TsukuBlog A Local Perspective on Life in Tsukuba, Ibaraki, Japan.

30Jun/08Off

Romanization of Asian Language Writing Systems

When it comes to languages that use script different from the Roman alphabet used in many European languages, a perennial problem is how to best represent the sounds of those languages in “romaji,” as romanized script is called here in Japan. Of course, if foreigners take the time to learn the local language and its writing system, then they can communicate directly with that. Needless to say, that is not a realistic option for those who can’t devote years of study, and even then, one still needs to at least begin with a romanized representation of the words one is learning. So, how were the various systems of romanization developed, and which is to be preferred?

With respect to the Japanese language, if a foreigner unfamiliar with Japanese sees a word such as “syukai,” how likely is it he or she will pronounce it “shukai?” About the same chance as the proverbial “snowball in hell,” since what usually comes out is something like “sai-yu-kai.” “Syu” makes sense from the standpoint of the Japanese phonetic system, where it is written as a combination of “し” (pronounced “shi” but sometimes written as “si,” another source of confusion) and “ゆ” (“yu”). In combined form, then, it comes out as “しゅ”, which logically could be romanized as “syu.” The problem is, of course, that a foreigner will likely think this represents two separate syllables, “sy” and “u,” and pronounce it accordingly. Thus, from that standpoint, “shu” is clearly a better choice.

So the question that really needs to be addressed is, “For whom is the romanization being produced?” Presumably, it is for the foreigner who hasn’t learned that language and needs a romanized writing system to be able to at least come close to correctly pronouncing unfamiliar words and names. It would seem, then, that the principle for deciding on a romanization system should be just that — namely, what system will make it easiest for such foreigners to most closely approach a proper pronunciation. In reality, however, this seemingly obvious principle is often overridden by all sorts of other competing factors, including cultural pride and politics.

Romanized Japanese is relatively easy to deal with, when compared to certain other Asian languages. Some, of course, are inherently difficult to represent in a romanized system, as various indicators need to be added to express such things as tones and other linguistic aspects not found in western languages (the tonal language of Chinese being a prime example of that).

The linguistic turmoil going on in Korea is an interesting example of how political considerations have trumped the pragmatic need of a romanization system designed for foreigners. Prior to the “turn of the century,” you would fly into “Kimpo” airport and perhaps take a trip to the southern city of “Pusan” to eat some “kimchi.” According to the newly imposed romanization system, however, to do the exact same thing today, you fly into “Gimpo” airport and take a trip to “Busan” to eat “gimchi!”

No, the Koreans have not suddenly changed the way they pronounce these words, and from what I, a foreigner who has only superficially studied Korean, can tell from what I actually hear them say, it sure sounds like the old system accurately portrayed these and numerous other words, whereas the new system at first glance just seems “nuts.” The Korean linguists who developed the new system, however, were not “nuts,” and there actually are logical reasons behind the need for a new system. It seems that the rationale presented is that in this age of the internet, the former “McCune-Reischauer” system caused too many problems. What was needed was a system that used only the ordinary English letters required by the internet and also could have a one-to-one correspondence between a certain Korean sound and its romanized equivalent. (In other words, two distinct Korean sounds shouldn’t look the same in romanization.)

While that is certainly a necessary property of modern romanized writing systems, in the case of Korea, it seems that politics also played a major role. The name of the former system, McCune-Reischauer, gives a hint of what is involved here. The new system, by the way, is called the “Sejong system,” and is named after the famous King who first commissioned scholars to come up with the ingenious “hangul” writing system over 500 years ago.

You’ll no doubt recognize the name “Reischauer,” as he was the American ambassador to Japan following WWII, among with many other notable achievements. His parents had come to Japan as missionaries, and so he was born and raised in Japan. Being fluent in Japanese and familiar with the culture, he was of immense importance in U.S.-Japan relations during and after the war. During the summer of 1937, Edwin Reischauer was on his way to China to research a paper he was writing in Japan, but the turmoil that took place in China at that time forced him to lay over in Korea for a couple of months.

