TsukuBlog

A Local Perspective on Life in Tsukuba, Ibaraki, Japan.

Tsukuba`s Very Own (?) Nebuta Parade- At this weekend`s Matsuri Tsukuba Festival

Last year`s Nebuta procession as part of the Matsuri Tsukuba Festival

By Avi Landau

 

I have always thought it CURIOUSLY inappropriate that the center-piece of Tsukuba`s biggest festival, the Tsukuba Matsuri, should be a procession of Nebuta`s (the floats which are paraded in AOMORI PREFECTURE`s great Nebuta Matsuri), and wondered HOW MUCH IT ACTUALLY COST to transport these very large and delicate objects all the way from the Northern tip of Honshu. Two years ago, I entered the makeshift offices of the festival organizers with the intention of  finding out. Here is what happened when I asked.

Girls in Yukata at Matsuri Tsukuba

An uneasy silence filled the pre-fab shed set up in front of Capio Hall. The hapi-coat clad festival organizers shot nervous glances at each other.  The man I was addressing stroked the back of his tilted head, as he slowly and audibly drew air though his slightly parted teeth. It was clear that my question had hit a raw nerve. In fact, after many can-we’s and should-we’s had bounced back and forth meekly between those present, I was told that I could not be told an exact figure from their mouths. All they could say was that it required a VERY LARGE SUM to hire, transport and maintain the Nebuta Floats for the Matsuri Tsukuba Festival ( I was later able to confirm that the amount was approximately 200,000 dollars ! ).

This weekend  ( August 28th and 29th, 2010 ) will be the 13th time that these world famous NEBUTA floats (just a few of them) have been transported down to Tsukuba by truck from Aomori City. The Nebuta Festival held there is one of Japan’s most celebrated and exciting matsuris, and its long history attests to its deep connection to the Tohoku Region and its people. It is WELL worth a special trip to Aomori (even from abroad!) in the beginning of August to witness the passion of the procession and the eerie beauty of the giant illuminated floats which feature UKIYOE-like paintings of warriors, animals, sumo wrestlers, etc…. here is the ORIGINAL Nebuta`s home page:

http://www.nebuta.or.jp/

What I would really like to know is why Tsukuba City would have to lay out so much dough to bring the Nebutas here for our festival. I could understand it if it were for one year, but EVERY YEAR? The Nebutas have no connection at all to Tsukuba, Ibaraki, or Kanto. Why should we have the LEFT-OVERS of someone else’s festival, no matter how famous?  I think there are enough history, legends and traditions around these parts to provide material for creating a new and ORIGINAL Matsuri Tsukuba which native Ibarakians and new and foreign residents could all relate to. It WOULD take some IMAGINATION and DARING. That, however, might be a little difficult to find.

The origins of the Tsukuba Nebuta connection are also shrouded in mystery and perhaps intrigue. The group responsible for having started bringing down the floats eleven years ago is the Junior Chamber International Tsukuba Branch .When I asked them to tell me the story they claimed it would take 2 hours to do so and then quickly explained that some big-shot in their organization knew (was connected with) someone up in Aomori. Well, I think we would all agree that JCI is not representative of Tsukuba and shouldn’t be the ones to decide how the festival budget should be spent. I would also not be surprised if someone were making a bundle off our matsuri.

You CAN get a look at some of Tsukuba`s OWN traditional matsuris, if you get to the Tsuchiura Gakuen Road ( I recommend the corner on the western side of Jusco) well before the Nebuta procession ( around 5pm). The portable shrines ( O-Mikoshi), floats, dragons, etc. from Tsukuba`s old neighborhoods make a couple of loops up and down the road, while representatives of each of these hamlets strut their stuff. These are all quite interesting, and its too bad they have to play second fiddle!

Most of the people who come to enjoy Matsuri Tsukuba (and there are surprisingly many!) probably don’t even catch a glance of the famous floats (they are usually wrapped in plastic). That is because of the shape which the festival has taken. Yes, I’m talking about the actual shape of the festival if viewed on a map or from above. Just like Tsukuba University, the festival has grown very long and slender. At its most crowded it becomes like too much water being forced through a narrow gorge, and in total there are only 3 or 4 outlets where the water (the crowd) can run off into other directions. On humid days it is quite tiring to navigate the entire length of the festival and then back again. With all the different performance (mostly third rate) venues set up and ALL THE FOOD stalls up on the main pedestrian path, the layout of the festival is not conducive to viewing the Nebutas. I say scrap it and spend the money in better ways!

