A Local Perspective on Life in Tsukuba, Ibaraki, Japan.

Sen (Hime) Sational! – The Sen Hime Festival (千姫まつり) in Mistukaido (Joso City) this Sunday May 12th

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By Avi Landau

Stop the presses! I’ve been so busy that I almost forgot! Its mid-May, and that means it’s just about time to head out to Tsukuba`s neighbor to the west, Mitsukaido, now part of Joso City (it took me so long to learn all the local place names, and then they went ahead and changed them all!) for the colorful Sen-Hime Festival!  Last year I enjoyed the unique procession of more than 100 women, warriors, and children, all clad in traditional costumes. The festival provides great photo opportunities, lots of music and also a chance to learn about the amazing life of Princess Sen, the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo Shogunate. And this year Joso City really needs your support (and would appreciate your business) since they suffered (and are still recovering from) a horrific flood that occurred last autumn.


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Sen was married off at a very tender age to the son of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (the second of the great unifiers of Japan) and  went off to live in in Osaka Castle. A few years later, this formidable stronghold was put under siege and razed, by none other than her own grandpa, Ieyasu. Not known as a man of tender heart, the victorious general had his son-in-law commit Hara-Kiri (ritual suicide) along with Sen’s famous mother-in-law. After remarriage, she found herself living another great castle –  Himeji-jo (in what is now Hyogo Prefecture), where she had two children. Her fortunes took a turn for the worse again when her son and husband took ill and passed away. After this tragedy she headed east, to to what now called the Kanto Region ( which is our neck of the woods) to shave her head and become a nun. One major project that she undertook was the reconstruction of the main hall of Mitsukaido`s Gugyouji Temple (弘経寺). In her will, Sen requested that a part of her ashes be interred at this temple, which must have been very close to her heart. 無題 (4)


There are many legends surrounding Sen-Hime`s life and she has often been portrayed in  TV dramas, plays, and novels. The city of Mitsukaido has turned their connection to the princess into an annual event, which will take place this year on Sunday the 14th. You can take TX to Moriya Station and then change over to the Joso Line to get to Mitsukaido-, or even better, drive out, due west on the Tsuchiura Gakuen Line. Then you will be able to combine a trip to the festival with some of the other major Mitsukaido sites including the spectacular Sakano House, and the Tenmangu and Hitokotonushi Shrines (these merit articles of their own). I know I’m not giving you much notice, but if you are free on Sunday, take your camera and head on out there. It will be on from 10 AM to 3 Pm. Have a SEN-(HIME)-SATIONAL Day!

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