese dynastic courts, rival those of Japan's national flower, the cherry blossoms (sakura no hana) in terms of endearment in the hearts of the Japanese people. In fact, in the early Showa Period, there was a heated debate over which of the two WOULD become the national flower. The plum's strong points were not only that it was beautiful and highly fragrant and the first major blossom of the new year and thus symbol of spring's coming, praised so often by Japan's greatest classical poets. It was also a unique feature of the DAILY JAPANESE DIET in the form of UME BOSHI, or salted plums, as well as a popular ingredient for liquor and juice. It was probably the fact that plum blossoms were already the national flower of China (which they still are in Taiwan), and had been introduced to Japan from there that the UME lost out. Of course, there is also the matter of the more delicate cherry blossoms being more representative of the quintessential Japanese notion, MUJO, the fleeting nature of all things.

Despite having been brought in from abroad, the first western scientists to encounter the plum trees, including Philip Von Sebold, mistook them as being native to Japan. This could also be because, though a popular motive of Chinese art, there is no special tradition of viewing their flowers nor is there the custom of regularly eating their fruit.

For the Japanese, there is another interesting significance to the plum blossom: its connection to the passing of entrance examinations! The other day, just as I was mentioning plum blossoms to a friend of mine who has been driven to distraction by her son's upcoming exams, someone's cellphone rang. It was hers. A considerate friend had sent her a photo of a plum tree in bloom as a way of saying, "I hope your son is gonna pass!"

How did the ume no hana come to have such a connection to studies and the passing of tests? Well, the answer is simple: the plum tree was a favorite of SUGAWARA NO MICHIZANE, the great Heian Period poet, scholar and calligrapher who was unjustly expelled from the capital, died in exile, and was later enshrined as the GOD TENJIN, the patron god of scholars, poets, calligraphers and students. According to legend, when Michizane was leaving the capital on the road to exile in distant Dazaifu, Kyushu, it was only his plum tree that Michizane bade farewell with this, the most famous of all his poems.

KOCHI FUKABA NIOI OKOSE YO UME NO HANA
ARUJI NASHI TOTE HARU NA WASURESO 

(If the East wind blows this way, send your fragrance to me, o plum blossoms, 
even though I am no longer there).

Legend then says that the tree came flying all the way to Kyushu  to give the forlorn aristocrat solace to the end of his days (which was not very far off).

Plum Blossoms In Tsukuba's Woods

There are almost always plum trees, sometimes hundreds, at shrines dedicated to Michizane, or TENJIN, as he is called in deified form. In this season, millions of supplicants visit these shrines to pray for exam success, and appropriately the plum blossoms are opening, filling the sacred precincts with the fragrance of HOPE.

Luckily for those of us who live in Ibaraki, Mito, our prefectural capital is the home to one of the most famous places for enjoying plum blossoms, KAIRAKUEN. The ume festival there will begin toward the end of this month.

On an uncomfortably cold day like today, you might not believe me when I tell you that spring IS just around the corner. Sure, plenty of very cold ( and even snowy) days probably still lay ahead, and the March winds which blow off Mt Tsukuba ( the Tsukuba Oroshi) can be frosty and brutal ( for cyclists especially). But I`m not talking about the temperature. When I speak of spring I am thinking of all the VEGETATION, all the GREENERY which in the coming weeks will start emerging from the soil. Already this week I can sense all of that LIFE, chomping at the bit, getting ready to burst forth. You can almost hear it.

Knowing that there is is little time left to savor Tsukuba`s distinctive wild winterscapes, I took a long walk through the fields and woods near my house in Konda. It was not all just dried out reeds and branches

A new goshawks nest in the Konda Woods (Tsukuba)

I decided to start out by heading to the area above which I have often seen, in recent weeks, one of our neighborhood goshawks ( O-Taka) perched high up on some sort of communications tower. I thought that perhaps it was around  there that the majestic birds will be nesting this year.

Stepping into the woods in my neighborhood can sometimes be creepy. With all the owls, and the goshawks, there are often plenty of small animal and bird remains, the feather, fur and bones, which the birds of prey ( and later the scavengers) leave behind. Right away, I knew that the goshawks were active in that area. The route I had chosen was littered here and there by blotches of such leftovers. There were also plenty of hawk droppings.

Getting deeper into the forest, I often stopped to scan the canopy ( still thick in winter because of all the evergreens), in the hope of spotting a nest.  Just at the point which was probably furthest from any road ( in any direction), I found it, letting out a big WOW! Very impressive- amazing, even suddenly coming across it.

