The Old Miyamoto Residence ( Once a Soy Sauce Brewery and Shop) in Hojo, Tsukuba (北条の宮本家の店蔵)- visit it as part of the Autumn Festival at the Foot of Mt Tsukuba ( Oct. 29th, 30th, Nov. 3rd, 5th and 6th)
Mr Yamamoto giving a tour of his wife`s family`s old house ( and former shop)
It was a chance encounter that first brought me to the old Miyamoto House, a rustic old home which in the late 19th century functioned as a soy sauce factory and shop as well as a place of residence. This happened a few years ago, at a time when I could never have imagined that I would one day live within a five-minute walking distance from it- which I now do!
At the time, my parents and sister were in Japan, visitng from abroad, and I had taken them out to see the old villages at the foot of Mt Tsukuba. On a beautiful afternoon we were relaxing on the broad lawn-covered grounds of the old Hirasawa Government Office ( Hirasawa no Kanga), and admiring the impressive reconstructions which now stand upon the site. I think we were the only ones around.
Suddenly a car which was passing by on the adjacent road slowed to a stop. The driver, a cheery gentleman in youthful middle-age, got out of the car and walked briskly towards us. He then proceeded to ask us, with abundant enthusiasm, to follow him to his house, which he said he wanted to show us.
My parents, native New Yorkers, are not in the habit of going with strangers who approach them on the street and invite them home. I convinced them, however, that things were different here in Tsukuba and that it would be alright to go with him- and thats what we did.
It turned out that this friendly person was none other than Mr. Miyamoto, the man who had married into and was adopted by the Miyamoto Family which has long lived along the town of Hojo`s main commercial street. Their old house is one of the more interesting ( and rustic) examples of traditional architecture in an area very rich in such structures.
The tour Mr. Miyamoto gave us of the house ended up being one of the all-time highlights of my parents many visits to Japan.
The old Miyamoto Family store-front just after the earthquake of March 11th.
Over the next few weekends ( and the national holiday on Nov. 3rd) you too can visit there as part of an event called the Autumn Festival at the Foot of Mt Tsukuba ( Tsukubasan Roku Aki Mmatsuri - 筑波山麓秋祭り).
This wooden-planked side wall of the Miyamoto House runs all the way from the main commercial street ( sho-tengai) to the back moat (URABORI)
Though badly damaged in the earthquake of March 11th, as evidenced by the blue plastic sheets which keep water from leaking into the cracks, the Miyamoto house, or should I say the Miyamoto Family COMPOUND is still impressive. Examining it from the outside you can enjoy the beautiful old wooden walls which run from the main street all the way back to the URABORI irrigation canal. It is all the more striking when you find out that this was built at least as far back as 1847.
Entering through the main gate you can find the buidings, the old shop / residence and two old store-houses (kura) line the perimeters of the property while the central space is a garden in which you can appreciate the plants, flowers, grasses and fruits of the season. Directly ahead of you as you pass through the gate you will see an impressve, old zelkova tree with a large white Akita-Ken dog chained ( too shortly) nearby. This dog is very friendly and in need of affection, but be careful he chew on you ( as the holes in the shirt I wore on a recent visit testify).
The inside of this KURA ( storehouse) has been rennovated and is now used as a venue for various concerts
To the right of the main gate is the entrance to the Miyamoto`s living quarters, with dirts floors, wooden beams and dim lights, which is connected to the old shop. The old soy sauce store could be entered from the main street, and Miyamoto-San will show you the amazing old shutters and how they worked. You can also see an old American made cash register (made in 1920) and much more impressively, an old Japanese cash box from 1699. The wooden beams used to make this part of the building are awesome in their length and thickness.
Mrs. Miyamoto demonstrating how the old shutters work. These very rare features are called AGEH-TOH (揚戸).
This room is so secure, in fact, that once the Joyo Bank used it as it Hojo branch, while its real buiding was being was being renovated.
Also in the store front, you can see the Miyamoto`s collection of Meiji Period woodblock prints which also extremely interesting ( for me, at least).