The Japanese, who had ruled Korea since 1910, had come up with their own romanization system for use in Korean, but it had numerous problems, and so Reischauer worked together with a missionary named George McCune to devise a better system that could more accurately represent Korean sounds. That system was formally adopted in 1939, and it served well for many years, until the issue of the internet arose. The problem was that it included “diacritic” marks on some vowels to distinguish them, but these could not be used for web and email addresses. What was needed was a system that used only regular alphabet letters that would also have a one-to-one correspondence with specific sounds represented in hangul letters. (Similar issues exist in Japanese, with the lengthening of certain vowel sounds. For instance, the “o’s” in “Tokyo” are technically lengthened “o’s” that can be more accurately written as “Tōkyō.” But “ō” is not “internet-friendly.” It could be written with “oo” or “oh” to indicate this distinction, but most people deem it unimportant, and so “Tokyo” it is.)

So, are such distinctions in Korean so important that a slightly modified McCune-Reischauer system couldn’t be devised? While the subtleties of Korean pronunciation are beyond my expertise, it would certainly seem that the wholesale changes brought about by the new “Sejong system” involve a whole lot more than just making the system internet friendly. When I asked a friend of mine who is a long-term resident of Korea about this issue, he said, “When the decision to change the romanization was made, the foreign community was locked out of the process and a group of Korean linguists made all the decisions. Of course, Koreans resented the McCune-Reischauer system because of its Japanese connections and because it was done by foreigners.”

Just like any other sovereign people, the Koreans are, of course, free to make their own system whatever they want it to be. Just because native English speakers pronounce alphabet letters a certain way doesn’t mean that everybody has to follow suit. After all, are we going to dictate to the French that they shouldn’t spell “Bordeaux” the way they do and should instead change it to “English-friendly” “Bordoe?” Obviously not.

There is, however, a huge difference between that and the situation in Korea. Not only is there the issue of foreigners getting very confused by the difference between what the romanized spellings would seem to indicate and the way Koreans actually pronounce those words, but also, many Koreans are equally confused about English pronunciation because they are trying to sound out words based on the Korean romanization they are learning. The problems are so pervasive that there is active discussion going on about trying to revise the system again.

Frankly, I’ll take the problems with “romaji” we have here in Japan to the issues the Koreans face. Somehow, the linguistic issues surrounding “taking a trip from Tukuba to Tōkyō to eat some susi” don’t seem nearly as daunting as “flying into Gimpo Airport and taking a trip to Busan for some Gimchi.” Nevertheless, it would be nice to be consistent here in Japan as well, and “take a trip from Tsukuba to Tokyo to eat some sushi!”

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30Jun/08Off

Star Wars Celebration Japan

Star Wars Celebration Japan
When: July 19 (Sat) to July 21 (Mon), 2008
Venue: Makuhari Messe, Chiba Prefecture

Star Wars Celebration Japan promises to be one of the biggest international Celebrations ever. Please join us at the Makuhari-Messe in Chiba, near Tokyo, for three unforgettable days of Star Wars entertainment, events, exhibits, and fan fun, July 19-21, 2008.

Tickets:
Yoda 3-Day Premium Ticket: 22,000yen
Vader 1-Day Premium Ticket; 7,500yen
Standard 3-Day Adult Ticket: 10,000yen
Standard 3-Day Child (6 to 12 years old) Ticket: 5,000yen
Standard 1-Day Adult Ticket: 4,000yen
Standard 1-Day Child Ticket: 2,000yen

Star Wars Celebration Japan website:
http://www.celebrationjapan.jp/ (Japanese)
http://www.celebrationjapan.com/cj/ (English)

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29Jun/08Off

Enjoy the Moss, Get Rid of the Mould!

Most of the days during Japan's month long rainy season (tsuyu), are overcast and damp, even when there is no actual precipitation. When it IS raining, it is as if your town or city has been transported into the shadowy depths of a thick, wet , forest. It can stay like that for days. For this reason, Japan is a veritable paradise for MOSS (koke苔), which thrives in such conditions. Taking a June stroll, umbrella in hand, within the precincts of some old shrine or temple is like an in-depth tour of the WORLD OF GREEN, with  mosses of varying degrees of verdure growing on stones, tree trunks, or the ground, forming delightful combinations.