I then resumed my ground search in the general area around the nest.

Another view of the nest

About 20 meters east of the grand tree high atop which the goshawks had chosen to make their home, was a little slope- the remains of an ancient burial mound (kofun, 古墳). Still scouring the ground, I slowly proceded up it. What I found on top almost made me forget all about the nest- in fact it brought me back the original purpose of this hike- marvelling at the interesting withered vegetation of winter.

I found myself suddenly walking among what at first seemed to be the commonest of dried out reeds- but raising my eye-level to what would be my chest height, I found that the little ridge I was on was covered with one of the most beautiful features of the Japanese woods in winter- the dried out UBAYURI (姥ユリ), a type of wild lily ( with the scientific name  Cardiocrinum cordatum )

Of course, by this time of year these plant`s flowers had long disappeared. So what, you may ask, makes them so special.

Well, after their blossoms have fallen away, the fruit of this lily appears. Eventually, this dries, too, and opens up into three petal-like parts- which are connnected by what look like fine filaments. Really something special to look at. And how strange I thought that, though many types of lily flowers are spectacular, the UBAYURI`s blossoms are rather dull and plain ( though they ARE large!). That means in winter, without their white cone-like flowers, they are probably more attractive than they are in summer!

In fact, they are often added to winter flower arrangements, as symbols of the season.

Looking closely I could still find some of the lily seeds with had been blown out of their casing. These, too are remarkable to examine, as they look like very finely sliced flower bulbs. Since lilies are famous BULBS, some are surprised to hear that they also have seeds. Well, they do, and they are worth a close look.

The Ubayuri as it looks in winter after having released its seeds ( Tsukuba, Konda 2011)

Japan is considered to be something of a TREASURE HOUSE of lillies, with more than 10 indigenous species ( some of which were introduced to Europe in 1829 by the German physician Von Siebolt, who was at the Dutch trading post of Dejima, Nagasaki).

And though the Europeans and others took up these flowers with great enthusiasm for decorative purposes, in Japan ( and the rest of North-East Asia) lilies have not only been admired for their beauty and scent- they have also been EATEN.

The bulbs of various types of lily were an important source of starch for the ancient Japanese andYuri Ne ( lily bulbs) are still an important feature of Japanese special O-Sechi dishes eaten over the New Year holiday.

The dried out fruit of the UBAYURI- in Tsukuba (2011)

Besides the holiday season Lily bulbs are available at supermarkets and food cooperatives and can be prepared in a variety of ways. One variety in particular, the Ko Oniyuri, is cultivated for its bulb ( though some other varieties can also be eaten)

When cooked these bulbs look like pieces of GARLIC (also bulbs) when served, and their texture is also quite similar to the STINKY ROSE. Their flavor , however, is very subtle and starchy, and is influenced by the seasoning used ( as opposed to influencing the taste of everything else, as garlic does).

The ubayuri stand tall in one area of the woods

One very interesting thing that I learned after I got back from my walk and started doing a little research on the UBAYURI was that a larger type of the same lily, called the O-Ubayuri (Cardiocrinum cordatum var. glehnii) is one of the most important food sources for the Ainu people.

The O-Ubayuri grows mostly in Hokkaido and in the colder, snowier, Japan Sea side of Northern Honshu.

Two UBAYURI seeds stuck on a nearby leaf

For anyone interesting in the process used to make TUREP, which is the dish that the Ainu make of of the starch of the O-Ubayuri, have a look at this page:

http://www.frpac.or.jp/kodomo/html/bunka/tabemono2/tabemono_01_ooubayuri2.html

A staple food of the Ainu- TUREP- made from the O-Ubayuri

In a couple of weeks I plan on going back to that same spot and dig up a few of the bulbs and try to make some Japanese dishes with them.

I think I will give TUREP a try , too, using the smaller type of UBAYURI.

I will tell you how it goes!

Ubayuri as they look when blooming in summer

And I hope that before the bulbs are ready for the taking, I will be able to get back a coupek of more times to enjoy Tsukuba`s wonderful winter wilds.

For some pictures of Japan`s lillies IN SUMMER see:

http://www.bekkoame.ne.jp/~seiji-t/liliy.htm

Ainu with traditional facial tatoos digging up O- Ubayuri

2 Comments

• At February 22, 2011, Mamoru Shimizu wrote:

  Avi-san you are living quite a good place near township and near big area of plenty of nature both animals birds and wild flowers. You wrote one of your neighbor goshawks, that means there are few of them? Can you sight them with ease? Also there are owls? Is that possible to watch them in daytime or should I spend several hours in midnight preparing sleeping bag? I have never seen them so I wish I have opportunitie to watch or for owl case only to hear their voices.