(It is possible that only this store front will be open to the public during the autumn weekend event. In that case the shop can be entered directly from the main street)
The Miyamoto`s old cash box
The pride of the Miyamoto House is now one of the store-houses which has been converted by students of Tsukuba University into a small concert space. Mr. Miyamoto is especially proud of the fact that members of the Vienna and Berlin Philharmonics have played chamber music there. The next such event will be held in November ( though tickets are hard to come by for this small venue.
A street scene in Osaka( with some foreigners)- from the Miyamoto family print collection
An interesting feature of the house (and shop)- shutters which would be lowered each night
Some more recent antiques- an old tv and phonograph
The Miyamoto House is located on the main street of Hojo Town in Tsukuba City. It is just across the street from the new Joyo Bank building ( the Hojo Branch) as well as the interesting old house called Yanaka no Mori, which I have previously written about.
An old American cash register
Yanaka no Mori and an old Kimono shop nearby will also be open to the public this weekend and next. Tomorrow ( Saturday the 29th) there will also be some stands selling local products along the main commercail street ( called the Sho-ten Gai).
Some more of the prints in the Miyamoto collection
Tomorrow night there will also be an event at the Hirasawa no Kanga ( which I have mentioned above). There will be illumination and a classical music concert. If the weather is nice, it could turn out to be a magical evening.
And if you do come out to Hojo for the Miyamoto House, dont miss the interesting mansion just across the street. It will also be open to the public on weekends and holidays in November. Read about it here:
Another interesting old house along Hojo`s main commercial street- the SHO-TEN GAI
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Enjoy the Night View from the Top of Mt. Tsukuba, as rope-way (aerial lift line) and cable car (tram) services are extended up to 9 PM and 8 PM, respectively, through the end of the year (on weekends and holidays)
The glow of Tokyo off in the distance- as seen with a telephoto lens from the top of Mt. Tsukuba
In Japan, the passing of summer can be recognized in a way which is expressed by saying SORA GA TAKAKU NATTA (空が高くなった)- which directly translated means: the sky has gotten high- something which nearly all Japanese will understand in the same way as someone saying: autumn has come.
This is because along with the drop in temperatures that comes with the changing of seasons, there is also a precipitous drop in HUMIDITY ( from somewhere around 80 percent down to about 20 percent. This decrease in STEAMINESS, combined with the dust clearing action of seasonal winds increases visibility drastically- it really does seem as if the sky has grown taller AND longer. So while in the summer, there are many days in which Mt Tsukuba remains invisible even from a few kilometers away, in the autumn and winter, if there are no clouds, distant Mt Fuji can be seen regularly from Tsukuba ( especially at sunset), along with the mountains around Nikko to the north.
For those who do not care for the cold, these clear skies and the beautiful views they make possible offer a consolation ( however slight) for the coming of winter.
And in recognition of this seasonal phenmenon, the people who run the ropeway (aerial lift line) up to the Nyotai-San peak of Mt Tsukuba and the cable car (tram) which goes up to the Nantai-San peak will be working overtime so you can enjoy the special views which the moutain affords.
In the case of the ropeway this special service is offered from October. On Saturdays, Sundays, and National Holidays in November, and then on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and National Holidays in December, the last car will return to the Tsutsuji ga Oka Parking area at 9 pm ( and arrive there 6 minutes later).
As for the cable car ( tram), which departs and/or arrives at a station just to the west of the Mt. Tsukuba Shrine, extended service will begin from November and the last trams coming down from Nantai-San will leave at 8Pm
Even during the daylight hours the views from Mt Tsukuba are special in this very mountainous country- because when you look to the face the south the Kanto Plain extends out as far as the eye can see- an unusual sight indeed in Japan!
You can also have fun tring to spot your place of residence ( if you live in Tsukuba), and other local landmarks. You can easilly ( on a clear day) see Lake Kasumigaura, Mt Fuji, the Great Buddha of Ushiku ( Ushiku Daibutsu), and probably the skyscrapers of Tokyo off in the distance.