It is clear that the darkness of the rainy season and the deep warm shades of moss have had a huge impact on Japanese aesthetics. For example, compare the Buddhist temples or clothes from the brighter lands of India or Thailand, with those of Japan. There are often bright, bold or shimmery colors and surfaces, which are needed so as not to be washed out by the brightness of the sun. In shadowy Japan, different , darker ,colors, more natural and earthy ,came to be utilized and loved. Moss and moss green have been an important part of this sensibility. This can be seen most clearly in Japanese gardening and landscaping, the cultivation of miniature trees (bonsai) and in fabric design.

There are several temples which are actually famous for their moss gardens, including Saiho-Ji and Gio-ji in Kyoto. Nearer to Tsukuba is Myoho-Ji in Kamakura. (Did you know that JR trains can be taken directly to Kamakura from Tsuchiura or Ushiku Stations during the summer?) These are nationally renowned Koke-dera (moss temples), but it is by no means necessary to leave our city to partake in the pleasures of moss viewing. As I mentioned above, the sacred grove of any shrine or the grounds of any temple will do, especially on rainy days.

Unfortunately, the same conditions which allow moss to thrive are favored by various types of mould and mildew and foreigners who come to live in Japan are driven to despair by their relentless proliferation. Walls, books, photos, are all common victims. Once I discovered that a pair of white sneakers I wanted to wear had turned black with mould! This is  not just a nuisance, but a health hazard as well.

Of course, this is a problem for the Japanese, too, but since their ancestors have had to deal with the problem for millennia, there are plenty of bits  of folk knowledge passed down from generation to generation which help  to cope.

The most important point to remember is good ventilation. Make sure that the air in a particular room does not stagnate too long. Whenever the sun DOES shine you might want to let its rays do their work on anything you are worried might get mouldy. Remember: the light of day is the best disinfectant!

A more recently developed trick for dealing with mold was introduced to me by Harumi Takaya, who is always a great source of information about traditional life in Tsukuba. This is the use of baking soda. For example, baking soda mixed in with your laundry detergent at a ratio of 3 to 1 will prevent your laundry from getting moldy (if like most Japanese, you don't have a dryer). Putting a mixture of baking soda and water into a spray bottle and spritzing it on the walls etc... is also a good idea.

Don't let the darkness and the rain get you down! Go out and explore Japans endless SHADES OF GREEN! For the summer months THESE are the Emerald Isles!

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26Jun/08Off

Where did all the butter go?

If you have tried to buy butter recently, you might be puzzled why some stores’ butter section has suddenly disappeared! At other stores there is a chink of space remaining but you would be very lucky to actually find any butter for sale. What happened?

It is a long and complicated story but basically a few years ago consumers in Japan weren’t buying enough milk. Dairy farmers were forced to throw away thousands of liters of milk every day. You might think they could have just cut back on production, but a dairy cow MUST be milked every day or she will get sick – hence the oversupply of milk. To solve the problem farmers cut back on the amount of cows they kept.

Fast forward a few years and now dairy products are in higher demand – especially butter and cheese. Farmers who once reduced their herds are now being asked to produce more. However, there are two big problems: firstly, it takes over two years for a dairy cow to mature and begin producing milk. That means it is going to be at least another 18 months before mature herds are ready. Secondly, farmers cannot afford to increase the number of cows they keep because of rising grain prices. The sale of milk from each cow simply
doesn’t cover the cost of feed and other production expenses.

If that weren’t enough, there is the world market to be considered.
Australia has always been a big exporter of butter, cheese and
other dairy products but the ongoing drought has hit that market hard.
And the Chinese market is demanding more and more dairy products.

So if you like baking, my best advice is to check the stores away from
the center of Tsukuba. Depending on the timing you can find butter in
some Kasumi Stores, Kadoya Supermarket, etc. I’ve also been told that
various stores in Tsuchiura and Ushiku are more likely to have stock.
Finally, try substituting oil for butter in baking – you might find that the
taste is just about the same and healthier as well!