  We call owl Fukuro or Mimizuku, zuku means tree-rabbit(木兎） in Chinese letter it was said their legs looked like those of rabbit and Mimi means ears because top feathers of owl resemble ears. 　Zuku→tuku⇒tsuku⇒Tsukuba, City administration made Owl as a symbol bird of Tsukuba-city in 2002.

  It sounded a little bit distorted, but owls are living in Tsukuba and they somehow intelligent and lovely birds. So I don’t mind. Please you never mind too!

  Yuri bulb think I ate in a Japanese Hotel in rural area many years ago but only slight impression of its taste like Kuwai(arrowhead). If they were sold in supermarket in certain time of year, I would like try to eat again thinking about history of Inu people.

• At February 22, 2011, Avi Landau wrote:

  Hello Mamoru-San!

  Yes, the area in Tsukuba in which I live IS quite fantastic in terms of nature and historical sites.

  There are two goshawks, a mating pair, a pair of SASHIBA, and numerous owls. If you would like to go owl watching, I would recommend starting just before dawn. I often see large owls- FUKURO, perched on top of utility poles at that time.

  Its excting to see them fly, silently away.

  But in the night time, especially in the late spring, the hooting of the owls is anything but quiet.

  It can keep you awake at night. Sometimes I want to open the window and shout- STOP MAKING ALL THAT RACKET- but I never do, not wanting to disturb their mating rites.

  The goshawks can be seen in the day time. They can often been seen soaring so high that they are barely visible.

  At other time, though you can never predict when that would be, they come VERY close overhead.

  Once, only once, one of the O-Taka perched for a short while on my veranda. A happy surprise!

Over the centuries, EBISU, or as he is popularly known as in the Kansai Area ( in Kyoto, Osaka and Hyogo Prefectures) EBE-SAN, has evolved from being what could be called the patron saint of fisherman, into a god of prosperity, popular among both merchants and farmers. He is now counted as one of the SHICHIFUKUJIN ( the SEVEN LUCKY GODS), a group of good-fortune-bearing deities often portrayed riding in a ship, which during the Edo Period (1600-1868) grew to be extremely popular as objects of worship ( and as good luck charms) among the common people.

Most Japanese adults can recognize EBISU from among these seven gods, without having his name written anywhere on him. He can be easilly identified by his distinctive features- the most important of which are a fish in his left hand and a fishing rod in his right.

Anyone who lives in Japan has seen his image- most probably on a can of Yebisu Beer ( which way back before the Japanese were familiar with beer, was given that auspicious name in order to help the Japanese public feel feel comforable with this western-style beverage).

So what, you may ask, does Ebisu, the Patron Saint of Business, have to teach us ( as I have suggested in the title of this post)?

Well, from reading about traditional views on Ebisu and what he symbolizes, I have come to realize that this ancient deity represents some very important TRADITIONAL JAPANESE VALUES- a way of thinking which seems to have been largely forgotten by today`s residents of the Japanese archipelago.

What I am talking about is the notion of profiting WITHOUT BEING TOO GREEDY. The idea of always remebering to leave something over for others- the poor, the birds, small animals, or nature itself.

How does Ebisu represent these old values?

 By carrying a rod and not a net!

In several texts I have found references to image of Ebisu representing the concept: USE THE ROD- NOT THE NET ( 釣りして網せず, tsurishite-ami sezu), which implies that we should only take what we need, or a little more- but not indiscriminately deplete the environment depriving other living things (and future generations of a means of survival)- or as it is said in Japanese: 暴利をむさぼらないで、bo-ri o musaboranai de!

If the Japanese (and other nations) do not heed this wordlessly expressed teaching of Ebisu, we might not be eating TUNA, or many other varieties of fish very much longer. The fisherman will not be able to carry on their way of life either ( some types of fish have already disappeared off the shores of Japan).

And as for Tsukuba, an area which was once targeted for development because of its abundance of unprofitable marshland and forest, will be COMPLETELY deforested ( besides a few parks) if the people do not speak out for the need to LEAVE SOME OF THE NATURAL LOCAL ECOSYSTEM IN TACT. I am not talking about the parks.  Small areas in which the birds,small mammals, and plants which require deeper forest as a habitat can survive should be set aside.