It gets even more beautiful if you stay on for sunset ( which will be getting earlier and earlier until the winter solistice) and watch the lights come on.
In my hometown- New York City, one of the most exciting xperiences is going to the top of the Empire State Building and watching the city and surrounding area light up. It is dazzling and OVERWHELMING.
The night view fron atop Mt. Tsukuba is beautiful in a very different way- it is the LACK OF LIGHT! You will surely be surprised by how BLACK the landscape remains- with Tokyo glowing out in the distance.
The stars should be spectacular,as well.
On the ride back down the lights in the cable car will be left off making the descent a big adventure for any kids you might be taking along with you ( and they sure will be excited up on top, too!
The full moon of October seen from the top of Mt. Tsukuba
If you dont have a car, they are buses from Tsukuba Center all the way to Tsutsuji ga Oka. with the last bus returning at 7:30 giving you plenty of time to savor the night view( on weekends and holidays).
The round trip cable car cost is 1,000 Yen for adults.
For more info (in Japanese) see: www.mt-tsukuba.com/
The Nantai-San Peak ( the male force) as seen from the Nyotai-san Peak ( the female)
I have also written about getting good views of Mt Fuji from Tsukuba here:
and here is a song I wrote appropriately called CLEAR SKIES, recorded by the TenGooz:
http://www.jamendo.com/en/track/12858
A Little on The History of Mt. Tsukuba`s Cable Car and Ropeway
Mt Tsukuba has long been famous in Japan, mainly because of being mentioned relatively often in the classic collection of poetry, The Manyoshu ( compiled in the 8th century). The little mountain ( a mere 877 meters high) appears 25 times as opposed to majestic Mt Fuji`s 13 times! It had also long been a place of pilgrimage and religious training.
In the late Edo Period, there were several inns and related establishments in the town of Hojo ( where I live) catering to pilgrims to the mountain. Business was slow, however, and by the 1860`s many of these had closed down.
All this changed back in the 1918 with the entrepreneur Junosuke Takayanagi, the son a poor farmer in what is now Namegata City ( to the east of present day Tsukuba) who grew to be a successful businessman and writer of self help books in Tokyo. On a visit to Mt Ikoma in the Kansai area, Takayanagi-San was enchanted by the European cable car system that took tourists up the mountain. He thought that such a system would be perfect for Mt Tsukuba.
Filled with enthusiasm he rushed back to Mito, the capital of Ibaraki prefecture to get some backing for his plan. The governor was all for the idea and so were several ready investors.
The problem was convincing the local people and the priest of the Mt Tsukuba Shrine. For them the mountain was sacred and the introduction of a cable car sacreligious.
It took some time, but eventually, somehow, the locals were won over to the plan. A company to carry out the construction was formed in 1923.
The going, however, was NOT easy. Large trees had to be felled and lots of dynamite had to be used to blast through rock. There were many injuries to workers, and at some points construction was halted.
By 1925 work was finally completed. And along with the completion of the rail line from Tsuchiura to Hojo ( the Tsukuba Testudo) there was a huge increase in the number of visitors to the top of the mountain. These people would be shuttled from the train staion to the cable car station by bus and then later possibly taxi.
During the Second World War, the cable car service was halted ( the metal was probably melted down for the war effort), and did not resume until 1954.
The ropeway ( aerial lift way) was then built in 1965 , doubling your choice of relaxing ways to the mountains peaks.
Still if you`ve got the time, I would recommend walking AT LEAST one-way.
Enjoy your night views and dont forget to dress warmly!
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Mums the Word! Chrysanthemums ( KIKU, 菊) in Japanese Culture and History (yet again!)