[This article was originally written for the June issue of the Alien Times.]

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26Jun/08Off

Time To Go Through The Wringer Again!

By Avi Landau

 

Historically, the summer months were a time in which the inhabitants of the Japanese isles were susceptible to sickness and epidemics. The month-long rainy season often led to flooding, which was then followed by almost two months of intense heat and humidity. Perfect conditions for the incubation and spread of deadly bacteria. In modern times, government sponsorship of vaccination programs, and the very successful propagation of the rules of hygiene among the general public have pretty much put an end to the health hazards of summer. The early Japanese state had no recourse to modern medicine. It did, however, introduce a nation-wide government sponsored program with the aim of protecting the health of the populace living under its domain. In the Nara Period (710-794), the Japanese Court proclaimed that each year, two official purification rites be held for the physical and spiritual welfare of its subjects. One was to be held in June (夏越の祓、nagoshi no harae) and the other in December (年越の祓toshikoshi no harae).

The summer rites often, but not always, featured the use of a large ring, made of reeds or straw, through which those seeking purification would walk. The belief in the purifying powers of these vertical rings derives from a story in Japanese mythology in which the God Susanoo no Mikoto advises a poor man who has  helped him, to weave a ring of reeds and wear it around his waist to protect himself from an imminent epidemic. The man survived, and the ring's reputation born. The passing-through-the-ring ceremony is usually called CHINOWA KUGURI (茅の輪くぐり), but in Ibaraki you will hear WAKUGURI more often.

You have a chance to witness or undergo this ancient rite this coming Saturday, June 29th at the Kaba-San Shrine (加波山神社, kabasan Jinja), just past Mt. Tsukuba, near Makabe. Things will get underway at 11:00 with a traditional sword drawing ritual (as you might know, swords have great powers of exorcism and purification in Japan). The  sword cuts through the air with a haunting WHOOSH, scaring off any lingering evil. The procession through the ring is then  led by the priest and a conch blower (the sound of this large shell is also known for its exorcistic powers!) and 2 men holding lion masks. After passing through the ring three times, the priest begins a purification ritual (o-harai),which takes about 30 minutes and culminates in the dispensing of sacred sake(omiki)to all the participants. Later  papers with the names and ages of worshippers written on them  are released into a stream near the summit of Mt. Kaba.

There are actually 3 shrines called kaba-San Jinja at present. The first one you come to after turning off the main road also has a ring set up,but there is no special ceremony(this shrine should also be visited if you make the trip to Mt Kaba.The Shrine I am discussing in the present article is a little further up the road,just next to the small Tobbaco Shrine.It CANT be missed as it is big, red and gaudy. In fact I cant recall having seen such a shrine in Japan. The decorative motifs are much more reminiscent of Singapore, a mix of Indian and Chinese. The ring itself also suggests that this custom might have Pacific island origins.

Mt. Kaba itself is well worth a visit anytime, for its nature, shrines and for its historical significance. You might not associate Ibaraki with political radicalism, but in fact, this region has long been associated with violent HOT-HEADS going all the way back to the rebel Taira no Masakado, the man who ruled this very area for 2 years as a virtually independent domain before being captured and beheaded in the late 10th century. Almost a thousand years later, in 1884, revolutionary activists inspired by the assassination of the Russian Tsar conceived a plan to strike at Japanese politicians and business leaders with home-made bombs. Their plan to set off bombs at a meeting in Utsunomiya in Tochigi was discovered and the plotters headed for the hills. In this case they fled to Mt Kaba. Battles ensued with a number of casualties on both sides.

If you have no time for chinowa kuguri this weekend, you will have a second chance, right here in Tsukuba, at the end of next month. See my Alien Times article: The Ancient Rite Of Chinowa-Kuguri at Tsukuba's Hie Shrine.

If you are travelling around Japan this summer and visit some shrines, it is very likely that you will see these rings of straw set up on the path leading to the main hall. Now you will know what they are, and what they are for. Remember, the ring gives six whole months of protection, so why not go through it?

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