As I watched the bulldozers clear the last large remaining wooded tracts which stood north of the IIAS Shopping Mall, making room for more housing developments to be built by UR or DAIWA HOUSE, I could not help but think that NOW its the time for the Japanese to remember the old ways and the traditional teachings- and leave a little bit for the birds ( plants and animals).

I hope that the executives of these companies ( as well as others involved in the `development ' of Tsukuba), people who might even make offerings to EBISU, the God of Business Success, take a closer look at this deity, and think about what he really represents.

I have written more on EBISU here:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2011/11/ebisu-ko-%e3%81%88%e3%81%b3%e3%81%99%e8%ac%9b-alive-but-not-very-well-in-tsukuba/

A little time spent by the shores of Lake Kasumigaura this past summer, affected British born artist-musician Thomas Mayers in a BIG way. In fact, the experience of that day (August 5th to be exact), and the feelings and thoughts it evoked, led to a veritable creative explosion, the fruits of which- 44  new paintings, will be on display at the Takashi Saitoh Gallery near Ushiku Sation from September 29th through October 11th.

For a previous show at the same venue Mayers also made extensive and effective use of lake related motifs ( at that time with a focus on Lake Ushiku), to create some of his most memorable and beautiful works . Visitors to his upcoming exhibit ( it starts tomorrow!), will find that his newest works show a new edge- they are more intimate and emotional. And while the paintings are still  beautiful, they are also challenging and deeply thought provoking.

Plane Over The Lotus Fields - Thomas Mayers 2009

What exactly DID the artist encounter by Japan`s second largest lake on that steamy summer morning? What was it that stirred him to grapple with paper, oils, watercolor , spray paint, pencil and epoxy. What was it that kept him sleepless, reworking photos and etching on glass? Well,  according to Mayers, it was driving around and walking through the extensive lotus root fields just by the lake that filled him with all the conflicting emotions which then HAD TO BE WORKED OUT through his art. 

The scene he found in Tsuchiura`s Okijuku and Tamura neighborhoods, potentially one of idyllic beauty- lake, traditional hamlets, lotus flowers in bloom everywhere, was marred by the ubiquitous presence of scraggly nets, which virtually covered the landscape and stretched out to the horizon. And even more jarringly, upon closer observation, he found dangling in these nets, like strange fruit, scores of dead birds of various breed, size and color.

As an artist and a person, Thomas Mayers is extremely sensitive and ever questioning . Each time I meet him he seems to be in a continuous dialogue not only with me, but with the world around him. Carefully examining his latest works, it is clear to me that in the first place his trip down to Kasumigaura, an area whose  history he is deeply familiar with from the writings of  well-known Tsuchiura-based writer Junichi Saga ( Memories of Silk and Straw), brought to his mind certain iconic images of pre-war Tsuchiura- propellor powered sea planes and zeppelins, as well as an array of colorful local characters he had read about.

The harrowing site of the ugly nets and the unfortunate birds caught in them then obviously aroused another stream of images in the artist`s mind, especially those associated with the writings of novelist Shusaku Endo and Christian martyrs.

What we have then in this new show are 11 larger and 33 smaller works in which the artist has singularly compressed layers of local and PERSONAL history onto Japanese washi paper. Working from photos he had taken on THAT DAY he tried to capture the resonances each image created in his mind. And , instead of turning away from and pretending NOT TO SEE the ugliness and horror, as so many artists and photographers do, Mayers bravely works them into his pieces, focusing not only what he saw, but on what he heard, tasted ( in the air), and even what he smelled.Bravo!

All in all he has put together a daring, challenging and powerful exhibition.

http://www.saitoh-coffee.com/tsg/gallery.html

1 Comments

• At September 30, 2009, Dan Waldhoff wrote:

  My wife and I rallied two good friends to introduce to Thomas' art and were the first to sign the guest book when Takashi Saitoh Gallery opened yesterday. As Avi described, the works on display were intimate, emotional, challenging, deeply thought provoking - and Beautiful. Thomas mixes so much into small works - just the right size, thank you, for display in an apartment setting - that we left the gallery owning two new pieces to enjoy at home.

  Everyone with an interest in Japan will benefit from a reading of Junichi Saga's "Memories of Silk and Straw". Thanks to Thomas and Avi, I took my copy of another Saga authored book, "Memories of Wind and Water", off the book shelf and moved it to our only piece of furniture, a low all purpose table, where my wife will read it to come to a better understanding of her own history and culture. I will re-read it to readjust my perspectives on what I shouldn't take for grated.