This year I tried my own hand at growing KIKU ( chrysanthemums)- October 25, 2011, Hojo
At my front door in Hojo, Tsukuba ( October 25th, 2011)
A closer look
Walking through Tsukuba`s old neighborhoods in October and November, you will very likely see some impressive chrysanthemums (kiku) displayed out by the front doors of homes and shops, their big, heavy looking yellow, white or pink blossoms sitting atop their slender leaf laden stems, often supported by round metal frames. You will also often find prize winning MUMS on display and even shows of chrysanthemum SCULPTURE ( kiku ningyo) throughout this season at venues such as shrines and parks.
Though they are NOT a native species, KIKU have not only come to be known as one of Japan`s two important representative flowers of autumn ( the other being HAGI- bush clover), but they have also become the symbol of Japan`s Imperial Family, an institution which in English is in fact often referred to as the Chrysanthemum Throne.
Believed by the ancient Chinese to possess special medicinal powers, specifically the ability to cleanse one of spiritual impurities and provide ETERNAL YOUTH, there is evidence suggesting that chysanthemums were introduced to Japan as early as the 5th century. There are, however, NO references to this flower in the first ( and perhaps greatest) of Japan`s poetry anthologies, the Manyoshu ( compiled in the 8th century).
In the Nara (710-794) and Heian (794- 1185) Periods the aristocrats of the Japanese Court adopted the Tang Chinese custom of drinking chrysanthemum wine and rubbing ones body with cotton swabs soaked with chrysanthemum dew on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month( for the Chinese, odd numbers are YANG- bright and positive. Nine is the highest odd numeral ,which would make 9/9 the luckiest day of the year- right when the mums were in bloom). This event was officially called the choyo no sekku （重陽の節句), one of the five seasonal change days which the Japanese took on from China. These customs are described by Sei Shonagon in her Pillow Book ( Makura no Soshi- 枕草子) and by Murasaki Shikibu, in her diary( both from the Heian Period).
Because of the fact that the chrysanthemum was so prestigious, with its Chinese lineage and its supposed purifying and life extending powers ( besides the beauty of the flower itself ! ) many of Japans noble families, from the Heian Period on, adopted it in one form or another into their family crests or onto their kimonos or furniture.
However, what makes the chrysanthemum especially symbolic of the Imperial Family of Japan, is the fact that the large round , yellow blossoms are reminiscent of THE SUN- the ancestor, according to Japanese mythology, in the form of AMATERASU, of the all Japanese Emperors.
![091111_1317~01[1]](http://blog.alientimes.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/091111_1317011-225x300.jpg)
The first recorded connection between the chryanthemum and the Imperial family, however, dates back only to the reign of the Emperor Ninmyo ( 仁明天皇 810-850), a grandson of the Emperor Kammu ( who had moved the capital to present day Kyoto). It is said that Emperor had a great fondness for yellow chrysanthemums and had them extensively planted on the palace grounds. He also liked to wear robes dyed yellow from these flowers.
The KIKU was adopted on the Imperial Family`s crest by the Emperor Gotoba ( 後鳥羽 1180-1239 ), who was also known to have a strong liking for these flowers.
It was not until 1926 ( Taisho 15), however, that the Chrysanthemum Seal became officially recognized.
During the Edo Period ( 1600-1868) the military class, continued ( or should I say revived ) the custom of celebrationg the 5 sekku, the seasonal changing days brought over from China in the Nara Period. Of course, the Chrysanthemum Day, the Choyo no Sekku on the 9th day of the ninth month, was among them.
The prestige of the KIKU filtered down to the masses during this time and chrysanthemum breeding became a popular activity. Japanese horticulturalists developed countless varieties, in various shapes and colors.
These growers formed associations which held displays and competitions of both just plain flowers and of scultures made utilizing them ( kiku ningyo). One of the most famous of these is held every year in Fukushima Prefecture`s Nihonmatsu City.
Of course, in poetry the KIKU came to be used extensively as a symbol of autumn and other things….. one of these being homosexual love ( the center of the blossom was thought to look like an anus!).
![091111_1326~01[1]](http://blog.alientimes.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/091111_1326011-225x300.jpg)
There are also about 20 smaller native wild varieties of chrysanthemum which bloom at various times of year ( and 8 in Ibaraki Prefecture!). And though not as spectacular as the giant show varieites, they are still beautiful and EDIBLE!