One tip for those who plan on visiting Matsuri Tsukuba next year is DON’T EAT BREAKFAST, or even dinner the night before, for that matter! From the DAYZ TOWN building all the way to the Expo Center it is wall-to-wall food (with some stalls for scooping up live fish thrown in here and there!)! Just how much can a person eat? And can someone give me a clue as to how to choose which yakisoba stand to buy from out of the dozens you find every few meters (and that goes for okonomiyaki, takoyaki, taiyaki, jagabata, etc., as well). Two foreign foods which have become almost as common are Indian curry and kebabs. Every once in a while you come across a rare find. For example, I was happy to find a stall serving Tunisian food. A special feature of the Tsukuba hawkers scene is the presence of many amateurs, especially foreigners who serve up their countries’ dishes.

Though Matsuri Tsukuba is NOT one of the best festivals in the Kanto Area, it is still fun to be out with the crowd, see all the colorful yukata, probably run into some old friends on the narrow path, and of course EAT. It is very surprising and interesting to note how many young girls dress up in traditional wear. Their presence provides a real lift to the festival’s atmosphere

And now…… having thought about it for a long time, I realize that many TRADITIONAL LOCAL FESTIVAL, for example the Gion Festivals so popular in this area  for centuries, were only IMITATIONS of the original, first held in Kyoto.

So….. I guess we COULD say that-  in Japan, borrowing another city`s festival IS traditional!

UPDATE:

For the past few days this years`s (2010) Nebutas could be seen being readied for this weekend`s festivities.So here is a preview of some of the floats you will see this year:

This mouse, is being originally made for the Matsuri Tsukuba by students. Why a mouse? Because this year is The Year of The Mouse- That`s why!

I have also written this year of how fetsivals called Nebuta Matsuri were held in summer in various parts of Japan with the aim of helping to shrug off the lethargy brought on by the summer heat. These festivals, it seems, evolved out of a ritual called NEMURI NAGASHI ( washing away sleepiness) which was often perfomed on the morning of the 7th day of the 7th month ( according to the old calendar)- Tanabata. This involved wiping ones eyes with the flower of the silk tree, which is called the NEMU NO KI ( or the NEBU NO KI)- the sleep tree. The flower, which has absorbed THE SLEEP from the eyes, was then cast away into a stream, river, or the sea.

You can read more about it here:

http://blog.alientimes.org/2010/07/the-nemu-no-ki-silk-tree-and-the-nebuta-matsuri-a-connecetion-between-one-of-japans-most-spectacular-flowering-trees-of-summer-and-its-greatest-summer-festival/



One Comment

  • Dan Waldhoff says:

    Aloha Avi,

    I motorcycled to Aomori to see the REAL Nebuta Matsuri on 3 occasions, each time pitching a tent close to where the big, nasty floats were housed. They wore the same vinyl wrappers there but the authenticity of the event and the floats was never in question. I have no idea why they are leased here but don’t doubt there is a reason that would not satisfy me even with a full and forthright explanation. I don’t expect to ever hear one.

    On my fourth visit there I found my way to the opposite side of the bay and found another Nebuta Matsuri under way at the Yokohama Kaigan. There they grow scallops – but can not export same leading to overwhelming surplusses. It was all you could eat all day long for two days and free. That might be different now and I’ll never know. The first time I went I had a kilometer of beach to myself and the third time I went I had to sleep next to my Harley in a parking lot. I was awakened in the morning by dozers moving rubbish to each end of the beautiful beach to burn on open fires.

    Back to Tsukuba – the Nebuta connection is, as you say, shrouded in mystery and worth a lot of ¥¥¥ to someone. As “participatory” matsuri go I recommend a visit to Toyota in Aichi. The route of the matsuri goes through much of the central part of town and the participants are hundreds of clubs which choreograph and costume to a theme, “Oiden”. They have a song with lyrics but each club may change or abuse them as required to be unique. Costuming is brilliant. The event lasts for hours and is compelling – until the noise shuts down the auditory system of a normal human being. Go.

    So, I’ll miss the Tsukuba Matsuri again this year but might pick up something to eat on the way to shop if I need anything from Yamaya or Jusco. I suppose someone somewhere is keeping track of the numbers of visitors to the Tsukuba Matsuri. If and when people tire of the Nebuta floats and stop coming we might see a change. I hope so – it is boring to me after so many years.

    The question, “How can 100 guys selling chocolate covered bananas make a living at the same site?” has an answer – they are the Roma of Japan. They split their profits and share what is left of their bananas with the coven that sells yaki soba. And they all do pretty well at it!

    Dan