Other “unusual” findings are a black elementary school bag (probably the same one I saw last summer), a karate uniform, bicycles and tricycles, and brand new frames for commendation certificate.

If you are going to stay in Japan for a short period of time and are planning to visit local secondhand shops, please look into the Umezono House first. It may not have a lot of stuff, but please remember that this shop is for a good cause ;-)

Asian Friendship Association’s information in Japanese
http://www.tsukuba-swc.or.jp/circle/ajia-yujyo-kai.html
The Umezono House’s new store hours http://blog.alientimes.org/2006/07/the-umezono-houses-new-store-hours/

A lotus flower (hasu no hana) blooming near Lake Kasumigaura

Symbolizing man’s ability to spiritually rise up out of the muck, no matter how deep it might be, the flowers of the lotus plant look like jewels dancing over a sea of sprawling, gently green leaves. I’ve heard it said that there is an audible popping noise when the petals open in the morning, but numerous failed attempts at actually hearing this sound have got me thinking that that is just an urban legend. Anyway, if you live in Tsukuba or Ibaraki it would be a shame if you didn’t take a drive down to Kasumigaura for some lotus viewing, as this prefecture is the nation’s largest grower.

Lotus flowers are often linked to mid-summer in the Japanese psyche, but lotus root farmers have been experimenting with different later-blooming varieties making it now possible to enjoy these remarkably beautiful and culturally significant flowers in the cooler autumn air.

According to the ancient chronicles of this area (Hitachi no Kuni Fudoki), a type of lotus was cultivated in ancient Ibaraki for medicinal purposes. Later, different varieties were introduced from China, with today’s most common types of lotus having been introduced from the continent during the Meiji Period (1868-1912).

There is an interesting etymology for the Japanese word for this plant, which is HASU (蓮). After the hasu’s flowers fall away, a hard honeycomb-shaped pod remains standing. Since this looks like a bee-hive (hachi no su, in Japanese), the entire plant is referred to with an abbreviated form of this, which is HA SU.

Besides the word hasu no hana (蓮の花), which is often used for the lotus flower itself, there is another expression used more often as Buddhist terminology: renge (蓮華). When you eat at a Chinese restaurant or ramen shop in Japan, you are given a thick curvy spoon which reminds the Japanese of the petals of the lotus flower. That is why these spoons are called CHIRI RENGE (literally, fallen lotus petals) in Japanese (though NOT in Chinese).

In Asian countries, especially India and China, every part of the lotus plant is eaten. In Japan the crunchy and beautiful roots are a very common ingredient, and the lotus seeds are made into sweets (though not very commonly eaten). As mentioned above, Ibaraki Prefecture is the number one producer at present, with much of the area around Lake Kasumigaura turned into lotus ponds. The use of nets, ostensibly to protect these fields, trap numerous birds which can make touring around the lake highly stressful. However, in this season, while the fields are full of greenery and the number of birds low in general (before the autumn migration), you are unlikely to find any trapped birds (the nets are also slowly coming down, the funding for them STOPPED, thanks to the efforts of the Kasumigaura Bird Rescue volunteers).

A typical feature of Tsuchiura`s lotus fields- hanging birds - dead or alive

One of the nearer places for lotus viewing is across from Red Lobster (I mean on the other side of Tsuchiura Gakuen line). I park at the used car dealer’s lot. Look out for lots of waterbirds (there are no nets here).

Lotus fieds in Kasumigaura-City ( July 2010) Can you make out the just visible form of the Ushiku Daibutsu (Great Buddha) across the lake?

For a journey into deep lotus land, you have to drive to Tsuchiura. Take the upper road over the city which takes you to the East side of the station.Turn left at the light and go straight until you see lotus fields on both sides of the road. When you reach a T-junction turn right and then make a left at the next traffic light (with the great tofu shop, TOFU-YA, 十二屋 , at the corner). Now you can enter the LOTUS WORLD of the Tamura (田村) and Okijuku (沖宿）. Have a nice drive. I guarantee it will be an enlightening experience.

Besides lots o’ lotuses, one thing you will notice is the ironically plastic lotuses around grave yards, left over after the O-Bon Festival ( which is in mid-August in Tsukuba).

Lotus fields in Tsuchiura- behind the Unagi restausant Nakayama- with Mt Tsukuba in the background (July 2010)

And for a song ( my original) inspired by the Japanese summer:

http://www.jamendo.com/en/track/12856

as recorded by the TenGooz