Another custom related to these native chrysanthemums is making KIKU-MAKURA ( mum pillows). Kiku petals are thoroughly dried out and stuffed into cases to make pillows. These were said to be good for headaches, and of course, cleansing away spiritual impurities (kegare).
The Kasama Kiku Matsuri ( 笠間の菊まつり）
If you would like to make an interesting day trip from Tsukuba which would include chrysanthemum viewing ( including some amazing sculptures), as well as pottery shopping or making, why not head up, by car or train, to Kasama, where the Kiku Matsuri ( Chrysanthemum Festival) will be held from Oct. 16th to Nov. 23rd.
Many of the more interesting events related to the festival will be held within the precincts of the Kasama Inari Shrine.
I will be there tomorrow and will post some pictures.
Here is some more info on how to get there by train:
http://www.japanican.com/japaninfo/Detail.aspx?BookID=10060&category=E
and the Kasama Inari Shrine`s English language web-site:
http://www.kasama.or.jp/english/index.html
Remember MUMS the word!
And in yellow, Asako Seo`s very tasty vingered KIKU ( Nov. 2011)
Kiku at The Ichinoya Yasaka Jinja Shrine (2010)
The worship hall of Tsukuba`s Ichinoya Yasaka Jinja with the chrysanthemum display on the left ( November 8, 2010) Print This Post
Check Out the Blossoms on Japan`s Tea Trees (Camellia sinensis)- the Cha no Hana, which are in bloom now- though not popular among flower lovers in Japan- they just might be YOUR cup of tea!
The flower of the tea tree ( October 23rd, 2011) in Tsukuba
Since its seeds were first brought over from China by the great priests Saicho and the Kukai ( in the 805 and 806, respectively), Camellia sinensis, the tea plant, has gone on to flourish throughout the Japanese archipelago- not because of its fruit, or its wood, but thanks to its leaves, from which is produced the beverage which has been such an important part of Japanese life, culture and economy ( Japan is the number ten producer of tea and the number 15 consumer in the world).
Though the northern limits of tea plant leaves as an agriculturally profitable crop are Murakami City in Niigata Prefecture and Daigo City in our very own Ibaraki Prefcture, the tree can be found growing as far north as the town of Furubira (古平町), in southern Hokkaido. And in most of Japan, even in areas where there are no major tea plantations, tea tree can be found growing wild.
Though you might not notice a tea tree in the wild through most of the year- it looks like any other bush- they are very easy to spot in autumn. This is because of the numerous little flowers, like tiny camellias ( to which they are related), which burst into bloom on them from October through December.
These blossoms are distinctive in that they are filled with a thick cluster of yellow stamen.
- A tea flower ( cha no hana) in bloom at the sight of the old Hanamuro Castle in Tsukuba
Since I always enjoy these flowers on autumn strolls ( yesterday on our walking tour we saw some impressive bushes), it has always puzzled me that they are not very well known at all among the Japanese ( or the Chinese< for that matter!).
This lack of recognition might be explained by a combination of reasons. First, it seems that lots of flowers on the trees mean lower quality tea ( vital nutrition is diverted from the leaves). Second, the flowers attract alot of insects ( as do the leaves- which is why organic, or insecticide tea is so rare). And third is the fact that the tea flowers are overshadowed by their relatives , the camellia (tsubaki) and sazanqua flowers, which are much larger and more beautifully balanced.
So keep your eye out for the tea tree. Like me, Im sure you`ll find it exciting to find it growing in the wild- something you probably expected.
You might come to appreciate these blossoms in the same way as the famous man ( the founder of the Tea Ceremony) who is mentioned in this Haiku by the poet Yamaguchi Sodoh (山口素堂ー1642-1716),which goes like this:
Cha no hana ya Rikyu ga me ni wa Yoshino Yama (茶の花や利休が目には吉野山)
which I translate as:
Flowers of the tea tree
In the eyes of Rikyu
like the cherry blossoms of Mt. Yoshino
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Take a Walk on Tsukuba`s WILD SIDE- a nature and history tour of some of the city`s old neighborhoods- Sunday morning October 23rd
One of the Tsukuba area`s mysterious LARGE-NOSED Dainichi Nyorai images- sits on a wooded hill in Hanamuro- this should be one of the highlights of this month`s walk
Tsukuba City might is now known as a center for the development of cutting edge technology, and many who visit here are only familiar with its, research institutes, institutions of higher learning, government apartment complexes, new housing developments and shopping malls.
Until about 40 years ago however, this area consisted of several very old agricultural hamlets set around nearly impassable forest and marshland.
Though the old villages remain, much of ( or should I say most of) the nature in the flatlands of Tsukuba has been paved over for development, or reigned in, in the form of parks. There still is, however, a relatively large tract of undeveloped wilds which exists within easy walking distance of the Tsukuba TX Terminal.
A rustically beautiful old ( no one is sure just when it was built) stairway
In the area that is now referred to as Nakane Konda-dai ( which runs from the old Sakura City Office north to the village of Kamizakai) there remains deep forest which provides shelter for a wide array of birds ( some of them very rare), mammals, and other creatures.
Around these wilds ( which can be explored for hours without hitting a road), are fascinating old neighborhoods which are throwbacks to another age- abounding in splendid farmhouses, mysterious sacred stones, rustic shrines and temples, and plenty of evidence of unique local customs and traditions.
The wilds of Konda, in Tsukuba City- with Mt. Tsukuba in the background
How, you may ask, did this area survive the onslaught of local development?Well, there are two reasons. One is the presence of numerous archaeolgical sites in the area- dating from each of Japan`s major historical periods.When the Science City was being planned, this area was set aside for further excavation and investigation. After, 20 years, however, these important archeological treasure-troves seemed to have been forgotten, and hungry developers were all set to cut down the trees and pour the concrete.The bulldozers never came , however, thanks mostly to the indefatiguable efforts of one woman- Kayoko Takahashi- who filmed work crews knocking down the nest of a rare goshawk ( O-Taka) after she had reported its existence to the authorites. Construction ( or should I say DESTRUCTION) was then put on temporary hold. Since then she has been campaigning tirelessly to preserve this area natural and historical heritage. It is still largely intact.
One thing that must be done as part of efforts to protect this area for future generation is to try to raise awareness by arranging for people to experience it first hand.
Now as regular events held by the Society to Protect Konda`s Ecosystem ( founded by Takahashi-San) nature and history walks take place every 4th Sunday of the month.,
The starting time is always 9AM in front of the gymnasium at the old Sakura Branch Office ( Kyu Sakura no Chosha).
Goshawk family in Konda, Tsukuba- if you are lucky you can see one (or more) on the walk
Depending on the month there are different guides for these walks- some focusing on plants, some on birds, some on insects.
When I am the guide, however, I like to spread the focus between history, local customs, and not only the wild flora and fauna, but the agricultural scenery as well.
And this month, on the 23rd, I WILL be your guide.
Please join us.
I am SURE you will enjoy this amazing area.
I will be taking you through the hamlets of Hanamuro, Higashi-Oka, and the forest of Konda.
Hope to see you there.
One of Tsukuba`s numerous images of KOBO DAISHI ( Kukai), the founder of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, the dominant sect in the old villages of Tsukuba
Karasu Uri (snake gourds)
the
the
the
Tracks of the Japanese hare ( no-usagi)
the
Ko Murasaki growing in Konda
The store-house of one of the grand old homes in the area
Wild baby yams growing near the ruins of Konda Castle
Drink from the spring waters at the foot of the old Konda Castle Ruin
There are plenty of praying mantis egg cases hanging from plants in the wild fields of Konda, Higashi-Oka, and Hanamuro
Tea flowers are now in bloom ( Hanamuro, Tsukuba)
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